Want to buy LT headers....Do I need a new fuel pump or ???

[Z71456]

Hey Everyone,

I'm at the point now where I really want to pull the trigger on some LT headers, but I'm not sure what to do about fuel. I currently have a TVS 2300, CAI, and 3" catback. Last dyno pull at Stillen made 534HP/488TQ. I really want to start climbing that ladder towards 600WHP, but I'm stumped. I've been told different things from different places and I'd like to hear the opinions of those that have "been there, done that" on here. One shop told me a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump would be fine. Another told me they are unreliable. Another shop said I should go with dual pump like the one from the ZR1 and another said I don't need anything. In addition, I'm not sure which headers either (Kooks, Dynatech, ARH, etc) for the money, but that's another story.

I'm sure this has been discussed before so I apologize if I'm beating a dead horse. I would just like to get your opinions since literally each shop is telling me something different and I don't know who to believe.

Thanks!

[bob vogel]

Originally Posted by Z71456

Hey Everyone,

I'm at the point now where I really want to pull the trigger on some LT headers, but I'm not sure what to do about fuel. I currently have a TVS 2300, CAI, and 3" catback. Last dyno pull at Stillen made 534HP/488TQ. I really want to start climbing that ladder towards 600WHP, but I'm stumped. I've been told different things from different places and I'd like to hear the opinions of those that have "been there, done that" on here. One shop told me a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump would be fine. Another told me they are unreliable. Another shop said I should go with dual pump like the one from the ZR1 and another said I don't need anything. In addition, I'm not sure which headers either (Kooks, Dynatech, ARH, etc) for the money, but that's another story.

I'm sure this has been discussed before so I apologize if I'm beating a dead horse. I would just like to get your opinions since literally each shop is telling me something different and I don't know who to believe.

Thanks!

I have done the same work to my car and I'm in the same spot as you.I have heard the same story. I'll be anxious to hear what you all have to say. I have an L99 with 493rwhp. Stillen told me I have to have a fuel pump when I put on the lth so that's the next set for me. Good luck

[turbo222]

Subscribed!!

HEY! and by the way i think i remember you from in front of Wheel and tire connection in lake forest...i was driving the white camaro ss and i was getting your same rims!!

im about to pull the trigger on a tvs 2300 as well and im curious to know what do do in this situation as well because i have Kooks 1 7/8ths headers AND LOVE THEM!!!

do you want me to post a clip?

Evan

[victoryred1ss]

Originally Posted by Z71456

Hey Everyone,

I'm at the point now where I really want to pull the trigger on some LT headers, but I'm not sure what to do about fuel. I currently have a TVS 2300, CAI, and 3" catback. Last dyno pull at Stillen made 534HP/488TQ. I really want to start climbing that ladder towards 600WHP, but I'm stumped. I've been told different things from different places and I'd like to hear the opinions of those that have "been there, done that" on here. One shop told me a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump would be fine. Another told me they are unreliable. Another shop said I should go with dual pump like the one from the ZR1 and another said I don't need anything. In addition, I'm not sure which headers either (Kooks, Dynatech, ARH, etc) for the money, but that's another story.

I'm sure this has been discussed before so I apologize if I'm beating a dead horse. I would just like to get your opinions since literally each shop is telling me something different and I don't know who to believe.

Thanks!

Drop down to a 3.6 pulley, add some LT headers an Msd boost a pump then retune. That is my opinion.

[Ltdodge]

Originally Posted by victoryred1ss

Drop down to a 3.6 pulley, add some LT headers an Msd boost a pump then retune. That is my opinion.

ditto...thats what i did with my setup and got the pump and tune from Ted Jannetti...

[GTAHVIT]

Seems the common thought is when you get over 550 people start to help out the fuel system.

the KB boost a pump has been successfully used by Lingenfelter. and the MSD booster is pretty reliable as well.

I do know there are quite a few cars out there with no extra fuel pumps running over 6 to the wheels.

If you have the money I'd add the fuel pump booster just in case. Better that then a blown engine cus it leaned out.

FWIW.

[Z71456]

Yeah, I would definitely add more fuel, but just wasn't too keen on the idea of adding a $1000 fuel pump. MSD might be the ticket. They make great products.

[audiomikej]

Livernois has a drop-in dual pump for $899. I am leery of the voltage boosters as well. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road because fuel pump booster failed or the pump failed from the voltage boost. With that said I can't guarantee the aftermarket dual pump is OEM reliable either.

[Detoxx03]

Would you rather pay 8-1K for a pump and be safe or take the risk of blowing your motor and spend 15-20K?

[Frost]

RPM made 763 RWHP on an F1 procharged 2010 and the only changes to fuel system (incredibly) were a boost a pump and 63#ers!

[Andy@Livernois]

Originally Posted by Steve@TunedbyFrost

RPM made 763 RWHP on an F1 procharged 2010 and the only changes to fuel system (incredibly) were a boost a pump and 63#ers!

but with how much pressure drop? generally speaking we recommend a BAP up to about 575rwhp on an auto, and 610rwhp on a manual trans car. anything after this we install our Dual pump with a BAP. Now in regards to the reliability of a BAP. I strongly feel this depends on how high you have it turned up (we don't go past 40%) and how well the install was done. In the 5+ years of working here I have seen 4 bad BAP, 3 of which were dead right out of the package, so I have only seen one actually fail with day to day usage. However, we purposely install the BAP in such a way that it is easily bypassed so you should never be stranded due to a failure.

[bob vogel]

Originally Posted by Andy@Livernois

but with how much pressure drop? generally speaking we recommend a BAP up to about 575rwhp on an auto, and 610rwhp on a manual trans car. anything after this we install our Dual pump with a BAP. Now in regards to the reliability of a BAP. I strongly feel this depends on how high you have it turned up (we don't go past 40%) and how well the install was done. In the 5+ years of working here I have seen 4 bad BAP, 3 of which were dead right out of the package, so I have only seen one actually fail with day to day usage. However, we purposely install the BAP in such a way that it is easily bypassed so you should never be stranded due to a failure.

thanks for the info. this is a big help.

[Frost]

Originally Posted by Andy@Livernois

but with how much pressure drop? generally speaking we recommend a BAP up to about 575rwhp on an auto, and 610rwhp on a manual trans car. anything after this we install our Dual pump with a BAP. Now in regards to the reliability of a BAP. I strongly feel this depends on how high you have it turned up (we don't go past 40%) and how well the install was done. In the 5+ years of working here I have seen 4 bad BAP, 3 of which were dead right out of the package, so I have only seen one actually fail with day to day usage. However, we purposely install the BAP in such a way that it is easily bypassed so you should never be stranded due to a failure.

Their threads are on a different board. They said fuel pressure was solid and they spent a lot of time looking at it carefully. We did an RHS 6-bolt 427 (2010SS) with a 2300 spun up to 15psi with twin pumps but the install time was quite high for many people.