03-31-2023, 07:55 AM | #29 |
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So you did this on your lift? Great idea. I might have to try that. Any suggestions, warnings or tricks I should know?
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03-31-2023, 08:00 AM | #30 |
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Agree - not hard to do and no need to remove the cradle. Did mine on a lift as well, more room to work. But basically removed each subframe bolt, 1 at a time, and then reinstalled a few turns to get some room to work. Then remove 1 corner completely, insert an appropriately sized socked between the subframe and body, jack up the subframe till there is downward pressure on that bushing, apply heat to the outside of the bushing, and just keep applying pressure to drive out the bushing. Then clean up the inside of the subframe, install new bushings, and prosper!
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03-31-2023, 08:14 AM | #31 |
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Looks like you left the exhaust on?
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03-31-2023, 08:17 AM | #32 | |
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03-31-2023, 08:55 AM | #33 |
GPI Sales Consultant
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I raised the car on a lift, by the body, like you usually would. Then I used a floor jack with a post to apply upward pressure on the subframe where I need it to squeeze out the bushing. You want to be careful you don't apply so much pressure that you start picking the body up off the lift, but it's really pretty straight forward.
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
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03-31-2023, 09:55 AM | #34 | |
Drives: 2011 SS-RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 11,442
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Quote:
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TSP STAGE 3 CAM,231/246 @112 LSA 614/641 LIFT, CIRCLE D 5C-4200-4500 CONVERTER,LOD INTAKE.CORSA EXHAUST. DSS 1 PC DS. PEGASUS SOLID CRADLE MOUNTS. 486RWHP/475RWTQ.LOTS MORE.
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03-31-2023, 09:57 AM | #35 | |
Drives: 2011 SS-RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 11,442
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TSP STAGE 3 CAM,231/246 @112 LSA 614/641 LIFT, CIRCLE D 5C-4200-4500 CONVERTER,LOD INTAKE.CORSA EXHAUST. DSS 1 PC DS. PEGASUS SOLID CRADLE MOUNTS. 486RWHP/475RWTQ.LOTS MORE.
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03-31-2023, 10:13 AM | #36 |
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Just took rubber hangers off to let exhaust freely move as needed to move as cradle moves a few inches when removing bushings.
Make sure bushing hole is completely clean of old bushing before trying to install solid bushing. Freezing solid bushings is of great help and make sure the solid bushing fully seat. I removed anti-sway bar mount as I think it was in the way or needed to let it drop more. It’s been awhile since doing ZL1 so don’t exactly remember. But the process is super simple relative to all the other projects you’ve completed. |
03-31-2023, 10:30 AM | #37 | |
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03-31-2023, 05:16 PM | #38 |
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Got the front one out. I disconnected the shock from the lower control arm since it's the part that attaches to the body. Sway bay is still intact. This FE5 suspension has a green plastic that separates the rubber from the cradle. It wouldn't press at all under the cars weight, I had to add heat to move any. Wasn't too bad once the car was up on stands. Man I hate jack stands!
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04-01-2023, 12:42 AM | #39 |
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Ok, what a PITA. Got all 4 in and tight, but I'm going to finish torqing and do the final assembly tomorrow, I'm beat.
Always seems to take twice as long because of recording and I learned a ton. I could do the next one twice as fast I'm sure. Thanks guys for the ideas and the lift suggestion, it made a huge difference not having to jack a handle a million times. I did have to remove the sway bar to drop the rear mounts. Tomorrow, the Hotchkis Chassis Brace. . . . . .
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04-01-2023, 05:24 AM | #40 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 6SP Ashen Grey Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: NY
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The upper control arm bushing would be a lot easier to change now while cradle is down a bit. The brace goes on easily.
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04-01-2023, 08:00 AM | #41 |
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Yea, I saw those and they looked pretty accessible, but I can always do them later now that I know how to use the lift this way. The lift is the best tool I bought for the shop by far.
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