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Old 03-05-2021, 05:54 PM   #57
CJ27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
Both of these unfortunate incidents sound like they have more to do with the movement of the oil than the oil itself.
I definitely recomend a better oil pump if you do a cam swap.
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Old 03-08-2021, 05:19 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
That is accurate. Here is the graph:
Sweet so the 10355 is definitely a step up. So the 10355 hv might be over kill or good reassurance?

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Originally Posted by Risingson05 View Post
I replaced my oil pump to a 10355 for my truck . From what I was told by tsp that stock oil pumps tend to cavitate and starts to aerate at Rpms above 5500rpms .
When it’s time to do my z I will be replacing my oil pump , as I’m changing the cam right from the get go, I’ll already be there , plan on cutting cross member and using that kit I bought from here to modify cross member to get the oil pan out . To me it’s just that much more extra insurance besides the pump is only like 200-300.00 from what I remember . I’ve also always ran driven ls-30 and I do have a mm catch can aswell .

I’ve been running cam and. Other bolt ons for my truck for over 3 years now
Sounds good to me. Guess I’ll def do the oil pump then!

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Originally Posted by CJ27 View Post
I definitely recomend a better oil pump if you do a cam swap.
10-4. I’ll get that when I get the cam.
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:03 PM   #59
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I think if your planning on changing your block to a 416 then I’d give melling a call and discuss with them what would work, as bearing clearances and such might change, which will effect your idle oil pressure . You just wanna make sure it won’t suck your oil pan dry .
If keeping stock , I’m running a stock 6qt oil pan in my truck and haven’t sucked it dry at all . I also made sure by asking melling aswell. My truck has a l92 .6.2
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:02 PM   #60
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It’s somewhat common in the Gen 3 blocks to spin a rod bearing turning high RPMs. The stock rod bolts stretch. I’ve done it in the burnout box at the drag strip. The 1hr tow home sucks LOL.
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Old 03-09-2021, 10:31 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Risingson05 View Post
I think if your planning on changing your block to a 416 then I’d give melling a call and discuss with them what would work, as bearing clearances and such might change, which will effect your idle oil pressure . You just wanna make sure it won’t suck your oil pan dry .
If keeping stock , I’m running a stock 6qt oil pan in my truck and haven’t sucked it dry at all . I also made sure by asking melling aswell. My truck has a l92 .6.2

I don't believe it's possible to overpump a hydraulic journal bearing with oil. Net oil pressure increases with a larger pump, but the net increase in the actual volume of flow is minimal because it is limited by the construction and clearance of the bearing. Also I don't think there is enough clearance space in every bearing and every oil gallery in the entire engine to accommodate 6-8 quarts of oil all at once.


I would welcome discussion if you know something about this that I don't.
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Old 03-09-2021, 10:52 AM   #62
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[QUOTE=Triple5even813;10969159]I don't believe it's possible to overpump a hydraulic journal bearing with oil. Net oil pressure increases with a larger pump, but the net increase in the actual volume of flow is minimal because it is limited by the construction and clearance of the bearing. Also I don't think there is enough clearance space in every bearing and every oil gallery in the entire engine to accommodate 6-8 quarts of oil all at once.


I would welcome discussion if you know something about this that I don’t know


I’ve never had first hand experience with tsp 416 or anything like that .I know it’s a striker motor but idk if the blocks are built the same . Choosing diff cranks and all that changes bearing clearances .

I was just stating to the op that it would be wise to call melling if he decides to switch to a 416 or something , just to make sure he’s got his basses covered for oiling ..

When I was researching for my oil pump for my truck I just wanted to make sure the pump didn’t pump faster than the oil returned to the pan or pumped my pan dry .. maybe it was from all the horror stories I’ve heard from the past about people sucking their oil pans dry running a high pressure pump ..

There’s quite abit literature over at Ls1tech about this .

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Old 03-09-2021, 11:08 AM   #63
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...g-pan-dry.html
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Old 03-09-2021, 11:37 AM   #64
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It is debatable tho. Many in both sides , some say it’s more for road racers or auto x ‘ers as they spent a lot of time in high rpm’s and into the twisties , so maybe their more prone to it that your average street car enthusiast.

I for one as a average car enthusiast would not like to find out the hard way . I try and do as much research as I can till I feel comfortable with some definite answers . Especially when it comes to oiling as one hiccup can damn near ruin your whole motor lol
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Old 03-24-2021, 11:36 AM   #65
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Finally got the car all finished and so far everything is running great. The guys at Dedicated Motorsports did a wonderful job. The car made 820rwhp on e85. The engine runs great and drives better than ever. The monster triple disc clutch is great too. But I think it is time to sale the car and get something stock to drive to work for a while.
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Old 03-24-2021, 01:57 PM   #66
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Finally got the car all finished and so far everything is running great. But I think it is time to sale the car and get something stock to drive to work for a while.
???

Really?
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Old 03-24-2021, 04:21 PM   #67
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???

Really?
Yes. Want something with a warrenty and nothing customized for a while.
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Old 03-28-2021, 01:08 PM   #68
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Yes. Want something with a warrenty and nothing customized for a while.

Haha, welcome to motor sports.
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Old 04-11-2021, 11:10 PM   #69
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Best of luck on it going forward, that’s a super shitty deal. Interested to see what failed and what direction you are taking in the future. Lots of different routes on this thread which is what I like and dislike about this forum..so many different people with different builds. Sucks to read some of these and see that I may have potentially missed good bolt-ons on my car. I like my Z but I feel like as soon as you touch anything on it there is a 100 parts that “should” go on for it to be safe. Some days I wish I had a C6Z with heads/cam that I never have to worry about..couple of my friends have them and they are insanely stout. I’ve seen a lot of guys running modded LSA’s without issue just gives me anxiety reading these posts.
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Old 04-12-2021, 05:53 AM   #70
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I like my Z but I feel like as soon as you touch anything on it there is a 100 parts that “should” go on for it to be safe. Some days I wish I had a C6Z with heads/cam that I never have to worry about..couple of my friends have them and they are insanely stout. I’ve seen a lot of guys running modded LSA’s without issue just gives me anxiety reading these posts.
Need not have any anxiety with the LSA...nor reading here. A little comprehension...perhaps inference is necessary some of the time as the whole story is not always posted.

If I were to guess, the two largest contributing factors were an insanely (to me) too high shift point (7k) and a questionable history. I only say questionable because the op purchased his Z w/ 37k miles with no history or maintenance logs. How do we know know the oil was changed more than once? Or with the proper oil? Or proper amount?

Then we can get into the tune. The OP wrote he sets the Z's point at 7K for all E85 bolt on Z's, and 7.4K for big cammed Z's. I think that's crazy and the tuner should rebuild his engine for free.

The LSA is insanely stout, and can take a lot more power. But a proper build and tuner is a must, and the hp, boost and rev's must all be limited if you desire longevity.
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