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Old 07-26-2021, 01:15 PM   #1
U LUZE
 
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Interchiller or Port The Blower

Hey guys....

I know some have done the interchiller. Those that have, are you glad you went with it and having success? I've talked to a local shop who does a lot of LS tuning and mods and said that the few that he's seen the owners removed them shortly after due to not liking it or having issues.

Secondly, biggest bang for the buck? Do the above, or port the blower and go with a 102mm throttle body and a larger intake?
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Old 07-26-2021, 01:49 PM   #2
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You're in MN, not the desert. I would run corn, port, 102 mm and HEX. You should be fine in MN unless you're dragging repeatedly for hours on a day like today.
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Old 07-26-2021, 02:03 PM   #3
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I have been looking at the killerchiller and can't decide to jump or not. I would like to know others thoughts if it is worth it for a street car. I am already running E85, cam and other bolt ons but with a non ported blower.
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Old 07-26-2021, 04:07 PM   #4
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You're in MN, not the desert. I would run corn, port, 102 mm and HEX. You should be fine in MN unless you're dragging repeatedly for hours on a day like today.
It gets hot and humid here. Already on E85.
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Old 07-26-2021, 04:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by U LUZE View Post
It gets hot and humid here. Already on E85.
I know. Been in the 90's here with 70' dew point. But that's 5-10 days a tear, less in MN.

You don't even have a HEX. A quality one can lower your temps many degrees...that ought to be enough in our climate...excepting the rare 95' 70 dew point days. As stated, if you're going to be shredding asphalt on those days for hours each day, get an IC. The bring ice for the sc w/ the hood left open in the shade. Otherwise, what has already been posted.
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by JB'sZL1 View Post
I know. Been in the 90's here with 70' dew point. But that's 5-10 days a tear, less in MN.

You don't even have a HEX. A quality one can lower your temps many degrees...that ought to be enough in our climate...excepting the rare 95' 70 dew point days. As stated, if you're going to be shredding asphalt on those days for hours each day, get an IC. The bring ice for the sc w/ the hood left open in the shade. Otherwise, what has already been posted.
I'm bracket racing so the temps can vary from time trials to eliminations. Unfortunately I've isn't an option as I'll never know how long between runs and how many. I hear you but the 3600+ DA days are from July through August with 2-4 races a month. Really need to find a way to build more consistency or enough HP to hold a couple numbers. 😕
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22.5% Crank Pulley - Roto-Fab CAI w/ Big Gulp-
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:54 PM   #7
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Without a doubt the Chiller works well on the Gen 5 ZL1 I do not have it on my ZL1 but a friend that lives in Miami have one on his ZL1 and it works great, the only thing I noticed that might be a problem at the track is that it keeps the supercharger so cool that it is dripping water from condensation, but everything is cool this is why Dodge is doing this from the factory.
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Old 07-31-2021, 07:11 AM   #8
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I have a Killer Chiller and absolutely love it. I live in South Georgia so it’s always hot here. My IATs are consistently 30*-40* below ambient temp outside. Even on muggy nights at the track the highest IAT was 87* at the end of the run and by the time I got back to the staging lane they were back to mid 50s. Before the Chiller the IAT would be 150+ all night.

I have a drag solenoid which shuts off AC to the cabin so the refrigerant doesn't flow thru the evaporator thus it does not drip out of the bottom of the car onto the track.

Chillers are definately the best cooling mod you can get. I deleted my HX to get the coldest temps possible. It provides boost weather all year round.
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Last edited by Shodown; 07-31-2021 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 07-31-2021, 07:37 AM   #9
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Here are some pics for reference.
Attached Images
    
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Old 07-31-2021, 10:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shodown View Post
I have a Killer Chiller and absolutely love it. I live in South Georgia so it’s always hot here. My IATs are consistently 30*-40* below ambient temp outside. Even on muggy nights at the track the highest IAT was 87* at the end of the run and by the time I got back to the staging lane they were back to mid 50s. Before the Chiller the IAT would be 150+ all night.

I have a drag solenoid which shuts off AC to the cabin so the refrigerant doesn't flow thru the evaporator thus it does not drip out of the bottom of the car onto the track.

Chillers are definately the best cooling mod you can get. I deleted my HX to get the coldest temps possible. It provides boost weather all year round.
You have a super nice setup.
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Old 07-31-2021, 03:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shodown View Post
Here are some pics for reference.
have you had any issues with leaks. I've been looking into getting a chiller, I have emailed killer chiller but have not got a response back.
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Old 07-31-2021, 04:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Walter View Post
You have a super nice setup.
Thank you.
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Old 07-31-2021, 04:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tartagliazl1 View Post
have you had any issues with leaks. I've been looking into getting a chiller, I have emailed killer chiller but have not got a response back.
Yes, the high pressure t fitting leaked at first. The kit comes with a fancy AN t fitting but it’s garbage. I replaced it with a 3 way barbed fitting from Oreilly’s for $7 and it works like a champ. No more leaks.

You likely won’t get an email response. He’s terrible at that. Call his shop. He usually answers and if he doesn't he’s pretty good about calling back.
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Old 07-31-2021, 04:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shodown View Post
Yes, the high pressure t fitting leaked at first. The kit comes with a fancy AN t fitting but it’s garbage. I replaced it with a 3 way barbed fitting from Oreilly’s for $7 and it works like a champ. No more leaks.

You likely won’t get an email response. He’s terrible at that. Call his shop. He usually answers and if he doesn't he’s pretty good about calling back.
sounds good. i just have to decide what company to go with. killer vs active vs forced inductions they are the most expensive at $1700 now. im spinning my little blower pretty hard and the iat climb fast
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22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.
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