Complete brake failure at 145 MPH! - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

himmy33 · 09-11-2017, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

Like mentioned, thin pads will kill the caliper seals. Doesn't matter if you have the best fluid on earth if the caliper seals melt, done. If the powder coating shows signs of melting, the seals are probably also melted.

I'd rebuild the calipers with new seals. Add quantum ducts. Use Castrol SRF. I'd use OE Brembo pads, nothing wrong with them. If you go crazy aggressive on the pad, will really need to upgrade to a full race caliper. The race calipers are generally not powdercoated and no dust seals. The dust boots and powder coating can't handle race brake temps.

Do you or anyone know where I could get a rebuild kit for the calipers?

Synner · 09-11-2017, 04:58 PM

Inspect you brakes before you start buying stuff. Just because you overheated them doesn't mean they're cooked. Rock auto, AC Delco, and other places can get you rebuild kits.

himmy33 · 09-11-2017, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

Inspect you brakes before you start buying stuff. Just because you overheated them doesn't mean they're cooked. Rock auto, AC Delco, and other places can get you rebuild kits.

I plan to. Just curious if they do need to be rebuilt.

wernergmhtp · 09-13-2017, 09:38 PM

Subscribe. Interested in hearing the results of inspection

JTRATX · 09-15-2017, 09:01 AM

How much steering angle did you have when you spun? I'm guessing a slight angle mixed with just a little brake being applied to the front rotors transferred enough weight to the front to make the rear light and send you into the spin.
If your wheel was straight and you lost brakes you would normally go straight.

For the kind of weight of the car and speed that you were carrying at that particular track, race pads are the only thing to run, with SRF fluid. Be sure to bed in pads before the track event.

You also may have experienced pad knock back. Google it and watch some videos if you don't know what that is.

olblue75 · 09-15-2017, 11:01 AM

Look into the Z06 Non Ceramic Brake Caliper Pistons they are vented and supposed to be good for a 80 degree temp drop. They are the same size as the ZL1 calipers

QUICRNU · 09-15-2017, 06:48 PM

Wow man.....that seemed like she went sideways quick!!

himmy33 · 09-18-2017, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTRATX

How much steering angle did you have when you spun? I'm guessing a slight angle mixed with just a little brake being applied to the front rotors transferred enough weight to the front to make the rear light and send you into the spin.
If your wheel was straight and you lost brakes you would normally go straight.

For the kind of weight of the car and speed that you were carrying at that particular track, race pads are the only thing to run, with SRF fluid. Be sure to bed in pads before the track event.

You also may have experienced pad knock back. Google it and watch some videos if you don't know what that is.

Little to know steering angle. I believe I down shifted into 3rd from 5th therefore locking up the rear tires causing the slide.

himmy33 · 09-18-2017, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

Look into the Z06 Non Ceramic Brake Caliper Pistons they are vented and supposed to be good for a 80 degree temp drop. They are the same size as the ZL1 calipers

Thank you. I will look into it.

himmy33 · 09-18-2017, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QUICRNU

Wow man.....that seemed like she went sideways quick!!

Yes, it took me somewhat by surprise how fast things happen at 145. lol

Zl1dad · 09-18-2017, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

The thinner the pad the more heat gets transferred into the caliper and fluid. You're asking a crap ton of stock pads with ZL1 level speeds, you need an upgrade. I definitely like the SRF better than RBF600 and won't be going back. Stock rotors can be swapped out for the same, they're quite good. I'd get a real brake duct as well. I bleed after every weekend, some say it's overkill but I've drastically reduced any overheated brake issues I used to have prior to doing so.

Are you talking stock Zl1 pads on a zl1. My brembos do great. And have SRF as well. I had pedal go to the floor on 1st track day. Not cool!!. Luckily I was on the paddock at this point. I felt them getting squishy

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Synner · 09-18-2017, 08:03 PM

You had a brake failure from overworking them on your very first track day so that's outside my definition of greatness; it should be outside of yours too unless you don't value your life. There's far better pads than stock as it's a compromise street pad. While it's better than most factory pads it still can't handle the abuse of late braking or high speed tracks in a 2 ton pig with over 500hp. A pad change is cheap insurance to finish the day alive with my car in one piece.

toehead93 · 10-02-2017, 04:14 PM

I just upgraded to Corvette calipers/rotors and Endless pads with AFCO HTX which is about the same price as Motul but higher temps (wet 421 vs 401 and dry 618 vs 594). I did one event in Sebring 3 weeks ago on the full 12-hour course and an event this weekend at Daytona in the 24-hour course. I had a tire fail at Sebring so I didn't even make it half way through the second sesssion but I had no brake fade or fluid issues. I have the brake duct adaptors but no duct attached to them so they were not assisting in any cooling. At Daytona I was braking from 140-150 down at turn 2 to enter the infield portion and braking from over 120 to enter the bus stop. Again, no issues at all. that is some pretty serious braking and they handled well.

They are pricey pads but worth in IMO. Soft on rotors, long pad life and streetable. The unicorn of pads.

himmy33 · 10-02-2017, 05:25 PM

Just to give a little update. Went to a repair shop and they are about the same price if
I was going to do the work my self so I think I will be taking it to them. Just over $1k and its just some body panels. Basically just pull off the bad part on put on the new one (only one small piece needs paint. I haven't had a chance to get the car in the air yet and inspect stuff. The lift I use is my uncles and he just had shoulder surgery. I did have a chance to drive it around on some back roads and the car felt great. Didn't pull, stopped hard, fair amount of gravel and dirt rolling off from the under side lol. One wheel lost its balance weights so it vibrates a tad.I still need to get it in the air and check the brakes, change the pads and fluid. Hope to have this done in the next couple weeks. Will keep you guys updated.

09-13-2017, 09:38 PM	#18
wernergmhtp Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS/RS A6 Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: NC Posts: 119	Subscribe. Interested in hearing the results of inspection __________________ Chris Werner Author, "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines" Contributing Editor, GM High-Tech Performance (1998-2014)

09-15-2017, 11:01 AM	#20
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,061	Look into the Z06 Non Ceramic Brake Caliper Pistons they are vented and supposed to be good for a 80 degree temp drop. They are the same size as the ZL1 calipers __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

09-15-2017, 06:48 PM	#21
QUICRNU Drives: Z06 wannabe Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Daytona Beach, FL Posts: 1,200	Wow man.....that seemed like she went sideways quick!! __________________ Apex Focused

10-02-2017, 04:14 PM	#27
toehead93 Drives: 2014 2SS/1LE Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: wpb fl Posts: 3,136 View My Garage	I just upgraded to Corvette calipers/rotors and Endless pads with AFCO HTX which is about the same price as Motul but higher temps (wet 421 vs 401 and dry 618 vs 594). I did one event in Sebring 3 weeks ago on the full 12-hour course and an event this weekend at Daytona in the 24-hour course. I had a tire fail at Sebring so I didn't even make it half way through the second sesssion but I had no brake fade or fluid issues. I have the brake duct adaptors but no duct attached to them so they were not assisting in any cooling. At Daytona I was braking from 140-150 down at turn 2 to enter the infield portion and braking from over 120 to enter the bus stop. Again, no issues at all. that is some pretty serious braking and they handled well. They are pricey pads but worth in IMO. Soft on rotors, long pad life and streetable. The unicorn of pads. __________________ Used Racing Brake 2 Peice Rotors for sale: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344754 Summit White 2014 2SS 1LE Recaros, NPP exhaust, Nav 2010 2SS A6 - sold.

09-11-2017, 04:58 PM	#16
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	Inspect you brakes before you start buying stuff. Just because you overheated them doesn't mean they're cooked. Rock auto, AC Delco, and other places can get you rebuild kits.

09-15-2017, 09:01 AM	#19
JTRATX Drives: 17 SS 1LE, 14 Yukon Denali Join Date: May 2015 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 355	How much steering angle did you have when you spun? I'm guessing a slight angle mixed with just a little brake being applied to the front rotors transferred enough weight to the front to make the rear light and send you into the spin. If your wheel was straight and you lost brakes you would normally go straight. For the kind of weight of the car and speed that you were carrying at that particular track, race pads are the only thing to run, with SRF fluid. Be sure to bed in pads before the track event. You also may have experienced pad knock back. Google it and watch some videos if you don't know what that is.

09-18-2017, 08:03 PM	#26
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	You had a brake failure from overworking them on your very first track day so that's outside my definition of greatness; it should be outside of yours too unless you don't value your life. There's far better pads than stock as it's a compromise street pad. While it's better than most factory pads it still can't handle the abuse of late braking or high speed tracks in a 2 ton pig with over 500hp. A pad change is cheap insurance to finish the day alive with my car in one piece.

10-02-2017, 05:25 PM	#28
himmy33 Go Cougs! Drives: 2012 Ashen Gray ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Washington Posts: 230 View My Garage	Just to give a little update. Went to a repair shop and they are about the same price if I was going to do the work my self so I think I will be taking it to them. Just over $1k and its just some body panels. Basically just pull off the bad part on put on the new one (only one small piece needs paint. I haven't had a chance to get the car in the air yet and inspect stuff. The lift I use is my uncles and he just had shoulder surgery. I did have a chance to drive it around on some back roads and the car felt great. Didn't pull, stopped hard, fair amount of gravel and dirt rolling off from the under side lol. One wheel lost its balance weights so it vibrates a tad.I still need to get it in the air and check the brakes, change the pads and fluid. Hope to have this done in the next couple weeks. Will keep you guys updated.