Oil Change: How to Help-Please - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Stephen12ZL1 · 05-28-2016, 04:24 PM

you don't need any pics...this procedure is self explanatory. Remove the belly pan and drain the oil via the two sump plugs and R&R filter.

Hunt-man · 05-30-2016, 05:14 PM

You were correct it was easy. I did the rear dif and the oil change today. I'm going to post my how to notes although much of this has been posted already.

I built some ramps from 2x6 boards. The bottom piece should be about 4 1/2 feet. I did mine a bit short at 4'. I left about 10" for each step up but shorter as they went up. I needed four levels. Three was just too tight for the oil change to have room to work. Of course chock the wheels and e brake on etc.

Make sure the spoiler will clear the steps / spacing you choose.

Hunt-man · 05-30-2016, 05:21 PM

The rear dif was super easy. I backed up on the ramps, only needed three boards. Use a 3/8" ratchet and a 12" extension. Two plugs, one comes out with just the ratchet, the other the extension works. You'll need just over a quart of the 75/90. I used the Mobile 1 synthetic gear LS. I was told that had the limited slip additive in it. You'll need a hand pump to get the lube in. Again, super easy.

Hunt-man · 05-30-2016, 05:34 PM

The oil change is a bit more challenging but not hard. The main issue is room under the car. Really wish I had a lift, it would be easy.

There are five silver bolts behind the front splitter, that hold the front of the belly pan on. 10mm bolts. Remove the five silver bolts. There are another 10 or so black 10mm bolts that hold the pan on as you work back. An angle driver / drill works great.

There are two friction / push in pull out plastic attachment points at the very back of the pan. The previously mentioned pry tool worked great.

Once you get the pan out of the way, there are two drain plugs. They are both 15mm and easy to get at with a socket wrench. I pulled the one towards the front first and most of the 10qts came out. Pulled the 2nd and a bunch more oil came out. The oil filter is right there. A 76mm Oil Filter Cap Wrench is the perfect tool.

I had to go with a Mobil 1 filter but it looked identical to the standard filter.

It took all 10qts. I think it would take another 1/4 quart. Costco has the Mobile 1 5w/30 oil.

chip4 · 05-30-2016, 07:01 PM

When I did mine -I drained the front plug first then the second (rear) tends to hit the crossmember while draining. I lifted mine from the front pinch points with two floorjacks (a little at a time), then secured with jackstands. I lowered the front back down and no more oil came out -So next time Ill just drain it with the front lifted.

This hand pump works great for the Transmission and Diff.
http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu...ilpage_o07_s00

VegasZL1 · 05-31-2016, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

You need to get two quarts but it only takes a little over a quart...like 1.2 or so. Synthetic Axle Lubricant 75W-90, GM P/N 88900401. You can also add the additive Add 3.3 Oz (98mL) LSD additive GM P/N 88900330

FYI -

GM does not recommend using the Slip Additive in our Z/28's unless you're bothered by the noise the rear diff makes at low speeds. They claim it actually reduces torque delivery during aggressive cornering.

Hunt-man · 05-31-2016, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VegasZL1

FYI -

GM does not recommend using the Slip Additive in our Z/28's unless you're bothered by the noise the rear diff makes at low speeds. They claim it actually reduces torque delivery during aggressive cornering.

That's good to know. The noise at low speed doesn't bother me at all. I will see if it sounds any different now. Track day on Friday!

CAP'N B · 02-02-2017, 02:51 PM

I just did the differential oil change, In my manual it listed the 6.2(L99, LS3) & 7.0 at 1 quart, Check to make sure U not looking up ZL1 as it has a bigger rear differential for the extra HP

hjdca · 02-02-2017, 03:04 PM

On my first oil change, I put in two "goldplug" magnetic drain plug bolts, high quality, made in USA, powerful magnets. You can find goldplug online. We will see what they grabbed at the next oil change.

I use those new super long, super wide race ramps (raises the bottom of the wheel 10") with the race ramp extension to reduce the angle to 6 degrees. Super expensive, but, super fast and safe....

The_Raging_Bull · 02-02-2017, 10:37 PM

Fill only thru the the dry sump. If you want horror stories search Corvette Forum for folks whose C6 Z06's had a grage or worse a stealership add oil through the valave heads instead of the dry sump, and ended up with the oil change hydrolocking the engine.
see horror stories here http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...nightmare.html
and here:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...il-change.html

this is from corvette forum on how to change a dry sump...
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ump-specs.html
and from Halltech performance:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...procedure.html

Og Neon · 02-04-2017, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hunt-man

The only problem is they recommend the 15-50 be removed after the track time. That's a lot of oil and filter changing. Not supposed to drive it at all with the 15-50 on the street.

I just went to my first track day. It was in the 60's for a high temp so I decided to go easy and just run the 5-30 in it.

I'm thinking for hot summer track days I'll put the 15-50 and the PF64. But I'm not sure what to do if I want to drive it anywhere else, around town. Warm it up really well?

I think 15-50 is fine to drive on. Where did you read that we are not suppose to drive on the 15-50?

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 02-04-2017, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hjdca

On my first oil change, I put in two "goldplug" magnetic drain plug bolts, high quality, made in USA, powerful magnets. You can find goldplug online. We will see what they grabbed at the next oil change.

I use those new super long, super wide race ramps (raises the bottom of the wheel 10") with the race ramp extension to reduce the angle to 6 degrees. Super expensive, but, super fast and safe....

do you have a part # for the plugs?

Hunt-man · 02-04-2017, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Og Neon

I think 15-50 is fine to drive on. Where did you read that we are not suppose to drive on the 15-50?

I live in Portland, OR. Its a bit colder up here. The dealership was quite against 15-50 for daily driving.

D2M · 02-04-2017, 03:21 PM

I live in NJ and it gets pretty cold here in the winter and pretty hot and humid in the summer. I tried 15W50 once and the engine sounded like a diesel ( lifter noise ) until the oil got hot. I also took foreeeeevvver to get the oil to temp. I now use 5W30 all year round, track / street. I had the oil over 300°F and it still had decent pressure. In a warm climate 15W50 may be the way to go..

05-28-2016, 04:24 PM	#15
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,809	you don't need any pics...this procedure is self explanatory. Remove the belly pan and drain the oil via the two sump plugs and R&R filter. __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

05-30-2016, 05:14 PM	#16
Hunt-man Drives: 2015 Z28 + Piper Comanche Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: PDX Posts: 227	You were correct it was easy. I did the rear dif and the oil change today. I'm going to post my how to notes although much of this has been posted already. I built some ramps from 2x6 boards. The bottom piece should be about 4 1/2 feet. I did mine a bit short at 4'. I left about 10" for each step up but shorter as they went up. I needed four levels. Three was just too tight for the oil change to have room to work. Of course chock the wheels and e brake on etc. Make sure the spoiler will clear the steps / spacing you choose. Last edited by Hunt-man; 05-30-2016 at 05:35 PM.

05-30-2016, 05:34 PM	#18
Hunt-man Drives: 2015 Z28 + Piper Comanche Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: PDX Posts: 227	The oil change is a bit more challenging but not hard. The main issue is room under the car. Really wish I had a lift, it would be easy. There are five silver bolts behind the front splitter, that hold the front of the belly pan on. 10mm bolts. Remove the five silver bolts. There are another 10 or so black 10mm bolts that hold the pan on as you work back. An angle driver / drill works great. There are two friction / push in pull out plastic attachment points at the very back of the pan. The previously mentioned pry tool worked great. Once you get the pan out of the way, there are two drain plugs. They are both 15mm and easy to get at with a socket wrench. I pulled the one towards the front first and most of the 10qts came out. Pulled the 2nd and a bunch more oil came out. The oil filter is right there. A 76mm Oil Filter Cap Wrench is the perfect tool. I had to go with a Mobil 1 filter but it looked identical to the standard filter. It took all 10qts. I think it would take another 1/4 quart. Costco has the Mobile 1 5w/30 oil. Last edited by Hunt-man; 05-30-2016 at 05:46 PM.

05-30-2016, 07:01 PM	#19
chip4 Drives: 2015 Z/28 Silver #713 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Gilbert AZ Posts: 151	When I did mine -I drained the front plug first then the second (rear) tends to hit the crossmember while draining. I lifted mine from the front pinch points with two floorjacks (a little at a time), then secured with jackstands. I lowered the front back down and no more oil came out -So next time Ill just drain it with the front lifted. This hand pump works great for the Transmission and Diff. http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu...ilpage_o07_s00 Last edited by chip4; 05-30-2016 at 07:14 PM.

02-02-2017, 02:51 PM	#22
CAP'N B Cajun Mariner Drives: 10 Camaro SS/RS 15 Camaro Z/82 AGM Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Real Cajun,Golden Meadow, LA. Posts: 673 View My Garage	I just did the differential oil change, In my manual it listed the 6.2(L99, LS3) & 7.0 at 1 quart, Check to make sure U not looking up ZL1 as it has a bigger rear differential for the extra HP __________________ '10 Camaro 2SS/RS Red Jewel VVTLS3/A6 '15Camaro Z/28* Ashen Gray*

05-30-2016, 05:21 PM	#17
Hunt-man Drives: 2015 Z28 + Piper Comanche Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: PDX Posts: 227	The rear dif was super easy. I backed up on the ramps, only needed three boards. Use a 3/8" ratchet and a 12" extension. Two plugs, one comes out with just the ratchet, the other the extension works. You'll need just over a quart of the 75/90. I used the Mobile 1 synthetic gear LS. I was told that had the limited slip additive in it. You'll need a hand pump to get the lube in. Again, super easy.

02-02-2017, 03:04 PM	#23
hjdca Drives: 2015 Z/28 Black Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 340	On my first oil change, I put in two "goldplug" magnetic drain plug bolts, high quality, made in USA, powerful magnets. You can find goldplug online. We will see what they grabbed at the next oil change. I use those new super long, super wide race ramps (raises the bottom of the wheel 10") with the race ramp extension to reduce the angle to 6 degrees. Super expensive, but, super fast and safe.... __________________ 2015 Black Z/28 70 Chevelle SS396 01 M3, 88 Land Cruiser

02-02-2017, 10:37 PM	#24
The_Raging_Bull Raging Bull Reborn Drives: '09 CGM Z063LZ '15 RH Z/28 #0631 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Broken Arrow OK Posts: 765 View My Garage	Fill only thru the the dry sump. If you want horror stories search Corvette Forum for folks whose C6 Z06's had a grage or worse a stealership add oil through the valave heads instead of the dry sump, and ended up with the oil change hydrolocking the engine. see horror stories here http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...nightmare.html and here: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...il-change.html this is from corvette forum on how to change a dry sump... http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ump-specs.html and from Halltech performance: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...procedure.html __________________ Toy 1 '15 RH Z/28 w/AC & Radio S/N 0631 Toy 2 '09 CGM Z06 3LZ My DD: '17 Ford Mustang GT Her DD: '14 F150 Ecoboost 3.5

02-04-2017, 03:21 PM	#28
D2M Drives: Z/28 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: NJ Posts: 538	I live in NJ and it gets pretty cold here in the winter and pretty hot and humid in the summer. I tried 15W50 once and the engine sounded like a diesel ( lifter noise ) until the oil got hot. I also took foreeeeevvver to get the oil to temp. I now use 5W30 all year round, track / street. I had the oil over 300°F and it still had decent pressure. In a warm climate 15W50 may be the way to go..