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Old 06-07-2019, 03:28 PM   #1
Joe M 2012 2SS

 
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TCI Linelock and Stabilitrac

The TCI linelock works great. Burnouts before making a pass are much easier to do consistently, with no wear on the rear brakes and rotors as a result.

The downside though is occasionally, after the "service stabilitrac" comes up, the car comes out of "all nannies off mode", and making a decent pass is impossible afterwards.

Instead of the two orange lights for traction control off, and stabilitrac off, which are the two lights that come up when holding the button for 8 seconds, a third orange light comes up which is right above them, the TCS/Stabilitrac light.

There has to be a way to set up the linelock so this wont occur, and ruin the pass you're about to make?
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:54 PM   #2
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I had to run a relay in mine to act as a abs fuse pull when I arm the master switch ( main power on switch to line lock). Pretty much tricks the system as a bypass and automatically puts it in the all nannies off mode. I do not have any stability track issues anymore as long as I arm the system, do my burnout, roll out then disarm the system. The car then after disarming main line lock master switch, will go into the same settings as if the car was just started and like I did nothing. I then after burnout and power down of line lock, put the hold down 8 seconds on t/c button while rolling up to line. I have the Hurst kit on mine. This happens on most gen5ís but some people with earlier 2010-2012 have reported the stability track not an issue. I seen this occurring a lot no matter what line lock brand you install because itís the abs module that is triggering the stability track system. The car computer system is actually doing what it is supposed to but we are seeking something else, so you have to trick the computer. Some people have just pulled fuses when say at the track. Some people put the relay switch inline with the main power switch of the line lock. I went with the relay so there is no forgetting to pull fuses etc. plus I like the idea of the relay that anytime I arm the main switch the line lock and computer are ready to go no matter where I am or what Iím doing. I can find the old info for ya if you wanna do the relay install let me know and Iíll add it here. If you decide to do the physically pull the fuse say at the track only Iím sure a few people on here can tell you which 2 fuses I believe need to be removed. Whatever you decide just remember itís nothing probably wrong with the car or line lock.. just the abs system and stability track system freaking out thinking something wrong. Simple fix and good luck .
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:31 AM   #3
Joe M 2012 2SS

 
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Since I only do burnouts at the dragstrip, the fuse pull would be the way I want to go.

I did a little research, and I believe it's fuse #40, and relay #43. I'll have to figure out where these are located.

The strange thing about it, is it doesn't occur every time. Sometimes the only thing that happens is the "service stabilitrac" comes up, and I just push the button on the turn signal, it goes away and all is good.

But other times the TC/Stabilitrac light will illuminate on the dash cluster, and when this happens, the car turns TC/Stabilitrac back on. I have even had the car cut off after rolling out to a stop. Crank it back up and this light is still on, so I cannot make any kind of decent pass.

Last trip to the strip I almost lost to a Honda due to this, my car only ran 8.1 (1/8th mile), and the Honda ran a 7.9. A .015 tree gave me a .03 win. Glad he wasn't there on my first pass of 7.3, he now thinks he can beat me.

If anyone has a photograph of the location of fuse #40, and relay #43, that would be great, thanks!
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Old 06-08-2019, 09:44 AM   #4
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Under the hood.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:48 AM   #5
Joe M 2012 2SS

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas Bound View Post
Under the hood.
Thank you!
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:49 PM   #6
Joe M 2012 2SS

 
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Went to the strip yesterday and made a pass with the #40 and #43 pulled. No stabilitrac codes after engaging line lock and rolling out after burnout.

One thing was odd though. The nannie button did absolutely nothing with the fuse/relay pulled. The lights on the dash stayed the same regardless of how long you held the button down. Dash looked like this. I understand the "ABS" and "BRAKE" lights are from the fuse/relay pull, but are the nannies actually off? I didn't hook on the pass at all, but the time seemed right for having a 1.8 60', the car ran 7.7 (1/8th mile).

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This is what I am used to seeing when the button is held for 8 seconds, which lets you know all the nannies are off, but with the fuse/relay pulled, these 2 lights don't come on. Just want to be sure all the nannies are off.


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Old Today, 12:02 AM   #7
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