Oil pump change out - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ta406 · 12-18-2022, 01:02 PM

I have a 2013 ZL1 that I am going to change out my oil pump this winter. For those of you that have replaced the oil pump only, did you remove the radiator? Looks like it may be a little easier but is it worth the extra work?

Thanks

Triple5even813 · 12-22-2022, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ta406

I have a 2013 ZL1 that I am going to change out my oil pump this winter. For those of you that have replaced the oil pump only, did you remove the radiator? Looks like it may be a little easier but is it worth the extra work?

Thanks

Definitely not worth the extra work IMO

FasNuf · 12-22-2022, 04:57 PM

Wow, can't image what a PITA it would be to do with all the junk in the way, especially dealing with the pickup tube and that oring.

tartagliazl1 · 12-22-2022, 05:30 PM

yes remove the radiator it 15 minutes of more work. you will need the extra room to work.
its not that hard.

LevonH · 12-23-2022, 06:36 AM

Why are you changing it?

brick59 · 12-23-2022, 08:30 AM

Defiantly remove the radiator you're going to need the room to work, if a wrench or something slips and you punch a hole it you'll you'll be removing it and replacing it anyway.

ta406 · 12-24-2022, 01:13 PM

Thanks everyone. I am concerned about my oil pressure being around 50 psi at 6500rpm. After some research, I'm going to also drop the pan and plug the relief valve (watched FasNuf's youtube video on it) and may just shim the stock LSA pump. By all accounts, the LSA pump seems to be very reliable and only the Melling 10355HV is any "improvement". I'd really like to see closer to 60-70 psi at 6500rpm with 5w-30 oil.

tartagliazl1 · 12-24-2022, 01:31 PM

What’s your plan on dropping the oil pan? Cut the crossbar or lift the motor? I’d be more worried about that than the radiator.

ta406 · 12-24-2022, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tartagliazl1

What’s your plan on dropping the oil pan? Cut the crossbar or lift the motor? I’d be more worried about that than the radiator.

Probably cut the crossbar. Either way looks like an ass ache

ZMEnow · 12-24-2022, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ta406

Thanks everyone. I am concerned about my oil pressure being around 50 psi at 6500rpm. After some research, I'm going to also drop the pan and plug the relief valve (watched FasNuf's youtube video on it) and may just shim the stock LSA pump. By all accounts, the LSA pump seems to be very reliable and only the Melling 10355HV is any "improvement". I'd really like to see closer to 60-70 psi at 6500rpm with 5w-30 oil.

If you haven’t upgraded the valve train and are consistently hitting 6500 you won’t need to worry about oil pressure in The future..

FasNuf · 12-24-2022, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ta406

Probably cut the crossbar. Either way looks like an ass ache

Got a video to help out.

https://youtu.be/2iqekORDMu8

Either way you slice it, the pump is a pain. I've done it in the engine and then later did the Melling HV by pulling the pan completely and doing the PRV at the same time. It was a lot more time to do the crossmember and pull the pan, but I had a ton more confidence that the oring was installed correctly. Some may say it's not necessary, but align the pump when you install it. I've often thought it wasn't absolutely necessary, but is great peace of mind that none of the parts are touching inside.
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ta406 · 12-24-2022, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

If you haven’t upgraded the valve train and are consistently hitting 6500 you won’t need to worry about oil pressure in The future..

I picked this car up last summer so there are still issues that need to get taken care of. I just picked up a CHE trunnion kit.

ta406 · 12-24-2022, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Got a video to help out.

https://youtu.be/2iqekORDMu8

Either way you slice it, the pump is a pain. I've done it in the engine and then later did the Melling HV by pulling the pan completely and doing the PRV at the same time. It was a lot more time to do the crossmember and pull the pan, but I had a ton more confidence that the oring was installed correctly. Some may say it's not necessary, but align the pump when you install it. I've often thought it wasn't absolutely necessary, but is great peace of mind that none of the parts are touching inside.
.
.
.
.
.
.

I appreciate the input. I’ve built a lot of small block chevy’s in the past (pretty new to LS’s) and am a stickler when it comes to little details like that. Aligning the pump is definitely on my checklist.

12-18-2022, 01:02 PM	#1
ta406 Drives: Chevy Camaro Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 10	Oil pump change out I have a 2013 ZL1 that I am going to change out my oil pump this winter. For those of you that have replaced the oil pump only, did you remove the radiator? Looks like it may be a little easier but is it worth the extra work? Thanks

12-22-2022, 04:57 PM	#3
FasNuf Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,617 View My Garage	Wow, can't image what a PITA it would be to do with all the junk in the way, especially dealing with the pickup tube and that oring. __________________ . . . . https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgN...etl17hA/videos

12-22-2022, 05:30 PM	#4
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 956	yes remove the radiator it 15 minutes of more work. you will need the extra room to work. its not that hard. __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

12-23-2022, 06:36 AM	#5
LevonH Chevy Enthusiast. Drives: 2015 Camaro ZL1 Summit White Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Calgary Area, Alberta Posts: 221	Why are you changing it? __________________ Levon H. Bone Stock

12-23-2022, 08:30 AM	#6
brick59 Sucker Punch Drives: 2013 Black ZL1, 2007 Silverado LTZ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 275	Defiantly remove the radiator you're going to need the room to work, if a wrench or something slips and you punch a hole it you'll you'll be removing it and replacing it anyway. __________________ 427 Dart SHP Pro LS Block, Callies Magnum Crank, Callies Ultra I Beam Rods, Diamond Pistons, AGP twin Turbos 6865, Mast heads, Cam Motion LLR cam, Morel tie bar lifters, Crower roller rockers, NW 103MM TB, ID2600 XDS, Fore Triple, DSX, E85, ARH Turbo Headers, Corsa, Jakes stage 5 4L80, Circle D, RPM Roll Bar, BMR, Carlyle Racing 15" conversion kit.

12-24-2022, 01:13 PM	#7
ta406 Drives: Chevy Camaro Join Date: Nov 2021 Location: Pacific NW Posts: 10	Thanks everyone. I am concerned about my oil pressure being around 50 psi at 6500rpm. After some research, I'm going to also drop the pan and plug the relief valve (watched FasNuf's youtube video on it) and may just shim the stock LSA pump. By all accounts, the LSA pump seems to be very reliable and only the Melling 10355HV is any "improvement". I'd really like to see closer to 60-70 psi at 6500rpm with 5w-30 oil.

12-24-2022, 01:31 PM	#8
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 956	What’s your plan on dropping the oil pan? Cut the crossbar or lift the motor? I’d be more worried about that than the radiator. __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.