crossmember brace - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

tartagliazl1 · 04-16-2024, 05:33 AM

Has anyone tried this crossmember brace? maybe its a good option to just cut off the factory brace under the oil pan for ease of pan removal. I have the brackets from cfd. just looking for a easier way to do it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15558849037...3ABFBMoIb95txj

0stones0 · 04-16-2024, 06:04 AM

Haven’t done anything to the factory brace but, looking at the one you have a link to makes me think, this is something I could build.

tartagliazl1 · 04-16-2024, 06:23 AM

Anyone can do this with ease. I question the strength of the brace. Will it be strong enough?

CamaroCracka · 04-16-2024, 02:09 PM

Looks like the Spohn brace with the two additional sides to make a triangle. It might be good if you wanted to cut out the cross member to remove the oil pan and not replace it. One guy did that with the Spohn brace and this gives one more point of attachment. Not sure if it does anything for performance.

SlowLS1 · 04-16-2024, 02:29 PM

I really can’t see that being as rigid as the existing cross member. Not a suitable alternative IMO.

trashbasket · 04-16-2024, 04:08 PM

I cut that off my car long ago. I kept it because of all the threads here wondering if it would hurt the car or be a problem. It hasn't made a lick of difference being off. My understanding is the Copo Camaro doesn't have it. I don't have it and running iron block on top with poly motor mounts. Again, can't tell what so ever. Flame me if you want but I don't get everyone's need to bolt it back on.

tartagliazl1 · 04-16-2024, 04:42 PM

It’s got to be better than not replacing it. But who knows like trashbasket said not on the copo car.

SlowLS1 · 04-16-2024, 04:56 PM

No flames from me. I’ve cut it off and will put it back on because I fabbed my own brackets. I think the car would be fine without it also. I do think the COPO car is a poor example. It only goes in a straight line. I think the cross member does contribute to stiffness in turns.

Agree it’s better than nothing, but still don’t think it’s a suitable replacement for the cross member.

Just my opinions and I have no evidence to suggest anything I just said is worth a crap.

tartagliazl1 · 04-16-2024, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowLS1

No flames from me. I’ve cut it off and will put it back on because I fabbed my own brackets. I think the car would be fine without it also. I do think the COPO car is a poor example. It only goes in a straight line. I think the cross member does contribute to stiffness in turns.

Agree it’s better than nothing, but still don’t think it’s a suitable replacement for the cross member.

Just my opinions and I have no evidence to suggest anything I just said is worth a crap.

You’re probably right. I’m no automotive structural engineer. If it was a house i can tell you yes or no. Copo is a straight line car. Would like to see how it moves while in the turns. I do have the bracket just trying to get the easy way out without welding.

olblue75 · 04-16-2024, 08:48 PM

No sure if anyone noticed but that part is photoshop’d onto the front end.

Soybeanrice · 04-16-2024, 10:19 PM

Skip the brace. You can cut out the cross member and fab on plates to make it "bolt on". Almost any fab shop w/ a lift can do this in minimal time.

It is a good idea for dropping the pan, but you wont find many situations where you need to drop the pan. You can do an entire cam swap without dropping the pan completely.

Merc · 04-16-2024, 10:20 PM

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I used the ones from CFD not that difficult if you have the right tools. You do have to slice the crossmember ends and squeese them smaller to get the flanges on though.

04-16-2024, 05:33 AM	#1
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 956	crossmember brace Has anyone tried this crossmember brace? maybe its a good option to just cut off the factory brace under the oil pan for ease of pan removal. I have the brackets from cfd. just looking for a easier way to do it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/15558849037...3ABFBMoIb95txj __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

04-16-2024, 06:04 AM	#2
0stones0 It don’t come easy. Drives: 2010 2SS RS M6 Join Date: May 2014 Location: WI Posts: 2,211 View My Garage	Haven’t done anything to the factory brace but, looking at the one you have a link to makes me think, this is something I could build. __________________

04-16-2024, 06:23 AM	#3
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 956	Anyone can do this with ease. I question the strength of the brace. Will it be strong enough? __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

04-16-2024, 02:09 PM	#4
CamaroCracka Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 2,736	Looks like the Spohn brace with the two additional sides to make a triangle. It might be good if you wanted to cut out the cross member to remove the oil pan and not replace it. One guy did that with the Spohn brace and this gives one more point of attachment. Not sure if it does anything for performance. __________________ 2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes. 2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes.

04-16-2024, 02:29 PM	#5
SlowLS1 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 842	I really can’t see that being as rigid as the existing cross member. Not a suitable alternative IMO. __________________

04-16-2024, 04:08 PM	#6
trashbasket Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Dec 2022 Location: SC Posts: 82	I cut that off my car long ago. I kept it because of all the threads here wondering if it would hurt the car or be a problem. It hasn't made a lick of difference being off. My understanding is the Copo Camaro doesn't have it. I don't have it and running iron block on top with poly motor mounts. Again, can't tell what so ever. Flame me if you want but I don't get everyone's need to bolt it back on. __________________ 2010 SS / 376 LSX / AGP Twin Turbo / 910whp 954wtq

04-16-2024, 04:42 PM	#7
tartagliazl1 Drives: 2013 zl1 vert Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Rochester, New york Posts: 956	It’s got to be better than not replacing it. But who knows like trashbasket said not on the copo car. __________________ 22% lower/ 2.5 upper/ 2” headers/ cat delete/ x-pipe/ 2 gallon x tank/ 100-3 pump/ fic 850/ dsx aux kit/ 103mm throttle body/ RPM 5” intake/ meth kit/ prometh lid injection/FI interchiller/ 160* stat/ ngk-7/ msd wires/ elite catch can/ tsp cam/ Che trunnions/ ported supercharger/ 1/2” lid spacer/ brick mod/BMR toe and trailing arms/ 751hp 757 tq SAE @17.3lb on a loaded dyno.

04-16-2024, 04:56 PM	#8
SlowLS1 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 842	No flames from me. I’ve cut it off and will put it back on because I fabbed my own brackets. I think the car would be fine without it also. I do think the COPO car is a poor example. It only goes in a straight line. I think the cross member does contribute to stiffness in turns. Agree it’s better than nothing, but still don’t think it’s a suitable replacement for the cross member. Just my opinions and I have no evidence to suggest anything I just said is worth a crap. __________________

04-16-2024, 08:48 PM	#10
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,064	No sure if anyone noticed but that part is photoshop’d onto the front end. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

04-16-2024, 10:19 PM	#11
Soybeanrice Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 793	Skip the brace. You can cut out the cross member and fab on plates to make it "bolt on". Almost any fab shop w/ a lift can do this in minimal time. It is a good idea for dropping the pan, but you wont find many situations where you need to drop the pan. You can do an entire cam swap without dropping the pan completely.

04-16-2024, 10:20 PM	#12
Merc In The Circle Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 11,292	I used the ones from CFD not that difficult if you have the right tools. You do have to slice the crossmember ends and squeese them smaller to get the flanges on though. __________________ My Build Thread