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Old 02-21-2014, 10:33 PM   #43
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I just put tr7ix in based on my tuners recommendation. that pic above looks a lot like what happened to my first engine (stock)...don't need that again lol.
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:41 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by realcanuk View Post
This is the result of the wrong plugs on with a boosted LS3....



So that's the consensus that a spark plug did that?
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:01 AM   #45
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So that's the consensus that a spark plug did that?
This happened on a dyno. Things were controlled as far as air/fuel, timing, etc. The plugs were overlooked and it was the opinion of the tuner that the plugs caused detonation which caused the carnage.
It was a shop test car which was getting a new engine either way and they were just trying to see how much the LS3 could take.
Its a shame they overlooked proper plug selection and never really found out the limit of the stock engine, but $#@# happens.

I don't really get into spark plug discussions, because almost no one uses the plugs I do, or agrees with my choice. I use only Brisk Silver Tips. Silver is a better conductor and the main benefit is a silver tip will melt before getting hot enough to cause detonation. This is a fantastic safety feature of silver tips, as the pictures I posted shows.
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:27 AM   #46
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Non projected tip plug like a B8EF for your power. If your tuner has issues tuning them then get a new tuner or run the 8iX iridium plugs.
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:28 AM   #47
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So on a forged ls3, 9.5:1 cr, 12-14lbs of boost on 93octane and methanol, I will be using br7.
Is this right?
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:04 AM   #48
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So on a forged ls3, 9.5:1 cr, 12-14lbs of boost on 93octane and methanol, I will be using br7.
Is this right?
Yes good choice
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:16 AM   #49
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Looks to me it was just a mechanical failure. That also sucks and also happens.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:19 AM   #50
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So what would be the difference at my power level between a BR7EF and a B8EFS? (Assuming my build will reach 800-850rwhp)
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:00 PM   #51
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NGK's gave me a low rpm light throttle miss after a couple hundred miles.

Brisk GR12S plugs worked good for me, would use them again but I wanted to try an iridium plug. At 13 psi and a 125 shot plug choice is critical. The Denso IT's have been perfect.

I'll sell you a set of Brisk GR12S plugs for $40 shipped if you want them. Have maybe 1000 miles on them at the most. They are gapped at .040, you would want to regap them to about .028 for your boost, or I can do that if you want. I was using them at lower boost, and then decided they were too cold so I went with a warmer plug. I then upped the boost and added spray and decided to go with cold Denso iridiums, so I don't need these anymore.

I also have a set of Denso IT-22's I'll sell for $60 shipped. Again, with nitrous and boost they worked but for safety I wanted to go another step colder so I don't need these anymore. Have maybe 500 miles on them.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:01 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdoogle6969 View Post
So what would be the difference at my power level between a BR7EF and a B8EFS? (Assuming my build will reach 800-850rwhp)
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...tnumberkey.pdf

The main difference is the -8 plug will be a step colder, little better safeguard against detonation.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:32 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by mcdoogle6969 View Post
So what would be the difference at my power level between a BR7EF and a B8EFS? (Assuming my build will reach 800-850rwhp)
Too hot of a plug in a combo will melt itself and might melt your motor with it. Too cold will carbon foul, especially with a lot of idling and low rpm driving with no WOT blasts. A rich tune will help it foul quicker. Most seem to start stepping colder from factory plug heat range. In reality you should put in the coldest plug you think you can run without fouling, then step warmer if it does foul. I'd start with an 8 heat range if I were you. Most likely a 7 or an 8 will be fine for your setup. The Brisk GR12S is an NGK8 range and it's non projected tip. The Denso IT-22's are an NGK 7 heat range and are also non projected tip.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:55 AM   #54
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Which would be best out of these for me? TR6 or BR6EF, Im at 600 rwhp/9.5psi with 10:1 & does alot of roun town d/d, tried TR7IX's that came with whipple but after a while started to foul, ran ok but took alot to start. Currently using the ZR1's which seem great but obviously not right choice going by what I've read on forums.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:34 AM   #55
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I'd switch to the BR6EF or 7. Get away from the projected tip on boost.

I favor to go colder than most do and only go a step hotter if I foul one out. I'm running the 7's on E85 at 10 psi.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:40 AM   #56
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So you were at 11 psi and 715 RWHP on -6 projected tip plugs? Pretty good chance they were turning into glow plugs and caused detonation. I would have used at least a 7 heat range, if the meth shot was small and/or the fuel was less than 93 octane I would have used an 8.

Another thing to add for anyone reading......a forged motor won't last any longer or hold any more power than the stock motor if the plugs are too hot. It creates detonation (preignition to be exact) that timing retard by the computer's knock sensor cannot help.
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