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Old 01-25-2016, 10:51 PM   #15
TJ91
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Thanks alot man
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by TooCool5 View Post
Nice, you must be a mechanical Houdini. Did you loosen the tank straps at all to get a little more space to work?
Did not have to loosen fuel tank straps at all , but I did loosen the screw on the other end of the charcoal canister( Canister is slotted on that end ) to give me a little more working space
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:51 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by TJ91 View Post
What is the symptoms of having a bad purge or vent sylenoid?
I have a cel that comes off and on and the power is serverely reduced regardless if the cel is on or off. Its hit or miss if I get full power out of my LLT. Was convinced it was the chains but curious if it may be something else
The vent solenoid (P0449) never gave me any power reduced issues but the purge solenoid malfunction can cause those symptoms . Purge solenoid is located under the hood .
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:31 AM   #18
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Odd question.

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Originally Posted by JJPlace1 View Post
The vent solenoid (P0449) never gave me any power reduced issues but the purge solenoid malfunction can cause those symptoms . Purge solenoid is located under the hood .
This might be an odd question but do you have small hands or large hands?

My car was high jacked by my son today so I cant go out in the garage right now and pull the tire.

I would rather invest the time in beer and swear words than pay the dealer $729.00 bucks to replace a part that I think was defective to start with.

I intend to pull the rear wheel today and see if I can get my hand in there.

Your the first person I saw to say it can be done. I used to be a mechanic back in the late 90's but I am right on the fence on this one. As I get older I find it easier just to pay the piper.

Anyway thanks for your input.
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:48 PM   #19
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Just wondering. Did you ever get to fix this issue your self? I am planning on attempting this since I have the same P0449 code on my 2010 RS. Doesn't hurt to try.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:58 PM   #20
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Just did it friday. I will say that you can get your hand in there without dropping the subframe, but it is 100 times easier if you do. I tried the not dropping method, and it was miserable, I could barely get past my forearm. Eventually just removed the 4 subframe bolts and lower strut bolt on the passenger side. Used my floor jack to support the cradle. It was like night and day.
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:12 PM   #21
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Ok i see. Was it because your arm wasnt long or slim enough? just wondering since I am planning on doing this really soon.

is this the part you got? 19329627-solenoid

Either way ill rather do what will take care of the job. Did you have to get it realigned?
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:38 PM   #22
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Yea, that's the part number. It's not so much getting your arm in there, it's being able to remove the piece from the metal tab as well as undoing the spring clamp. If yours is anywhere as stuck as mine was, there was no room for me to have my hand and tool in there at the same time. Didn't take it in to be realigned.
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:58 PM   #23
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po449 dam you GM.......
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizzer View Post
This might be an odd question but do you have small hands or large hands?

My car was high jacked by my son today so I cant go out in the garage right now and pull the tire.

I would rather invest the time in beer and swear words than pay the dealer $729.00 bucks to replace a part that I think was defective to start with.

I intend to pull the rear wheel today and see if I can get my hand in there.

Your the first person I saw to say it can be done. I used to be a mechanic back in the late 90's but I am right on the fence on this one. As I get older I find it easier just to pay the piper.

Anyway thanks for your input.
I am not a small person , I am 6'2" and weigh 250lbs. and my hands I guess are regular/large size .
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoCamaro10 View Post
Yea, that's the part number. It's not so much getting your arm in there, it's being able to remove the piece from the metal tab as well as undoing the spring clamp. If yours is anywhere as stuck as mine was, there was no room for me to have my hand and tool in there at the same time. Didn't take it in to be realigned.
To get it off the metal tab all you need is a long flat tip screwdriver , just stick it in between the tab and valve and twist it . Came right off .
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Previous Vehicles

1970 Impala 2D 350/300
1972 Buick GS 350
1967 Pontiac Firebird 326
1969 Chevelle SS 396/375 I really miss this one
1966 Chevelle SS 396/350
1978 Plymouth Fury 440
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1987 VW Scirocco
1992 Ford Taurus V6
1996 Dodge Intrepid
2002 Dodge Intrepid
2002 Mercedes ML500
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:54 AM   #26
mwend
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Another victim of the P0449

Getting the CEL P0449 in my 2010 V6 for the past 2 weeks. I've cleared it and checked everything I could thing of. CEL came back. It has 41K miles. Guess its my time to have some fun. I have the part but its going to the dealer to see if I can get it covered. I know, I'm going to be out $100 for them to read the code and I'll end up doing the repair myself.
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:57 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by mwend View Post
Getting the CEL P0449 in my 2010 V6 for the past 2 weeks. I've cleared it and checked everything I could thing of. CEL came back. It has 41K miles. Guess its my time to have some fun. I have the part but its going to the dealer to see if I can get it covered. I know, I'm going to be out $100 for them to read the code and I'll end up doing the repair myself.
same boat now. damnit only 59xxx miles
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:26 AM   #28
mwend
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Just took care of my P0449 on my 2010 V6 and happy to say all is well.

I removed the rear tires, removed the exhaust, and dropped only the right side of the sub frame. After 3.0 hrs the bad solenoid was out. I did take pictures and can do a write up if anyone is interested. (removing the exhaust took more time than anything, putting it back on was a trip too)

Even changed the rear diff fluid while I was in there..
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