09-08-2017, 01:27 PM | #1 |
Drives: '13 LS, '09 Forester, '11 HD SGlide Join Date: Jul 2017
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Self tinting side windows - how difficult?
Hey all,
Thinking at some point I'd like to tint the side windows to something a little darker (will have to look at what MA law allows, but not thinking anything crazy). I've seen self tint rolls at local parts stores before. Good, bad or indifferent opinions for those who have tried? I'm guessing the back "windows" would be done for asthetics? The rear window would or wouldn't? With the rear defroster you almost always see bubbles in them.
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09-08-2017, 01:29 PM | #2 |
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https://www.windowtint.com/pages/massachusetts for the law
As for how easy, that I can't answer as I've never had my windows tinted. Bought my car used and it was already done. Am planning on taking my wife's Focus to one of the local shops to get hers done though.
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09-08-2017, 01:36 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Would never get anywhere near that anyway.
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09-08-2017, 04:56 PM | #4 | |
Drives: Iron Lung, Jimmy Join Date: Jun 2009
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Quote:
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09-08-2017, 05:12 PM | #5 |
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I have tinted windows and it is not bad. Seems the biggest mistake I hear is people don't pre shrink their film on the exterior of window before installing inside. Would not recommend trying to tint rear window of Camaro5 if you don't have any experience.
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09-08-2017, 05:33 PM | #6 |
old school chevy rodder
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Keeping a absolutely clean work area to avoid contamination is the biggest problem along with having to properly go from the center of a sheet out, I have done it before to other rides with varying results but over time they have developed better film than say the 70's....LOL But I still used a service I think it was only 150.00 and life time warranty and comes with a certificate of legality to keep in the glove box, and liked the results so well I had them do my flames also from ACC . Having a heat gun is also a thing that's crucial and knowing the material and how much you can heat it or stretch if needed and making corners is art sort of and you have to do the perfect cuts and shrinking in the right places and corners/ changes in surface/ edges ; bending with heating essential and working with a squeegee that's a plastic wedge required..... Also cutting along the edge of a window with a sharp razor blade to cut the excess off on sheets after fitting to the window and adhesion via squeegee is best done carefully moving the razor along the curved edge of the window as edges are curved on the window and you cannot have any extra out to possibly peal but just a perfect fit and trim with excess bubbles worked out...........Basically a clean place and what I have said for skills with a good spray bottle of mild soapy water and razor knives is how I have done it but with the price being so low I knew I would rather have it done as I have no heat gun let alone a clean environment in my car port....And we have all seen over time the lousy jobs some have done with their bubble wrapped cars basically as they have crappy tint jobs; all not adhered to the window but in places and allowed to dry most likely with excess air underneath to leave it non adhered with a lousy adhesion agent to create the bubbles from hell.... also a sign of a aging bad job.
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09-08-2017, 10:11 PM | #7 | |
"BEASTM*DE"
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Quote:
I would also suggest that you have the tint professionally install...Average cost $150.00 for side and rear window's...
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09-09-2017, 09:09 AM | #8 |
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Thanks guys. Figured there was a lot to it.
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09-09-2017, 09:45 AM | #9 |
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I used to do it with my buddies back in high school, with every car we could get our hands on. The biggest issues are cleanliness and patience. A steady hand with the exacto knife is necessary too. Like was said above, keeping out all the dust and dirt is a must as well as all of the bubbles.
Other than that it's not too bad, just look up some you-tube vids; i'm sure there are plenty out there. One other thing is the material you use. I'm sure there are some threads around here on window tinting and the best tint to use. I had mine professionally done with 3M (50%), top quality... I expect it to last for life.
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09-10-2017, 11:12 AM | #10 |
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Its one of those things best done by a pro
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09-10-2017, 03:23 PM | #11 |
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The Gila River and other products you can find at the auto parts stores is junk. The film is thin and easy to crease when applying - crease = 'lightning bolt designs' in the applied film that will never go away and usually will be the first places to lift over time.
3M, Madico, and other professional films are typically sold to tint professionals, and hard to find for the end-user/buyer. Not to mention, most tint professionals worth their salt will have computerized plotter/cutters with stencils for any car out there to pre-cut the film before applying. Cutting-in the film right on the car is rarely necessary, and oh-so-much of a PITA to get it right every time (unless you're a pro and have done lots of the same type cars). I've done probably 50-60 cars over the years so I know what I'm doing... but I can't always guarantee the same results as a professional, since the glass shapes differ from car to car. I would also recommend just having it professionally done as well - to ensure the best results and even secure some kind of installation warranty (against lifting, bubbles, etc.). And yes, the lower the number, the darker the tint. Federal limit on passenger windows (fronts - as in, the doors) is 35%, but the individual states might allow even darker... everything else is fair game. For instance, I had 5% (limo tint) on my '82 Mustang while stationed in New Mexico - it was legal there, but had some issues when I visited my home state of Utah (which is 35% on passenger windows). My wife had 35/20/20 on her '01 Grand Prix (front/quarters/rear window), and had issues in Georgia (the cop was just targeting her because of the Texas plates passing through, I'm sure - no ticket, though). |
09-10-2017, 08:13 PM | #12 |
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I've done
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09-10-2017, 08:17 PM | #13 |
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I've done many old cars, but struggled with newer stuff with curved glass. I bought a kit of pre cut film online for my 2013 and struggled with the doors and rear window. Ended up taking it to a pro. Could not get the creases / bubbles out. Not sure what the trick is...
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09-11-2017, 12:26 AM | #14 |
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As stated before, you need a good heat gun, quality razor knife and quality film. I swear by Suntec. It doesn't fade and is a bit easier to work with than others. You have to cut it to fit inside of the border of your glass first and for the back glass, you have to heat and stretch it out to it is a perfect negative of the outside shape. Having a second set of hands reeeeally helps out. I so concurr that it's better left to a professional. I used to have a friend who was very good at it. He is who showed me the Suntec brand of film. He's so good, he did my 99 Taurus in one shot with no bubbles, dirt or creases. And that is a super difficult back glass to do because it has a triple curve to it.
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