Won’t start after work (clutch, SC rear cog and rebuilt transmission) - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

fastblack10ss · 02-09-2020, 06:57 PM

A few months back output on transmission M6 broke. Pulled and sent to Tick Performance. While rebuilding I went ahead and put Mantic clutch in and just completed rear cog on TVS2300.
During transmission install a small sensor up near top on driver side I accidentally bent a pin and I thought I corrected it and the plug finally went on ok.
Fast forward to trying to crank today and no starter click but fuel sys primes.
Battery was disconnected for about 4.5 months.
Any ideas? Should I try re-flash last tune, pull transmission to check the unknown sensor?

blake-b · 02-09-2020, 08:22 PM

I would start with that sensor but reflashing the tune will be faster.

You shouldn't have to pull it, just undo trans crossmember and there are three front crossmember (?) bolts on each side, remove rearmost set, loosen middle set to about halfway and the front set loosen just a little. That should drop it enough you can get to it.

You can also look for images of a TR6060 and see exactly what plug you are referring to and see if it has anything to do with starting/cranking.

Also possible the battery lost enough juice to only be able to prime. I would actually start with it and a voltmeter and/or charger.

ETA: Pics in this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...onnectors.html

fastblack10ss · 02-09-2020, 08:50 PM

It was sensor 2 in that link so it says it’s for shift skip. I’m going to try and reflash computer and see where that gets me.

fastblack10ss · 02-09-2020, 08:59 PM

Tried reflash and still not trying to crank. I doubt it’s gonna be because of the sensor and my gut feeling is I got pin bent back correctly. I did check fuses 15-20 that looked like it was for ignition.

blake-b · 02-09-2020, 10:35 PM

Have you checked the battery's voltage?

fastblack10ss · 02-10-2020, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blake-b

Have you checked the battery's voltage?

I checked and charged to about 12.7V. I’m gonna try and take battery to be tested as voltage seems ok but maybe something happened to it over the past few months.
Next thing is to check key fob. Immobilezer light goes off after a few seconds and the key will lock/unlock but maybe still a chance the keys isn’t allowing it to crank.

blake-b · 02-10-2020, 11:37 AM

Good idea on the key. Something could be up with the VATS

fastblack10ss · 02-10-2020, 08:35 PM

So I charged battery again and tried tonight. Result was it started no problems and ran great.
So appears voltage below 12.7 is no go for cranking.
Now onto bleed new Tick master cylinder. I’m gonna post in driveline section.

stevieturbo · 02-16-2020, 02:48 PM

Well if it's not trying to crank....obviously first thing to check is the starter, and whether it is getting power when you try to start.

Voltages will go a lot lower than 12.7 during cranking, even nominal voltage for a battery sitting is barely as much as 12.7v

Yours must have been flat.

02-09-2020, 06:57 PM	#1
fastblack10ss Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Medina TN Posts: 21	Won’t start after work (clutch, SC rear cog and rebuilt transmission) A few months back output on transmission M6 broke. Pulled and sent to Tick Performance. While rebuilding I went ahead and put Mantic clutch in and just completed rear cog on TVS2300. During transmission install a small sensor up near top on driver side I accidentally bent a pin and I thought I corrected it and the plug finally went on ok. Fast forward to trying to crank today and no starter click but fuel sys primes. Battery was disconnected for about 4.5 months. Any ideas? Should I try re-flash last tune, pull transmission to check the unknown sensor? __________________ 2010 Camaro SS - TVS2300 - LT Headers - DSX Flex Fuel Sensor - ID1050X

02-09-2020, 08:22 PM	#2
blake-b Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,205	I would start with that sensor but reflashing the tune will be faster. You shouldn't have to pull it, just undo trans crossmember and there are three front crossmember (?) bolts on each side, remove rearmost set, loosen middle set to about halfway and the front set loosen just a little. That should drop it enough you can get to it. You can also look for images of a TR6060 and see exactly what plug you are referring to and see if it has anything to do with starting/cranking. Also possible the battery lost enough juice to only be able to prime. I would actually start with it and a voltmeter and/or charger. ETA: Pics in this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...onnectors.html Last edited by blake-b; 02-09-2020 at 08:50 PM.

02-09-2020, 08:50 PM	#3
fastblack10ss Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Medina TN Posts: 21	It was sensor 2 in that link so it says it’s for shift skip. I’m going to try and reflash computer and see where that gets me. __________________ 2010 Camaro SS - TVS2300 - LT Headers - DSX Flex Fuel Sensor - ID1050X

02-09-2020, 08:59 PM	#4
fastblack10ss Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Medina TN Posts: 21	Tried reflash and still not trying to crank. I doubt it’s gonna be because of the sensor and my gut feeling is I got pin bent back correctly. I did check fuses 15-20 that looked like it was for ignition. __________________ 2010 Camaro SS - TVS2300 - LT Headers - DSX Flex Fuel Sensor - ID1050X

02-10-2020, 08:35 PM	#8
fastblack10ss Drives: 2010 SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Medina TN Posts: 21	So I charged battery again and tried tonight. Result was it started no problems and ran great. So appears voltage below 12.7 is no go for cranking. Now onto bleed new Tick master cylinder. I’m gonna post in driveline section. __________________ 2010 Camaro SS - TVS2300 - LT Headers - DSX Flex Fuel Sensor - ID1050X

02-09-2020, 10:35 PM	#5
blake-b Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,205	Have you checked the battery's voltage?

02-10-2020, 11:37 AM	#7
blake-b Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,205	Good idea on the key. Something could be up with the VATS

02-16-2020, 02:48 PM	#9
stevieturbo Drives: it changes Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1,126	Well if it's not trying to crank....obviously first thing to check is the starter, and whether it is getting power when you try to start. Voltages will go a lot lower than 12.7 during cranking, even nominal voltage for a battery sitting is barely as much as 12.7v Yours must have been flat.