Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Phastek Performance
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Engine | Drivetrain | Powertrain Technical Discussions > Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-13-2018, 07:58 PM   #1
Littleup
 
Drives: 2010 camaro ss
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2
Pushrod length

Hi guys, appreciate any advice. Just installed a tsp cam. Used comp cam pushrod checker and came out to the 7.4 which is what everyone says is the one I should use. Heads are stock and never been off. Question is why is my pushrod rod checker 1/8 of an inch shorter than the 7.4 rods I have. When I put them in and tighten the rockers it opens the valve at first. I assume I just don't understand how this all works. Shouldn't the checker be only .075 shorter for the preload? Thanks
Littleup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2018, 08:20 PM   #2
07-SRT
 
07-SRT's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 Camaro SS
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 670
My comp checker was the same lenght as the p-rods I ordered..It shouldn't be shorter. The sequence to tighten the rocker arms should be on the base circle of the cam and not opening any valves. You should be measuring for 0 lash and preload is set by the additional length of the p-rods. So if 0 lash is 7.325 and you want a .075 preload you would order 7.400 p-rods
__________________

2015 Camaro 2SS

Cam/Heads/FBO 498/447 SAE
07-SRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2018, 08:37 PM   #3
Littleup
 
Drives: 2010 camaro ss
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2
That's what I did. Cam gear at 12 and crank at 12. Did zero lash. 6.8+10.5 turns x0.05+ .075 comes to 7.4. But the 7.4 rods are 1/8 inch longer than my checker and they push my valve open when tightened.
Littleup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2018, 09:01 PM   #4
frankwjr

 
frankwjr's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,100
__________________
2010 SS 2SS M6-Spectre CAI-JET TBS-JBA Shorty Headers-ARH H/F Cats-Doug Thorley axle back-MSD 12v coil harness mod-PAC 1218's-BTR 3/8 7.4 push rods-Powell Machine bronze rocker bushings-Prothane motor mounts-Prothane rear sub-frame inserts-BMR Trailing Arms & bushings-1LE 3.91's-1LE axles-Ford S-spring posi-mod-Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot)-Daily Driver-120K!-12.7 at 112-1.9 60'(3.45's)-BFG Comp-2 Street Tire-stock size on ZL1 reps(20x8.5)(20x9.5)-DR's Nitto NT05R(305/45) on Motegi MT120 18x9.5-12.1 at 114-1.7 60'(3.91's) All work by me...
frankwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 07:15 AM   #5
RGD
 
Drives: 2010 2ss
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Loganville GA
Posts: 29
If your heads have never been off I am assuming you have you factory lifters in Place. I checked mine with a solid lifter so it I know the plunger didn’t move at all. If you used your real valve springs they are super strong so you might have actually compressed the plunger in the lifter giving you a false reading. Also I was told not to use real valve springs with the pushrod length checker because it wasn’t made for that kind of pressure.
RGD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 07:33 AM   #6
frankwjr

 
frankwjr's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,100
don't use ANY springs when checkin P/R length! pull the back of the rocker up by hand any then adjust the checker till it just touches...easy..

and the only difference you should see is if the cam was ground with a smaller base circle than stock...and then ur only like a .025 or .050 LONGER than stock..peace OP
__________________
2010 SS 2SS M6-Spectre CAI-JET TBS-JBA Shorty Headers-ARH H/F Cats-Doug Thorley axle back-MSD 12v coil harness mod-PAC 1218's-BTR 3/8 7.4 push rods-Powell Machine bronze rocker bushings-Prothane motor mounts-Prothane rear sub-frame inserts-BMR Trailing Arms & bushings-1LE 3.91's-1LE axles-Ford S-spring posi-mod-Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot)-Daily Driver-120K!-12.7 at 112-1.9 60'(3.45's)-BFG Comp-2 Street Tire-stock size on ZL1 reps(20x8.5)(20x9.5)-DR's Nitto NT05R(305/45) on Motegi MT120 18x9.5-12.1 at 114-1.7 60'(3.91's) All work by me...
frankwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 11:03 AM   #7
RGD
 
Drives: 2010 2ss
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Loganville GA
Posts: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankwjr View Post
don't use ANY springs when checkin P/R length! pull the back of the rocker up by hand any then adjust the checker till it just touches...easy..

and the only difference you should see is if the cam was ground with a smaller base circle than stock...and then ur only like a .025 or .050 LONGER than stock..peace OP
Not sure I am following you on this one. What’s keeping your valve closed if your not using some kind of spring? I used checker springs to keep my valve closed so I could see where my rocker arm made contact.
Attached Images
 
RGD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2018, 02:17 PM   #8
eLeSthree
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS 6sp
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Drivers Seat
Posts: 332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Littleup View Post
Hi guys, appreciate any advice. Just installed a tsp cam. Used comp cam pushrod checker and came out to the 7.4 which is what everyone says is the one I should use. Heads are stock and never been off. Question is why is my pushrod rod checker 1/8 of an inch shorter than the 7.4 rods I have. When I put them in and tighten the rockers it opens the valve at first. I assume I just don't understand how this all works. Shouldn't the checker be only .075 shorter for the preload? Thanks
Have you measured those 7.4 rods? I found one in the pack that was way big. If they all measure 7.4, you should be fine. Make sure when you install the pushrod, you are on the base circle of the camshaft or yea, it will push the valve open. You have to crank the engine over for every single pushrod you install, so that its on the base circle.
__________________
2011 Camaro SS M6
HP Tuners Pro
ESS Tuning Supercharger @ 10# 711/638
eLeSthree is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2018, 03:57 PM   #9
frankwjr

 
frankwjr's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,100
you can do half of them, rotate 180 and do the rest..I posted on a prev thread on this...

regarding the spring comment above...apologies not clear...when the rocker is tq down there will/should be some play...if your pushin up the back of the rocker(causin valve to open) then the PR length is gonna be off...so what I meant was to just pull the back of the rocker up by hand while adjustin the checker....anyway if the heads are not pulled and even if they were and just had the standard .005 whack to clean them up...P/R length 99% of the time will be 7.4...unless lobe lift starts to get freaky high and they have to grind the cam on a smaller base circle...which most of the off the self cams are not....always follow the manufactures recommendations...especially on springs! peace
__________________
2010 SS 2SS M6-Spectre CAI-JET TBS-JBA Shorty Headers-ARH H/F Cats-Doug Thorley axle back-MSD 12v coil harness mod-PAC 1218's-BTR 3/8 7.4 push rods-Powell Machine bronze rocker bushings-Prothane motor mounts-Prothane rear sub-frame inserts-BMR Trailing Arms & bushings-1LE 3.91's-1LE axles-Ford S-spring posi-mod-Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot)-Daily Driver-120K!-12.7 at 112-1.9 60'(3.45's)-BFG Comp-2 Street Tire-stock size on ZL1 reps(20x8.5)(20x9.5)-DR's Nitto NT05R(305/45) on Motegi MT120 18x9.5-12.1 at 114-1.7 60'(3.91's) All work by me...
frankwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2018, 09:18 AM   #10
christianchevell
old school chevy rodder
 
christianchevell's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,807
The 235 239 TSP cam I had professionally installed had a smaller base circle on disassembly I recall it having 7.375 pushrods stock..? and usually the manufacturers know what to recommend, but my tuner the best out here always measures and inserts what right and uses the correct length. There are some good articles out there even included in some more recent posts but they often forget a part or are factually wrong by stupid keyboard operators... number one thing said by my brainiac....don't believe everything you read on the internet. And yes usually a ground smaller cam core needs longer than stock pushrods. Now the lashing of the valves is..well often overdone form what I have read on here over the years as people forget the math part that thread pitch is like .047 for one turn times the 1.7 ratio for a .077 effect to one turn..of course I am old and don't like this metric crap..LOL so that may be inches........and most stock ls3 engines have like .060 or less for less noise preload and I think the stock rocker pedestal bases add a little....? I do know the deal is there is more plunger travel area and tighter does not necessarily mean interference and can be better for high revs but noisier and the ls7 takes .070 which has a higher rev limit on the same lifters going over than I don't think is good. Just stuff IMO.
__________________
2013 2SS/RS LS3 M6 ,CRT, NPP, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Mast windage, Cam Motion Cam, trunnion upgrade, Stainless Power headers HFC, CAI w/kit, Vmax PTD, Fluidampr25% udp, LPW diff cover, BMR strut brace,trailing arms, toes, bushings, Rocket racing wheels,Toyo Proxes 4+, elite catch can, clutch reservoir, dash/body LED, DRL rewire, Sparks billet badges, Forza 3way, tint, MRT louvers, ZL1 spoiler, MGW short throw, Monster dual LT1S clutch, bleeder, support, high vol pump, Speed hut shift light, ACC flames stripes, Driven ls30 oil, NGK TR6IX , Granatelli wires.
christianchevell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2018, 12:12 PM   #11
Russell James


 
Russell James's Avatar
 
Drives: two 5ths and a 1st
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,257
It may open the valve at first, until the lifter bleeds down into it's preload.

Are you tightening down the rockers in the right service manual sequence? Go slow on the bolt when it gets into the lifter preload, let it bleed down.

Sequence:

Engine on #1 cylinder TDC on #1 compression stroke
Tighten Rockers to 22 lb ft on valves:

Ex 1,2,7,8
In 1,3,4,5

Then rotate engine 360 deg and tighten

Ex 3,4,5,6
In 2,6,7,8

Then what you could do if you want to verify that your lifter preload is in the ballpark of .075" ish (which is about 1 turn on the rocker bolt). Check both the intake and exhaust on #1, when that lobe is on base circle.

Turn engine over by hand by the crank bold until #1 intake is all the way open. Then 360 deg more.... you are now on base circle for that lobe. Loosen the rocker bolt till you have lash. Slowly tighten until you have no lash clicking on the rocker at the pushrod tip. Now slowly tighten to 22 lb ft.

Did it take about 1 full rocker bolt turn past zero lash to tq? If yes, you are in the ballpark. Repeat with the Exh valve.

Not an exact measurement but it will tell you if you are in the ballpark. Such is if that ends up being 1/4 turn or 2 turns..... not the right length PRs. Close to 1 turn or a hair less, I'd call it good to go.
Russell James is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2018, 10:44 AM   #12
christianchevell
old school chevy rodder
 
christianchevell's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,807
Old school way was and is the EOIC method what Russels talking about the Exhaust open intake closed method... in one section of the rotation of the Cam your ready to do 1/2 the work...then you have to rotate to the other 1/2 ..and frankly its not exactly 360 degree turning the cam you looking for when a valve opens or closes....and I used to do the feel of the rocker when it would move for my old chevys, and of course tightening things up on a flat tappet easier also... Here even looked up a good old EOIC article for you and yes at one time I even had a set of valve covers with no tops on them I used for adjusting while running cars also...LOL fully how they included that its mainly for say a used engine with a little slop trying to see if you can get a little noise to go away on a otherwise healthy engine deal....( flat tappets did not always wear perfectly evenly etc).....

www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0702-camshaft/
__________________
2013 2SS/RS LS3 M6 ,CRT, NPP, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Mast windage, Cam Motion Cam, trunnion upgrade, Stainless Power headers HFC, CAI w/kit, Vmax PTD, Fluidampr25% udp, LPW diff cover, BMR strut brace,trailing arms, toes, bushings, Rocket racing wheels,Toyo Proxes 4+, elite catch can, clutch reservoir, dash/body LED, DRL rewire, Sparks billet badges, Forza 3way, tint, MRT louvers, ZL1 spoiler, MGW short throw, Monster dual LT1S clutch, bleeder, support, high vol pump, Speed hut shift light, ACC flames stripes, Driven ls30 oil, NGK TR6IX , Granatelli wires.
christianchevell is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.