Drop completed, now bushing timing

[Weezerj]

This last weekend I was able to drop the car with my new BMR 1" lowering springs (thanks Apex for fast delivery)...

and now I would like to do the bushing timing, but I want to make sure that I have the correct torque settings.

Can you please take a look at my attached pics and confirm if I labeled the correct torque settings? If not please let me know....I'm kind of anal about directions.

Lastly, when installing the rear strut, I noticed that I could tell where the bolt had removed the paint....how important is it to align the strut as close to exact to where the bolt was originally tightened down (does this make sense)? I was placing these back in by myself and probably didn't get them exactly where they were from the factory. Do I need to go back in and re-align?

thanks

[Rob@WretchedMS]

i personally would not put a lot of faith in those torque specs,
18 ft lbs on the front LCA might get someone killed.

Just make the bolts all tight, and use loctite.

you will need to have the car aligned when you are done, so don't get to worried about getting the bolt perfect.

[Frid]

Originally Posted by Rob@WretchedMS

i personally would not put a lot of faith in those torque specs,
18 ft lbs on the front LCA might get someone killed.

Just make the bolts all tight, and use loctite.

you will need to have the car aligned when you are done, so don't get to worried about getting the bolt perfect.

[Weezerj]

nobody cares to give the correct torque setting for these bolts?.....please....

[caverman]

You should also get the Pedders or Pfadt Aggressive Street specs for you alignment.

I'm with Wreched....just make sure to use some blue locktite. The only one I remember torquing down pretty good was the cradle bolts. Even then it was recommended something stupid like 120 ft lbs. Good luck on that one using hand tools. I went with blue lock tite and about 80 lbs and called it good. No issues so far.

[dragon22]

Weezer, I am looking at specs in my 2010 Service manual.

Front lower control arm bolt at the frame - 37 lb ft plus an additional 120 degrees
Front lower control arm adjuster nut - 37 lb ft plus an additional 150 degrees

Trailing arm to frame - 74 lb ft
Trailing arm to knuckle - First pass 30 lb ft
Second pass +120 degrees
Lower rear shock absorber nut - First pass 59 lb ft
Second pass +120 degrees
Toe Rod knuckle end - 103 lb ft
Toe Rod frame end - 85 lb ft

The rear upper control arm bushings you're pointing to are 37 lb ft plus 120 degrees This one is just a bolt that you tighten. There is another pivot point with a bolt and nut on the upper control arm.

Torque on that is 44 lb ft plus 90 degrees

I hope this is of some help to you. I honestly can't see anything that should be torqued to 18 lb ft. Once you get it to the shop for an alignment, I would have them recheck all these bolts for you.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Weezerj

This last weekend I was able to drop the car with my new BMR 1" lowering springs (thanks Apex for fast delivery)...

and now I would like to do the bushing timing, but I want to make sure that I have the correct torque settings.

Can you please take a look at my attached pics and confirm if I labeled the correct torque settings? If not please let me know....I'm kind of anal about directions.

Lastly, when installing the rear strut, I noticed that I could tell where the bolt had removed the paint....how important is it to align the strut as close to exact to where the bolt was originally tightened down (does this make sense)? I was placing these back in by myself and probably didn't get them exactly where they were from the factory. Do I need to go back in and re-align?

thanks

Here are the torque specs that come direct from our installation instruction.

Front suspension

Front lower control arm bolt - 39 ft/lbs
Front radius rod bolts - 32 ft/lbs

Rear suspension

Upper control arm bolts - 39 ft/lbs
Shock bolts - 60 ft/lbs
Toe rod bolts (inner) - 85 ft/lbs
Toe rod bolts (outer) - 103 ft.lbs
Lower control arm bolts - 32 ft/lbs
Trailing arm bolts (inner) - 74 ft/lbs
Trailing arm bolts (outer) - 32 ft/lbs

If there is anything else we can help you out with let us know.

Kyle

[caverman]

WOW....103 ft lbs for the Toe Rod bolt. That's alot.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by caverman

WOW....103 ft lbs for the Toe Rod bolt. That's alot.

I thought so too but that is straight out of the GM service manual.

[c_cook94]

Planning on dropping my car soon. Do you have to drop the whole rear cradle to instal the rear springs?

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by Weezerj

This last weekend I was able to drop the car with my new BMR 1" lowering springs (thanks Apex for fast delivery)...

No problem. Thank you for your order.

Originally Posted by c_cook94

Planning on dropping my car soon. Do you have to drop the whole rear cradle to instal the rear springs?

No. Here is a link to a PDF file of the install instructions.

SP019.pdf

[Rob@WretchedMS]

Originally Posted by c_cook94

Planning on dropping my car soon. Do you have to drop the whole rear cradle to instal the rear springs?

no, the cradle remains installed when you install the rear springs.
However if you want to install our Rear camber eccentrics then the cradle would need to come down just a bit to clear the fuel tank on the drivers side. But dropping the cradle is not as scary as it sounds, it's just 4 bolts to loosen it.

[c_cook94]

Thanks for the info guys!

[RDesign]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

Here are the torque specs that come direct from our installation instruction.

Front suspension

Front lower control arm bolt - 39 ft/lbs
Front radius rod bolts - 32 ft/lbs

Rear suspension

Upper control arm bolts - 39 ft/lbs
Shock bolts - 60 ft/lbs
Toe rod bolts (inner) - 85 ft/lbs
Toe rod bolts (outer) - 103 ft.lbs
Lower control arm bolts - 32 ft/lbs
Trailing arm bolts (inner) - 74 ft/lbs
Trailing arm bolts (outer) - 32 ft/lbs

If there is anything else we can help you out with let us know.

Kyle

Hello, it's an old thread I wake up, sorry...
thank you for this precious data, I made an update of document made by Weezerj (thanx to him too), can you tell if it's correct ?
Also, I read some threads where it's question about adding of Blue Loctite, about just change the springs and unscrew/screw all bolts, is it necessary ?

Thank you by advance.