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Old 01-12-2018, 01:24 AM   #1
William.23
 
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*UPDATE/SOLVED* EXTREMELY HOT COOLANT Temps

Hey guys, so I checked out my overflow reservoir about 3 days ago - and it was DRY - Looked like... dirt / dusty-ish.. Anyways, I was going to do a radiator flush. Now even more of a reason ??

Anyways, I had seen my coolant temperature going to about 220's - mid 230's -- (Maybe more...but I just noticed the few times the past 2-3 months I felt my engine wayyy too hot)

Now that I had flushed and filled with new coolant - the temperatures are going up to 235's - 240's easy now.. (No hard driving...literally driving about 9 blocks down (no traffic)).

--Info on how I did the coolant-- I put in distilled water first - did the whole thing release the petcock to drain it (release cap to increase drain pressure).
Refilled it - with the distilled -- Let it run for about 15+ minutes with distilled water and it took forever to reach 230.

Let it sit.... Drained it again (Made sure to bleed it so it wouldn't have bubbles).

Closed petcock - Filled with 50/50 dexcool - about the same as I had drained out the other times.

Turn car on --- took forever to reach 200...right? Now as I'm going down the last 4 blocks to my place (It goes up to 248....as I get to my place and I turned that b**** off asap...) *I heard the fans turn on around 240 ish i think..[Don't think I want to risk trying that again xd?]*

Drive to my place from where I departed is about 10 minutes...


What's going on =/???

Could I have caused a problem by barely noticing I've been possibly driving without coolant for the past 2-3 months(Such as head gasket; please god no...nooo!) but yeah...

Any and all help would be appreciated, asap. <3 (its my only car u.u)


I hear it could possibly be:

Eroded / Obstructed Radiator Core
Fan Connections (electrical / don't work)
Water Pump

Worst case scenario's -- Head Gasket and others..

Last edited by William.23; 01-20-2018 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:17 AM   #2
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With the temp jumping up so fast it makes me think there is an air pocket in the cooling system. With the car off and cool, pull the coolant line off of the top of the motor (the little bleeder by the head) and fill through the radiator until straight fluid comes out there. Most likely you will see a lot of air rush out first.
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Old 01-12-2018, 05:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC View Post
With the temp jumping up so fast it makes me think there is an air pocket in the cooling system. With the car off and cool, pull the coolant line off of the top of the motor (the little bleeder by the head) and fill through the radiator until straight fluid comes out there. Most likely you will see a lot of air rush out first.
Hey Kelly, thanks for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it.

Ok, so i checked just now and the level of coolant is 3/4 of the way below the MIN sign now, and I haven't ran it as of last night (since i posted).


Also I'm not quite sure which one you mean, but if you could say which picture # that'd help me out (;

So with that being said, what should I do now?

Fill straight through radiator you mean the one with the cap that says 140kPA 20PSI?

Sorry if anything sounds redundant.
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:02 AM   #4
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If you get convinced you have filled it completely and still have an issue, add sticky thermostat to the list.

Bad water pump is low on the list. Water pumps show in worn bearings and leaky seals, but still keep pumping water.

You just flushed the radiator, so it's not likely a problem.

You mentioned the fans came on, so doesn't seem likely to be an issue either.

Not the overheating problem, but just me, 6-7 year old car, I might change all the hoses, thermostat, and maybe water pump pre-emptively depending on mileage. For a high mileage engine, belts and idlers & tension pulleys too, while you're under the hood. Nobody seems to remember the idlers and tensioners. They have sealed bearings and wear out like anything else. One of my past trucks had an LS engine that made 225,000 with me and the idlers were worn out by 135,000 miles.
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC View Post
With the temp jumping up so fast it makes me think there is an air pocket in the cooling system. With the car off and cool, pull the coolant line off of the top of the motor (the little bleeder by the head) and fill through the radiator until straight fluid comes out there. Most likely you will see a lot of air rush out first.
Completely agree - temp rising super fast like that is likely an air pocket. I haven't used Kelly's method for bleeding, but you can give that a try. Alternatively, I run the engine with the cap off as it's coming up to temp from cold and that usually gets the air out fine.
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Old 01-13-2018, 05:30 PM   #6
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Ok, before anything else -- Just checked again today

1) The Coolant is still at 3/4's below the MIN on the Coolant stick (Cool).

2) Haven't driven my Car since I posted about the Heat issue 2 days ago (SO maybe that rules out a possible leak? Seeing as the coolant is still the 3/4's below MIN)

3) My car is @ 53679 miles (I've done regular oil changes, maintained it as good as possible; doing the coolant change/flush for example - Shldve done it at 3-4 year mark..)

4) I remember when it was on Summer Days my fans would turn on at around 220's degrees F. Now the fans turn/ed on when the car was over 235 degrees F.

5) I still don't understand Kelly's method; could someone direct as to which picture it is in / what hose/line?

** IF you can fill in the answers in between questions; that'd be great **

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spurshot View Post
If you get convinced you have filled it completely and still have an issue, add sticky thermostat to the list.

Bad water pump is low on the list. Water pumps show in worn bearings and leaky seals, but still keep pumping water.

You just flushed the radiator, so it's not likely a problem.

You mentioned the fans came on, so doesn't seem likely to be an issue either.

Not the overheating problem, but just me, 6-7 year old car, I might change all the hoses, thermostat, and maybe water pump pre-emptively depending on mileage. For a high mileage engine, belts and idlers & tension pulleys too, while you're under the hood. Nobody seems to remember the idlers and tensioners. They have sealed bearings and wear out like anything else. One of my past trucks had an LS engine that made 225,000 with me and the idlers were worn out by 135,000 miles.
--- Hey, thanks for taking the time to reply.

--- 1) So maybe sticky thermostat (If releasing all air, and still continues; check).

--- 2) I'm at 53679 miles (Should probably do all the hoses, thermo and water pump probably before 60k?
And if thermo is bad, ASAP?)


--- 3) I was thinking of changing out the serpentine belt eventually possibly before 60k as well; Idlers, tensioner pulleys I'll look into it or have it inspected; but I think mine is in good condition still [If not; replace by/before 60k as well]?

--- 4) I think the fans used to come on a lot sooner than the 235+; is there something that was possibly changed ( I had my car taken to the dealership about a year ago because of MAFS; not sure if it was tuned or something??)


Quote:
Originally Posted by acammer View Post
Completely agree - temp rising super fast like that is likely an air pocket. I haven't used Kelly's method for bleeding, but you can give that a try. Alternatively, I run the engine with the cap off as it's coming up to temp from cold and that usually gets the air out fine.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, as well.



--------- Now what do I do?:

1) Kelly's Method **If you can please describe which hose to pull from the pics;
I took pics of all the radiator points**


2) acammer's Method **From Cold Start --> to Getting Temps up to ( ?? ) with no Cap on**

3) Pray to baby jesus?


Thank you all so much for your time and helping me figure this out; I appreciate you.
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Old 01-13-2018, 06:47 PM   #7
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That comment about the small coolant line is on V8s.

On yours or really any engine you can bleed air out this way... start engine cold with the rad cap off. Have a helper hold rpms at about 1500-2000 ish for about 5+ minutes. All while you are topping off the cooling system.

You need that water pump speed to get the flow up while filling the cooling system. This is how the service manual says to do it. Keep filling it with the revs up. When there is a big rush, the stat just opened. Fill bottle to cold level. Recheck rad and overflow after a few drives.

If you just fill a radiator/cooling system at idle. There is so little flow, very easy to leave a big air pocket in there.

Temps jumping around like that can be a sign of big air pocket.
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Old 01-13-2018, 07:48 PM   #8
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Hey Russell, thanks for taking the time to reply.

Ok, so essentially; Take off rad Cap -> Turn on Engine -> Have helper hold rpms 1500 - 2000 for about 5 minutes. -> Top off cooling system *where rad cap was taken off* --> Continue to fill with revs @1500 - 2000 --> "big rush" = sucks in all the coolant at once? *means thermo opened up*. --> Do I still keep filling after the rush / or turn off?

Now -- "fill bottle to cold level" That's within the 5ish minute frame, right?

After all this is done, turn off car *especially if it gets over 200 F?* (Since Rad Cap is off)

Then after car is off - *Check level of fluid in radiator; how much should it have?put cap back on - check coolant level make sure it's at cold Min.

Finally, take it out for a drive --> Check HOT level on overflow --> Let it cool down, check radiator level *how much fluid should be in there?* & then check if overflow is at over above MIN COLD.


Is that how I'm understanding it?

Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That comment about the small coolant line is on V8s.

On yours or really any engine you can bleed air out this way... start engine cold with the rad cap off. Have a helper hold rpms at about 1500-2000 ish for about 5+ minutes. All while you are topping off the cooling system.

You need that water pump speed to get the flow up while filling the cooling system. This is how the service manual says to do it. Keep filling it with the revs up. When there is a big rush, the stat just opened. Fill bottle to cold level. Recheck rad and overflow after a few drives.

If you just fill a radiator/cooling system at idle. There is so little flow, very easy to leave a big air pocket in there.

Temps jumping around like that can be a sign of big air pocket.
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:08 AM   #9
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Bumpity :P -- Need to know if that's how it's supposed to be done - Don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks again all for your input and time.
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William.23 View Post
Bumpity :P -- Need to know if that's how it's supposed to be done - Don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks again all for your input and time.
Yes, that procedure will work. You actually can clean out the coolant tank before hand and fill to cold mark before you start to top of system/engine running. That way the moment you put the cap on the radiator (FULL) the external tank will be ready and in service.

Instead of physically removing the overflow tank, you can flush it out with the water hose, then use a wet/dry vacuum to remove water/residue, using a small suction hose. I picked up clear 3/8" ID hose at the local hardware store to use with the shop vacuum. 2 or 3 feet will do it. Then partially fill it with a 50% mix of water/coolant.

I see your car is a 2011. How long did you go before the first coolant flush? time and mileage? First flush ever?

Oh when you do the drain the radiator then add distilled water deal, you have to repeat many times to do a proper flush, like 5-7 times. Draining the radiator might remove 30-40% of the total coolant volume. Still coolant in the engine, hoses, and heater core. There are better ways to "flush the coolant system".

Oh and it goes without saying, immediately wash off any coolant or mixture that splashes. It will damage/remove paint with time.
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
That comment about the small coolant line is on V8s.
Whoops! I did not catch that this was a V6. My apologies!!
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Old 01-15-2018, 10:46 PM   #12
William.23
 
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Hey Polizzio thanks for taking the time to reply.



Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post
Yes, that procedure will work. You actually can clean out the coolant tank before hand and fill to cold mark before you start to top of system/engine running. That way the moment you put the cap on the radiator (FULL) the external tank will be ready and in service.
By Radiator being full what do you mean? After it sucks/big rush?

Instead of physically removing the overflow tank, you can flush it out with the water hose, then use a wet/dry vacuum to remove water/residue, using a small suction hose. I picked up clear 3/8" ID hose at the local hardware store to use with the shop vacuum. 2 or 3 feet will do it. Then partially fill it with a 50% mix of water/coolant.
Interesting idea, thanks for that as well.

I see your car is a 2011. How long did you go before the first coolant flush? time and mileage? First flush ever?
Yes one and only owner. This is actually my first coolant flush @ about 53k miles. Time about 4 days ago :P.

Oh when you do the drain the radiator then add distilled water deal, you have to repeat many times to do a proper flush, like 5-7 times. Draining the radiator might remove 30-40% of the total coolant volume. Still coolant in the engine, hoses, and heater core. There are better ways to "flush the coolant system".
What better ways are you referring to? Recommend me just take it to a Pep Boys or some shit (maybe next time xD?)
-- SO far the method I posted up top you said that procedure will work.
-- AND the one you're mentioning.


Oh and it goes without saying, immediately wash off any coolant or mixture that splashes. It will damage/remove paint with time.
Yes, I did that ASAP; also so no animals come by and accidentally drink/eat it!!


Thanks again for your time, I'll go ahead and try the first method out I posted.

Then if not -- I'll wait and do the entire way you mention it.


If anyone has any other ideas or comments please feel free to share them; I greatly appreciate them!


Thanks again all for the help and feedback
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Old 01-15-2018, 10:48 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC View Post
Whoops! I did not catch that this was a V6. My apologies!!
It's alright Kelly! I don't have any info on the engine on my profile -- I'm jelly of those V8's u.u but hey.. I stil love my car.
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:20 PM   #14
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the most common issue is improper burping. i dont/didnt know how to do it properly myself so i took my car to the dealer and had them do it when i requested the thermostat, ect sensonr, and coolant flush at 70K miles. (its at 75K right now)

Also, If the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is bad, it will do all kinds of crazy shit. (Ask me how i know. I just had it replaced at 70K miles )


My experience with the bad ect sensor:

Car "took forever for to warmup" Id let the car idle on a cold start for up to 10 minutes and it was barely at 170. I live in los angeles. The most severe cold starts here are in 50 degree weather. So obviously something was not right. Even though the engine is already at operating temperature, a bad ECT sensor will sometimes send an inaccurate reading to confuse the ECU into thinking the engine has not yet reached (or prematurely reached) operating temp and will cause all kinds of shit to go nuts. Fan's coming on at odd times, temperature gauge reading incorrectly, pinging (ECU adjusts timing depending on readings from ECT and HO2 sensors. If ECT is sending a signal that is not expected when comparing the signal from the HO2, timing/spark and fuel delivery will not be what it needs to be) Lastly, a bad ETC will eventually start to kill your HO2 sensors if left uncorrected for an extended period of time

I replaced bank 1 sensor 1 because of a CEL in november.

you may want to add that (ECT sensor) to your list of things to check. Its a $15 fix

you can also use (if you have one) an ir temperature sensor and point it to the coolant temperature sensor and see what the temp it there.
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