2013 LFX starter issues - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

67-LS1 · 04-18-2024, 11:05 PM

I have a 2013 LFX and a 6L50 in my 66 Chevelle and I’m having a weird issue with the starter. Any advise would be appreciated.

When I turn the key to start, sometimes the engine will start right up. But most times the starter just clicks. Like weak battery. I keep trying to start it and after 2-30 or 40 times, I never know how many, it fires up. So I’d consider it intermittent but it happens way more often than not.

The battery is solid. I’ve replaced the starter. I’ve ohmed all of the wires in the circuit and it’s all good. From the key switch through the fuse block/firewall connector to the connection on the starter solenoid.

Today I pulled the wire from the solenoid and put my voltmeter on it. Every time I turned the key to start I got 12 volts. Every time.

So I put my probe in through the back of the connector so I could check the voltage with the wire plugged into the solenoid. So with the wire plugged in I get 6 volts when trying to start and it clicked. When it finally started (after 6 clicks) its because it jumped to 9 volts.

So to recap, unconnected I get 12 volts every time. But when the wire is plugged in to the solenoid it get intermittent 6-9 volts, 6 more often than 9.

Thoughts?

KillboyPowerhead · 04-19-2024, 01:13 PM

Ground issue? Is it easy enough to reroute the ground to somewhere else to test?

gtstorey · 04-19-2024, 01:20 PM

Either a ground issue or a issue with the power feed to the solenoid. Probably the latter. It's failing under load and checking the resistance won't show the issue. The amount of current required to ohm the wire is very small but the solenoid takes more and it can't carry the load. I would start with the relay if you have one feeding the solenoid.

67-LS1 · 04-19-2024, 10:27 PM

Thanks for the input. I have two braided ground straps that go from the heads to the firewall. I have one other that goes to the frame. I also have a ground cable going from the front of the block to the frame where it meets another cable that goes to the neg battery terminal.
On the 12V+ side, I have a 12g wire running from the fuse block through the ignition switch and back through a connector on the back of the fuse block directly to the starter terminal. There is no additional relay(s) in the circuit.
The + side of circuit is pretty much stock 66 Chevelle with the new correct wire end for the starter soldered to the end. So that wire is 58 years old.
Is there a way to “load test” the circuit so I can see what might be drawing the voltage down to 6v?
I’m out of ideas.

04-18-2024, 11:05 PM	#1
67-LS1 Drives: 1966 Chevelle Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Northern California Posts: 141	2013 LFX starter issues I have a 2013 LFX and a 6L50 in my 66 Chevelle and I’m having a weird issue with the starter. Any advise would be appreciated. When I turn the key to start, sometimes the engine will start right up. But most times the starter just clicks. Like weak battery. I keep trying to start it and after 2-30 or 40 times, I never know how many, it fires up. So I’d consider it intermittent but it happens way more often than not. The battery is solid. I’ve replaced the starter. I’ve ohmed all of the wires in the circuit and it’s all good. From the key switch through the fuse block/firewall connector to the connection on the starter solenoid. Today I pulled the wire from the solenoid and put my voltmeter on it. Every time I turned the key to start I got 12 volts. Every time. So I put my probe in through the back of the connector so I could check the voltage with the wire plugged into the solenoid. So with the wire plugged in I get 6 volts when trying to start and it clicked. When it finally started (after 6 clicks) its because it jumped to 9 volts. So to recap, unconnected I get 12 volts every time. But when the wire is plugged in to the solenoid it get intermittent 6-9 volts, 6 more often than 9. Thoughts? __________________ 66 Chevelle with 2013 LFX V6, 6 speed auto, full Hotchkis suspension, Wilwood 4 wheel discs.

04-19-2024, 01:13 PM	#2
KillboyPowerhead Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 931	Ground issue? Is it easy enough to reroute the ground to somewhere else to test? __________________ Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts

04-19-2024, 10:27 PM	#4
67-LS1 Drives: 1966 Chevelle Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Northern California Posts: 141	Thanks for the input. I have two braided ground straps that go from the heads to the firewall. I have one other that goes to the frame. I also have a ground cable going from the front of the block to the frame where it meets another cable that goes to the neg battery terminal. On the 12V+ side, I have a 12g wire running from the fuse block through the ignition switch and back through a connector on the back of the fuse block directly to the starter terminal. There is no additional relay(s) in the circuit. The + side of circuit is pretty much stock 66 Chevelle with the new correct wire end for the starter soldered to the end. So that wire is 58 years old. Is there a way to “load test” the circuit so I can see what might be drawing the voltage down to 6v? I’m out of ideas. __________________ 66 Chevelle with 2013 LFX V6, 6 speed auto, full Hotchkis suspension, Wilwood 4 wheel discs.

04-19-2024, 01:20 PM	#3
gtstorey Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,157	Either a ground issue or a issue with the power feed to the solenoid. Probably the latter. It's failing under load and checking the resistance won't show the issue. The amount of current required to ohm the wire is very small but the solenoid takes more and it can't carry the load. I would start with the relay if you have one feeding the solenoid.