Finally...twin turbos for my LFX

[Tajefe Couple]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

Man I hope so. Btw I got the axles in and they don't slide all the way either, about the same as yours. I feel like if I put socket and ratchet on it it would pull through but I'm not trying that until I put things back together. I'll try to double check the part numbers tomorrow.

Thanks for looking. It felt like they could probably be tightened most of the way. The old axles I have seem to be tapered toward the inside. I just think by eyeballing it's not going to go on far enough. Suppose it could tighten down with the 199 lbs. needed. Still not sure but think I probably need the below.

Part Info
Part No. 13580684
Part Description HUB, Rear Wheel
Replaced By 13589510
Manufacturer GM.

I've tried to figure out what the hub we have does fit. I can't find anything for fitment on that p/n just when I call they say it's correct but could be wrong and they will check. They are suppose to let me know hopefully this week and if it turns out to be a different hub will let you know.

[JantzenOKC]

These things were a pain in my ass. I should have just put the subframe back in the car and did them that way but I'm stubborn. All done now though.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by tajefe

Thanks for looking. It felt like they could probably be tightened most of the way. The old axles I have seem to be tapered toward the inside. I just think by eyeballing it's not going to go on far enough. Suppose it could tighten down with the 199 lbs. needed. Still not sure but think I probably need the below.

Part Info
Part No. 13580684
Part Description HUB, Rear Wheel
Replaced By 13589510
Manufacturer GM.

I've tried to figure out what the hub we have does fit. I can't find anything for fitment on that p/n just when I call they say it's correct but could be wrong and they will check. They are suppose to let me know hopefully this week and if it turns out to be a different hub will let you know.

Yeah let me know if you find something out and I'll do the same. I got a gm number from the dealer then had my acdelco rep cross it to the Delco number. He said it kept superseding and came up with what I got. I wouldn't be shocked if it's wrong lol.

[JantzenOKC]

Nice and solid.

[JantzenOKC]

I disassembled this SS diff today just to clean and inspect everything since I bouht it used. Plus I really wanted to look at the posi clutch discs to see what kind of shape they are in. They look to be just fine. I've been going back and forth on wether I want to do the posi mod or not. I think I'll just run this diff as is for now. A lot of auto guys making big power seem to do just fine with bone stock diffs and race for years on them.

If I decide to switch gear ratios later on then I might look at doing the truetrac and billet caps at that time.

[Tajefe Couple]

Originally Posted by JantzenOKC

Man I hope so. Btw I got the axles in and they don't slide all the way either, about the same as yours. I feel like if I put socket and ratchet on it it would pull through but I'm not trying that until I put things back together. I'll try to double check the part numbers tomorrow.

So I found a source for p/n 13580684 and got one in today.
It seems to slide on both sets of splines like it should. I won't take up your page with a bunch of pics. This however is how they always have gone on when I did them on my front wheel or four wheel drives. They slide most of the way in and you torque the rest of the way down.
You of course can be the judge but the company I got the hubs you have from said the below to me.

"We have a berger Camaro here on our lot that has the 22813177 and 22813178 axle shafts on it, the hub part number I sold you is the same hub as well. I showed your pictures to one of our techs and he said it looks correct, the shaft will press into the hub as it is tightened. If you are still leary about the hubs you can always send them back for a refund. Although they are the only hubs that are shown for that application."

Let me know if you want the source for the new old stock ones(seems odd to call it NOS for a '12 Camaro) and I'll send it to you.

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by tajefe

So I found a source for p/n 13580684 and got one in today.
It seems to slide on both sets of splines like it should. I won't take up your page with a bunch of pics. This however is how they always have gone on when I did them on my front wheel or four wheel drives. They slide most of the way in and you torque the rest of the way down.
You of course can be the judge but the company I got the hubs you have from said the below to me.

"We have a berger Camaro here on our lot that has the 22813177 and 22813178 axle shafts on it, the hub part number I sold you is the same hub as well. I showed your pictures to one of our techs and he said it looks correct, the shaft will press into the hub as it is tightened. If you are still leary about the hubs you can always send them back for a refund. Although they are the only hubs that are shown for that application."

Let me know if you want the source for the new old stock ones(seems odd to call it NOS for a '12 Camaro) and I'll send it to you.

I've already bolted up both hub bearings to the spindles so I'll try to pull the axles through these bearings with the nut when I go back together with everything. Just waiting on BMR to get back to me on the upper control arm bushings, having a little issue with them on the install and I'd rather deal with it on the ground then when the cradle is back up in the car.

I know acdelco has superceeded the part numbers a few times on these hub bearings so I'm guessing they've made improvements on them. Maybe they made the splines a tighter fit to help with noises. Just guessing on that but I think I remember reading some tsb about driveline noises and axles/hubs/nut can't remeber exactly.

Here's a before and after on the spindle assemblies. Its nice to be able to clean everything while it's apart. Kinda makes me not want to drive it in the rain anymore, it's going to be so shiny and nice underneath lol

[Tajefe Couple]

Not to beat a dead horse but I was comparing both hubs and noticed a difference. It seems the original hub splines are shorter by about 1/4" inside. The old one was also slightly larger inside as well.

[JantzenOKC]

That's interesting. Explains the updated numbers. I think I would want to go with the latest part number if updates have been made. I'll find out when I try to install them. I don't want to try untill the axles are already in the diff and I'm ready to put everything together. When I'm looking at it I think there's enough spline there and it will pull through but just be tight.

[Tajefe Couple]

[JantzenOKC]

I got all my new evac stuff in. This is the new Elite Engineering E2-X Ultra catch can. This thing is huge, hopefully I can make it fit somewhere. Came with -8AN fittings installed and nice billet one way check valves. Also got the billet clean-air oil separator for my clean side. That should correct my problem of oil getting into my turbo inlet from the valve cover. This should make it collect and drip back into the crankcase.

I was running the MightyMouse pcv can and his oil cap adapter that connected to my turbo inlet filter. That was not a good setup and I believe eventually led to hydrolock and engine failure. Not necessarily the can itself but the way he had me hook up all the lines and set it up. Just not good for a boosted setup(i think). I really need a can with dual outlets so it can pull vacuum both at idle AND at wot. This Elite setup should work a lot better.

[Nutbutt]

Looks like a solid product ! The Mighty Mouse has its check valves mounted right on the can and could do a dual vacuum outlet. The problem with using the separate check valves is that having them situated away from the can oil will start to build up on the valve and will need to be cleaned every so often. I don't know of any can that cleans the oil vapor completely (sorry all the can makers). Having the check valves integrated does not have this problem if they good quality metal valves.
I am interested on how your old setup may have caused a hydro lock ?

[JantzenOKC]

Originally Posted by Nutbutt

Looks like a solid product ! The Mighty Mouse has its check valves mounted right on the can and could do a dual vacuum outlet. The problem with using the separate check valves is that having them situated away from the can oil will start to build up on the valve and will need to be cleaned every so often. I don't know of any can that cleans the oil vapor completely (sorry all the can makers). Having the check valves integrated does not have this problem if they good quality metal valves.
I am interested on how your old setup may have caused a hydro lock ?

Well my engine did hydrolock, or tried to at least. It happened at 7000rpm right as I was going through the traps. At that rpm there was no locking, it just exploded the rod. I probably wouldn't have known if it wasn't for all the other 5 rods being bent. 4 very slightly and 1 bent pretty bad. There's no doubt the pistons tried to compress a liquid, it's the only way those rods could have gotten bent. My intercooler was full of oil up to the couplers(and oil in my charge pipe and intake), my guess is it slowly accumulated from the oil going into my turbo inlet filter from the MightyMouse oil cap adapter, until there was enough that got sucked in in a large amount. Crankcase pressure pushed oil out of the oil cap, I know it did beause when I would put the breather there with no valve in it, it would get a lot of oil mist all around that little oil cap breather. Well the MightyMouse oil cap adapter is just straight through and any oil that went through there went through the turbo and would wind up in the intercooler.

The only other explanation would be if my turbo seal was leaking but I don't think it was. These are garret turbos and only have 5k miles on them. Or if the scavenge pump went out on that last run but I don't see that either because there was no smoke coming out the exhaust before it happened.

These aren't proven facts, just what I feel happened after seeing everything and thinking about it a lot. Here are pics of my #6 rod that was bent pretty bad and the MightyMouse oil cap adapter that is straight through(unlike the elite clean side oil separator that has material inside to form the vapors into drips that go back into the crankcase).

I'm not saying the catch can ruined my motor, it's a nice looking can and well built. Although I will say the MightyMouse can never caught very much oil for me, definitely less than the rx dual valve can that came with my turbo kit I was running before it.

[Nutbutt]

Now I understand, I have seen that clean side breather. I was told that it needed a check valve as this is only to add air with another oil separator in line.
A setup without another can could have caused it. Really surprised the mightymouse guys wouldn't have told you. I have found the GM breather on the clean side with stainless material added to the inside adds good protection to the clean side.
Let me know how the new can works out. I have gone through 3 different ones and still not satisfied.