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Old 06-11-2019, 11:12 AM   #1
redmuddman
 
Drives: chevy camaro
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pulling the trigger on a drag pack

Looks like i'm going to do the Race Star 92 17-10.5 and MT Street ET R. Will the 315/35-17 fit or should i go with the 305/45-17 ? 2011 2SS Thanks
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:47 AM   #2
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Both fit
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:04 PM   #3
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Both fit
thank you sir
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:36 PM   #4
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Every time I mount my Race Stars on the car I wish I would have spent more money on wheels. YMMV.
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
Every time I mount my Race Stars on the car I wish I would have spent more money on wheels. YMMV.
They will just be for the track so not super concerned about looks. Which ones would you get if you could do it over ?
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:27 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by redmuddman View Post
They will just be for the track so not super concerned about looks. Which ones would you get if you could do it over ?
I don't care about looks either. I am talking about how much of a PITA it is to mount and dismount them.

The free lugnuts are junk, I really need to upgrade. The lug holes are recessed and the holes aren't large enough for a regular impact socket, let alone a socket with the protective plastic on it. They give you a thin wall chrome 3/8 drive socket that will work, but it will break if you use an impact. I ended up getting a thin wall impact socket from Amazon that fits, but it beats the piss out of the recessed holes. Again, I'm not as concerned with the looks, but it makes it harder to get the lugs on and off too.

Besides that, there is a phony plastic ring that you have to install on the wheel hub before mounting the wheels. It helps align the wheel so that you can get the lugnuts started. SO you have to install those with your race wheels and uninstall them when you go back to street tires. PITA.

If you don't get the new style Race star wheels with the knurled bead seat areas, then prepare to grind all of the powder coat off the bead sealing surfaces. My tires spun 2" on the wheel on every launch before I dismounted the tires and removed the powder coat. PITA.

All of those little things add up to me not recommending these wheels. If your budget will allow it, find some better wheels. If not, then be prepared to work a little bit harder every time you swap them out. I've swapped mine on and back off again about 10 times so far and I absolutely hate these wheels because of the increased hassle.

I really haven't looked at other wheels to determine which manufacturer makes a set I would like better. I'm going to run these this year and then try to find something better next year.
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CAI Cold Air Intake; Comp Cams LSR Series; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; AEM Wideband; N2MB WOT Box;
Tuned by Throttle Works 467whp 419 wtq Best 1/4 mile 12.165 @ 117.10 mph 2,700 ft DA
McCleod RST; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:45 PM   #7
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Good info!
Thanks zlathim
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
I don't care about looks either. I am talking about how much of a PITA it is to mount and dismount them.

The free lugnuts are junk, I really need to upgrade. The lug holes are recessed and the holes aren't large enough for a regular impact socket, let alone a socket with the protective plastic on it. They give you a thin wall chrome 3/8 drive socket that will work, but it will break if you use an impact. I ended up getting a thin wall impact socket from Amazon that fits, but it beats the piss out of the recessed holes. Again, I'm not as concerned with the looks, but it makes it harder to get the lugs on and off too.

Besides that, there is a phony plastic ring that you have to install on the wheel hub before mounting the wheels. It helps align the wheel so that you can get the lugnuts started. SO you have to install those with your race wheels and uninstall them when you go back to street tires. PITA.

If you don't get the new style Race star wheels with the knurled bead seat areas, then prepare to grind all of the powder coat off the bead sealing surfaces. My tires spun 2" on the wheel on every launch before I dismounted the tires and removed the powder coat. PITA.

All of those little things add up to me not recommending these wheels. If your budget will allow it, find some better wheels. If not, then be prepared to work a little bit harder every time you swap them out. I've swapped mine on and back off again about 10 times so far and I absolutely hate these wheels because of the increased hassle.

I really haven't looked at other wheels to determine which manufacturer makes a set I would like better. I'm going to run these this year and then try to find something better next year.
Thanks Zlathim that is really good info. From what i understand the Welds are about the only other 17'' wheel that will fit and they are at least twice as much money but maybe they are worth it
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Old 06-11-2019, 09:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by redmuddman View Post
Thanks Zlathim that is really good info. From what i understand the Welds are about the only other 17'' wheel that will fit and they are at least twice as much money but maybe they are worth it
Z, I am right there with ya, and I don't even have an impact. I do the shank lugs on my 17" RaceStars with a 4 way lug wrench and it takes a minute to swap them..which is partly why I leave them on unless I am going to be making a road trip to GPI..which means I will hafta swap them soon smh. Also they just look way better than the stockers.

As for the Welds, you just have to ask yourself if you are ever considering a 15" conversion...do you want to spend the money on 17" Welds, to turn around and do it all again on some 15's?

I am gonna grab some 17's for the front and just run street radials on all 4, then when the budget allows, get the 15" Weld beadlocks and a pair of skinnies for the fronts. Then you have the durability of the heavy RaceStars for the abuse of the streets and the lightweight Welds for the track
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:23 AM   #10
Netraa
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
I don't care about looks either. I am talking about how much of a PITA it is to mount and dismount them.

The free lugnuts are junk, I really need to upgrade. The lug holes are recessed and the holes aren't large enough for a regular impact socket, let alone a socket with the protective plastic on it. They give you a thin wall chrome 3/8 drive socket that will work, but it will break if you use an impact. I ended up getting a thin wall impact socket from Amazon that fits, but it beats the piss out of the recessed holes. Again, I'm not as concerned with the looks, but it makes it harder to get the lugs on and off too.

Besides that, there is a phony plastic ring that you have to install on the wheel hub before mounting the wheels. It helps align the wheel so that you can get the lugnuts started. SO you have to install those with your race wheels and uninstall them when you go back to street tires. PITA.

If you don't get the new style Race star wheels with the knurled bead seat areas, then prepare to grind all of the powder coat off the bead sealing surfaces. My tires spun 2" on the wheel on every launch before I dismounted the tires and removed the powder coat. PITA.

All of those little things add up to me not recommending these wheels. If your budget will allow it, find some better wheels. If not, then be prepared to work a little bit harder every time you swap them out. I've swapped mine on and back off again about 10 times so far and I absolutely hate these wheels because of the increased hassle.

I really haven't looked at other wheels to determine which manufacturer makes a set I would like better. I'm going to run these this year and then try to find something better next year.
This, This,
This, This and this.... I sold my pair with tires for less than I paid for the tires just to get rid of them and the holy hell nightmare they weree.
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:05 PM   #11
zlathim
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris49066SS View Post
Z, I am right there with ya, and I don't even have an impact. I do the shank lugs on my 17" RaceStars with a 4 way lug wrench and it takes a minute to swap them..which is partly why I leave them on unless I am going to be making a road trip to GPI..which means I will hafta swap them soon smh. Also they just look way better than the stockers.

As for the Welds, you just have to ask yourself if you are ever considering a 15" conversion...do you want to spend the money on 17" Welds, to turn around and do it all again on some 15's?

I am gonna grab some 17's for the front and just run street radials on all 4, then when the budget allows, get the 15" Weld beadlocks and a pair of skinnies for the fronts. Then you have the durability of the heavy RaceStars for the abuse of the streets and the lightweight Welds for the track
yep, there will eventually be a decision point between 15" and 17", but I am not going to lose sleep over it right now. Next year I will assess my goals and go from there. Either way, I can see myself selling the Race Stars after this season.
__________________
CAI Cold Air Intake; Comp Cams LSR Series; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; AEM Wideband; N2MB WOT Box;
Tuned by Throttle Works 467whp 419 wtq Best 1/4 mile 12.165 @ 117.10 mph 2,700 ft DA
McCleod RST; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:07 PM   #12
redmuddman
 
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Does anyone have any experience with the Forgestar wheels ? They are about the same price as the Race Stars
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