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Old 08-06-2018, 10:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
I agree with all of that. I would say that the subframe bushings have the most slop and give of all the rear end components, and are the best place to start. If you fix everything but those, you probably still won't be happy. But if you do them first, you may find you've done all you need.
Very true and I agree they are the single biggest issue. As well the factory trailing arms are stamped steel, and cars making more than stock power and then putting sticky tires on car quickly overcome the abilities of stamped parts. Like you, I would like for all to be informed to prevent damaging parts needlessly while getting the best bang for their buck out of their cars.

I've torn up many thousands of dollars in parts along the way....
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:52 AM   #16
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3-4 uga-dugas. I did not put a torque wrench to them. The spec calls for 165ft/lbs - that's higher than my 1/2" torque wrench will go anyways, and about where the impact will leave things on kill. I definitely did not buy new bolts, TTY on a head, sure, but on a suspension part, I'm comfortable reusing.

All that money you spent and you cheaped out on the new bolts?
The way I saw it, I'm only going to do this once.
The spec I have reads 74 lbft + 120°
Where did you find 165 lbft?

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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
I agree with all of that. I would say that the subframe bushings have the most slop and give of all the rear end components, and are the best place to start. If you fix everything but those, you probably still won't be happy. But if you do them first, you may find you've done all you need.

At stock power I added inserts. The stiffer rear sway I bought has been in my garage for 5 years.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:14 AM   #17
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All that money you spent and you cheaped out on the new bolts?
The way I saw it, I'm only going to do this once.
The spec I have reads 74 lbft + 120°
Where did you find 165 lbft?
Per the guy that designed and sells the bushings - https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=63

In that thread he also talks about re-using the bolts being a non-issue.

I'll let you guys know if I have to re-do anything or have a bolt failure. I expect zero issues.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:40 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by acammer View Post
Per the guy that designed and sells the bushings - https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=63

In that thread he also talks about re-using the bolts being a non-issue.

I'll let you guys know if I have to re-do anything or have a bolt failure. I expect zero issues.
i can comment on re-using the bolts: i did prothane inserts about 3 years ago and re-used the original bolts. i put blue loctite on them and torqued to i think 120 ft-lbs. so far all 4 are still in there and none moved when i checked them recently
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:40 AM   #19
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Welcome to IRS troubles.... The flip side is you don't see many videos of Camaro's spinning out and ending up in crowds due to the stability of the IRS under most conditions.... It was designed more for handling than it was for launching a car at the drag strip. But it can be fixed.


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Very true and I agree they are the single biggest issue. As well the factory trailing arms are stamped steel, and cars making more than stock power and then putting sticky tires on car quickly overcome the abilities of stamped parts. Like you, I would like for all to be informed to prevent damaging parts needlessly while getting the best bang for their buck out of their cars.

I've torn up many thousands of dollars in parts along the way....

I definitely agree. Not that i'm trying to go cheap, well sorta, but I like doing one mod at a time and with only headers intake tune, I think a good starting place is the bushings as mentioned here. The stamped steel parts and soft bushings I'm sure will eventually be a weak point.
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:00 AM   #20
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i can comment on re-using the bolts: i did prothane inserts about 3 years ago and re-used the original bolts. i put blue loctite on them and torqued to i think 120 ft-lbs. so far all 4 are still in there and none moved when i checked them recently

this....2 c'fests(1300 miles ea.) and countless hwy miles along with 100+ trips down the 1320....stock bolts re-used...zero probs.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:30 PM   #21
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I installed Pegasus solid (aluminum) rear sub-frame bushings on Tuesday. Ever since I bought this car I felt like there was just a obscene amount of slop in the driveline. You hear "well, it's got a two piece drive-shaft, it's got a dual mass flywheel, it's IRS, etc". I always felt like the slop was mostly the rear sub-frame - you could really notice it if you pulled the e-brake on while it was still rolling a little that it would REALLY rock back and forth - and that would only be suspension related.

So, I installed the solid bushings. The install really wasn't too challenging with the use of a lift. I used the heat and jack method, and the whole job took only about two hours. I also swapped on an LPW differential cover - for those of you wondering - YES, you can do it without pulling an axle and dropping the diff out.

Man - wow, what a difference. I felt it from the first release of the clutch backing out of the shop - just everything was solidly connected. Much less potential for bucking, much better shifting feel, pedaling through wheel-spin is nice and smooth, no wind-up on launch, this should be a MUST DO mod for even a stock M6 car. Autos will benefit too, but the M6 especially moves that cradle around a lot! If you're on a tire and you've got aggressive gears, it's the only way to be. It's worth every penny.

Note - I did not pick up any type of road noise at all. No clunks, bangs, etc. I did pick up a good bit of gear whine. My car has 4.10s, and they were not quiet to begin with (has had BMR pro bushings in the diff for a year). I added the LPW cover at the same time as the solid bushings - that has load bolts that go right down to the main caps on the ring gear. And that cover has a BMR pro bushing in it, and then solid cradle mounts, so the noise has a pretty straight shot to get up to the body. I think the LPW cover has a lot to do with it. No complaints though - I'm doing race-car stuff and that's a side-effect I'm willing to live with. I bet most sets of gears aren't this noisy either - most guys say they have no noise.
Hey there again acammer, nice to chat with you again! You post some really great stuff man! Still lovin this Mishimoto 169 stat I installed thanks to you sir! Now I am doing this solid bushing swap because the rear just moves to much for my liking with this new cam setup I have, so I decided to do these, got a great price from JDP Motorsports. I went up to my dealership, they have a couple guys that do all the performance stuff and they are great, but their system doesn't show how long it takes to do this, I found a vid on youtube using the jack and heat method. How did you do it that it took only about 2 hours? That would be awesome if you could share that for me. Once again thanks for quality information.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:34 PM   #22
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Hey there again acammer, nice to chat with you again! You post some really great stuff man! Still lovin this Mishimoto 169 stat I installed thanks to you sir! Now I am doing this solid bushing swap because the rear just moves to much for my liking with this new cam setup I have, so I decided to do these, got a great price from JDP Motorsports. I went up to my dealership, they have a couple guys that do all the performance stuff and they are great, but their system doesn't show how long it takes to do this, I found a vid on youtube using the jack and heat method. How did you do it that it took only about 2 hours? That would be awesome if you could share that for me. Once again thanks for quality information.
With the car on a lift, we used the heat and jack method. Took the lower shock bolts out, then took each subframe bolt out one at a time and then back in 5 turns. Then took one out completely, put a socket between the body and bushing, and then jacked on the cradle and heated it up. Both front ones dropped out easy, the backs took just a little more time.
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:53 PM   #23
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With the car on a lift, we used the heat and jack method. Took the lower shock bolts out, then took each subframe bolt out one at a time and then back in 5 turns. Then took one out completely, put a socket between the body and bushing, and then jacked on the cradle and heated it up. Both front ones dropped out easy, the backs took just a little more time.
Hello sir, many thanks for the info, much appreciated! I also found a vid on youtube showing exactly what you are saying, looked kinda not a problem with the right equipment. The only difference is this guy disconnected his LCA's at the bottom bolt and took the sway bar totally off, is that necessary as well ? Also does any of the exhaust have to come off, or is there room to drop the cradle enough to gain space for the socket on top of the stock bushings. Thanks again sir. They will be here tomorrow..
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Old 08-15-2018, 08:04 PM   #24
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The only difference is this guy disconnected his LCA's at the bottom bolt and took the sway bar totally off, is that necessary as well ? Also does any of the exhaust have to come off, or is there room to drop the cradle enough to gain space for the socket on top of the stock bushings. Thanks again sir. They will be here tomorrow..
I didn't unbolt LCAs or sway bars. It might help, we had to pry a little to get our spacers to press with into the back bushings. The exhaust I had out of the way already as I also bolted in my LPW diff cover at the same time - it may or may not clear.

Let me know how you like them!
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:36 AM   #25
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I didn't unbolt LCAs or sway bars. It might help, we had to pry a little to get our spacers to press with into the back bushings. The exhaust I had out of the way already as I also bolted in my LPW diff cover at the same time - it may or may not clear.

Let me know how you like them!
Very well sir thanks for all the info! I will let you know how it all turns out. Also I found a link to Pfadt's install of the bushings and they suggested pulling the entire cradle out to do it, and said only 3 hrs...Hmm, I will let my tech decide how he wants to do it. Thanks again sir !! Have a great day !!
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:00 PM   #26
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Hello again acammer, another quick question please, on the install of the NEW bushings, did you do them one at a time after you pushed the stock one out? Or did you press all the stockers out, then go back around to install the solid ones. Just curious as to the method and save some hassle hopefully. Thanks sir. They are going in Saturday..
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:10 PM   #27
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Hello again acammer, another quick question please, on the install of the NEW bushings, did you do them one at a time after you pushed the stock one out? Or did you press all the stockers out, then go back around to install the solid ones. Just curious as to the method and save some hassle hopefully. Thanks sir. They are going in Saturday..
I went one at a time, press it out, put in a solid mount.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:14 AM   #28
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I went one at a time, press it out, put in a solid mount.
Thanks you sir very much, I appreciate it.. Have a good day !!
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