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Old 06-20-2011, 01:46 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TJ91 View Post
got quoted an extra $50 to do this. Does that sound reasonable? Wish I could do this on my driveway.


And thanks soo much for this thread as it is EXTREMELY HELPFUL!!!
$50 isn't too bad. It's just a few more bolts to loosen and tighten but it's invaluable when you don't own a lift. I would say go for it.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:29 PM   #16
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Wow, OP, great post!

My only question is, during assembly at the factory, the weight of the car is not on the suspension. Does that mean that, from a performance/longevity standpoint, all vehicles would benefit from "re-clocking" the bushings?
You bring up a good point about the assembly process. You are correct that the weight of the actual car is not on the suspension during assembly however the cradle assemblies have already been assembled with the bolts tightened at a simulated "loaded" suspension angle before the cradle assemblies are bolted to the body. As seen in the image below, the entire driveline and suspension is assembled before it ever gets bolted to the body itself.



I am not sure if production tolerances are tight enough now that they can actually align the suspension before marriage to the body or if this is something they do down the line. Either way, I wouldn't worry about any bushing pre-load from the factory...

Last edited by BMR guy; 06-20-2011 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
You bring up a good point about the assembly process. You are correct that the weight of the actual car is not on the suspension during assembly however the cradle assemblies have already been assembled with the bolts tightened at a simulated "loaded" suspension angle before the cradle assemblies are bolted to the body. As seen in the image below, the entire driveline and suspension is assembled before it ever gets bolted to the body itself. The fixture can move the suspension to any angle, simulating whatever ride height they want to.

I am not sure if production tolerances are tight enough now that they can actually align the suspension before marriage to the body or if this is something they do down the line. Either way, I wouldn't worry about any bushing pre-load from the factory...
Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:19 PM   #18
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Bruce's guys at Raymond's did mine about a month ago and I could tell an immediate difference in the quality of the ride. Seems like things smoothed way out, not that it was bad after being lowered but it's a better ride all together! Like it was mentioned, this is the best thing to do to right after ride height has been changed to save any excess wear on the bushings. It makes good sense in that those components were set from the factory with those parts you drove off the lot with, now you've changed those parts and the bushings need to be reset, to allow for adjustment in the changes you've created or made. Thanks for the write up, thanks Bruce and Raymond's and JusticePete for providing info on this some time back on another thread.
Oh yea, I told a buddy of mine who lives in Socal with his lowered Element on Teins and when he went back to Island motors who lowered his car back in 2005, they told him they didn't do it but they could but at this point he wouldn't tell a difference but it'll save some wear. The shop they farm out to, to lower cars said they knew of timing but didn't do it but typically and now, include that in the price of their work when dropping cars now.
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:16 AM   #19
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Bruce's guys at Raymond's did mine about a month ago and I could tell an immediate difference in the quality of the ride. Seems like things smoothed way out, not that it was bad after being lowered but it's a better ride all together! Like it was mentioned, this is the best thing to do to right after ride height has been changed to save any excess wear on the bushings. It makes good sense in that those components were set from the factory with those parts you drove off the lot with, now you've changed those parts and the bushings need to be reset, to allow for adjustment in the changes you've created or made. Thanks for the write up, thanks Bruce and Raymond's and JusticePete for providing info on this some time back on another thread.
Oh yea, I told a buddy of mine who lives in Socal with his lowered Element on Teins and when he went back to Island motors who lowered his car back in 2005, they told him they didn't do it but they could but at this point he wouldn't tell a difference but it'll save some wear. The shop they farm out to, to lower cars said they knew of timing but didn't do it but typically and now, include that in the price of their work when dropping cars now.

It's just good practice for any shops that lower vehicles. Shops that just cycle cars in and out and focus on quantity instead of quality will never take the time to do it. This is just one of the things that separates quality shops like Raymonds with your typical in-and-out alignment shop...
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:35 AM   #20
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It's just good practice for any shops that lower vehicles. Shops that just cycle cars in and out and focus on quantity instead of quality will never take the time to do it. This is just one of the things that separates quality shops like Raymonds with your typical in-and-out alignment shop...
Funny! This is the same shigady I try telling the people who make decisions for the Indiana State Police with the quotas we now have. Once we start shooting for numbers (tickets or contacts) over quality arrest and traffic enforcement, we become nothing more than some Podunk P.D. in Backwash USA. Having an officers vacation draw, shift selection and whether or not he gets to drive a new Charger, Mustang or unmarked vehicle over a standard issue Crown Vic can taint a mans judgment to lower his standards and way of thinking. Oh how I digress! Sorry for the rant!

But back on topic, I do understand what you're saying. Funny how this way of thinking can transcend over into other areas. Damn shame!
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:00 AM   #21
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went to get my car timed an aligned yesterday. They had the car up timed the front bushing, started on the rears, then came to me and said they were going to charge an extra 100 because my car was way out of specs. This would be $250 for an alignment! So they stopped as I refused to pay and gave me my car back with damage on all four rims...basterds. Going to another shop today, hope these guys dont try to rip me off either
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:25 PM   #22
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so it all worked out. The shop yesterday timed my front bushings, not sure if they did the rears. Got that done for free because of the incident, went to another shop and got the car aligned and I can tell the difference since getting the bushings reclocked, or atleast the fronts were done for sure. When going over bumps on the highway, I dont have that floating or springing feeling anymore. Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out alot and made my ride so much better!
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:22 PM   #23
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so it all worked out. The shop yesterday timed my front bushings, not sure if they did the rears. Got that done for free because of the incident, went to another shop and got the car aligned and I can tell the difference since getting the bushings re clocked, or at least the fronts were done for sure. When going over bumps on the highway, I don't have that floating or springing feeling anymore. Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out allot and made my ride so much better!
What about the messed up wheels you mentioned. There is no way I'd let or allow shop to get away with that sort of carelessness. That's one thing I like about Bruce, he drives what I drive, JusticePete drives what we drive. Always tell people when you do business, look at what the workers are driving. You can tell if they take pride in their work by what they drive and own. Still, I wouldn't have some jacked up wheel due their negligence!
Also who ever did the work, I'd ask them if they did in fact time the rears, that's like getting a front end alignment but not having the rear wheels aligned as well. Just saying, you want it right and all of it to work in unison.
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:56 PM   #24
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Thanks for this thread, it literally helped out alot and made my ride so much better!
No problem, glad to hear you got things worked out. Enjoy your re-clocked suspension!
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:07 AM   #25
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I had shop do it allignment and reclock 108 bucks car drives better than it ever has and new cradle and diff bushings made a huge difference!
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:09 PM   #26
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Good info! Is this a sticky yet?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:40 AM   #27
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So lets say you lower the car and have the bushings reclocked then down the road you add new suspension parts with new bushings does the car need to be reclocked every time you take suspension parts off!
Just make sure that you tighten the suspension bolts with the car at static ride height and you will be good. This can be done on ramps. Ultimately you just want to make sure that when the car is at ride height your bushings are not in a pre-loaded state. If, for instance, you installed a set of trailing arms, tightened the mounting bolts with the wheels hanging then set the car back down, that bushing would be be pre-loaded...

To a certain extent, bushing pre-load is mainly an OE bushing problem. In factory bushings the inner steel sleeve of the bushing is bonded to the rubber bushing itself. This creates a certain amount of bind anytime the suspension moves up or down. BMR bushings are all designed with floating inner sleeves that are lubricated through channels designed into our bushings. A few pumps with a grease gun and the sleeve rotates bind-free. These channels also run outward to the thrust surface of the bushing to keep these areas lubed as well. With no bind in the bushing, the bolts can be tightened with the suspension in any position.

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Old 10-25-2011, 01:43 PM   #28
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I just did alot of suspension work to my car like cradle bushing, differential, radius rod, sway bars, trailing arms, toe rods... But i still have stock shocks and springs... Do i have to time my bushings also or it just for lowered vehicles???
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