02-17-2018, 10:45 AM | #757 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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02-20-2018, 07:57 PM | #758 |
Allergic to stupid.
Drives: 2015 ZL1 #957 M6 AGM & 1990 Z24 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 368
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I just spent the better part of an hour reading through this thread. I drive a 2015 ZL1 with all OE suspension components. The only difference in running gear is a 315/35 rear tire, currently Michelin Pilot Super Sport. I will probably switch to Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 to try and mitigate costs. I probably drive 70% street, still taking corners more aggressively than most. The other 30% is 12 autocross events a year and 3-4 honest hours of road course time annually. My alignment is untouched and I don't know yet what the actual values are. My front tires show more wear outside than inside and understeer is my main concern. It appears that I would benefit from the following specs.
Front camber -1.5 deg Front toe 0.0 Rear camber -0.5 max Rear toe +0.12 deg Let me know if I'm on the right track as I plan to get the car on the rack before I get much deeper in the season. And Pete, I started at the Camarocross at the 2015 Camaro Fest in BG, so it's your fault I autocross regularly now.
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Last edited by p3jason; 02-20-2018 at 08:09 PM. |
02-20-2018, 09:15 PM | #759 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
You are on the right path with your alignment spec. Add a 32mn rear bar and tear it up at the CamaroCross in BG this year! |
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02-22-2018, 01:23 PM | #760 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro 1LE Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Houston
Posts: 79
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JP, I would like to second the 32MM rear bar. I bought one for my 2014 1LE and took it back to the autocross after running 6 or more events prior. I could not believe how much difference it made. The car has no understeer, and just feels way more balanced than with the stock 1LE bar. No more plowing into the turns for me! Question is now what to do with the old 1LE bar.....
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02-23-2018, 09:55 AM | #761 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
Sell it to an on the budget build Camaro owner for use with the skinny OEM front bar |
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02-23-2018, 01:42 PM | #762 | |
Drives: 2012 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 388
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Rear Bar
Quote:
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Victory Red 2012 2SS/RS LS3 Camaro
Pat G. Spec Cam from Cam Motion 228/236 .599/.599 112+2LSA Kooks 1-7/8" LTs w/ Cats Roto-Fab, Bo White TB, Borla Touring Catback 3.91 1LE Gears, MGW Tuned by Pat G |
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02-23-2018, 09:01 PM | #763 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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We'll there you go.
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08-15-2018, 08:51 AM | #764 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 10
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I have 1" lowering springs and can't seem to get my alignment correct. The rear camber is -2.0° on the left and -0.8° and it's really chewing up my 22" tires. No shop that I've taken it to has been able to correct the left wheel, and I'm at a loss for what to try. I have the camber adjustment bolts already, and was thinking that maybe one of the control arms is bent even though they visually look fine. Without changing springs, what other areas could be causing one side to be that far out?
Would camber/caster plates help? What about re clocking the bushings? Maybe adjustable control arms? Last edited by Urbanizer; 08-15-2018 at 10:22 AM. |
08-15-2018, 10:42 AM | #765 |
Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 931
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There are no camber plates available for the rear of this car.
There should be no issue getting more than -0.8° negative camber with 1" springs. I would verify that the install was done correctly and that the spring is sitting properly, and then time the bushings. The rear camber is adjusted via the inner bolts of the lower control arms. Not sure what camber bolts you have but unless they allow more movement than the factory ones (bolt shaft closer to the edge of the washer) then what you can do - besides getting different bolts like from JPSS - is to drill/grind out the elongated hole for the bolt to allow for even more movement. If all else fails, perhaps something is bent. Have you hit any large potholes or curbs ever? Rear-end accident?
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Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
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08-15-2018, 11:35 AM | #766 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 10
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Thanks for the suggestions, I don't know 100% that the bushing were timed so I will start there.
How can I tell what camber bolts will give me the most adjustment? JPSS rates them in degrees of adjustment (1.8°) but isn't that directly related to the bolt's length? I'm trying to determine what I have on now vs what I would need. I did have a pretty big curb hit 4 years ago, but nothing appears bent so I'm hesitant to just start replacing everything down there. I was leaning towards getting shorter aftermarket control arms, but feel like adding a degree of camber doesn't warrant such a big purchase. |
08-15-2018, 02:05 PM | #767 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Have your alignment tech turn the Toe Eccentric to a neutral position, the eccentric not touching the fences on either side used for adjusstment. If they cannot get to the same number as the opposite side, check for a bent link. We chased on a few weeks ago, couldn't figure it out. When we decided to upgrade to Z/28 trailing arms, we found the tup portion of the OE arm was bent.
Know that we were looking for a bent arm. From the bottom it looked fin. It was twisted on the top, not visible from the bottom even when we were looking for damage. |
08-15-2018, 02:19 PM | #768 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 10
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hmm good idea. The rear toe right now is -0.14° L and 0.17°R which is pretty wonky so something probably is bent; if we can't find it by inspection should I disassemble and take a closer look?
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12-22-2018, 11:29 PM | #769 |
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I am looking for the stock ride height of my 2010 SS. Installed coil overs. Dropped it to low. Have it set at 29in all around from floor to top of outside wheel well, top center.
20" tires. Looking for an hour. Cannot locate.
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Update...Build in process, Forged Rods, Pistons and rings, Johnson Lifters, NOVI1500 ECS SC, 13lb boost or more, LS3 Conversion 114/228/241 COMP CAM, Frostbite 4 row Aluminum radiator, 6L80 built, Circle D 6L80 PRO SERIES MULTI 258MM 2D, Stock 3.45 gears, 1-7/8 American Racing Headers w/HF cat, X-Pipe, Lingenfelter dual fuel pump, E-85 flex sensor, ATI super damper pulley, Ported TB, 160 therm, Trans cooler, Pedder's sways/end links/sub frame bushings, BMR trailing arms & toe rods, Coil overs. HP/TQ pending
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12-23-2018, 07:27 AM | #770 | |
corner barstool sitter
Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Time Zone
Posts: 6,990
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Quote:
It's from a question posed for a 2010 SS. Measuring from the wheel's flange ("lip") takes the messy matter of actual tire sidewall height (tire profile, actual height, actual inflation pressure, etc.) out of the equation Norm
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'08 GT coupe 5M (the occasional track toy)
'19 WRX 6M (the family sedan . . . seriously) |
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