ProCharger Story, poor me?

[Neumatic]

You’re running the canned tune? Tuning isn’t one size fits all, those tunes are not going to get you the power you want. They’re a safe tune, not meant for all out power. A custom tune from a reputable tuner will perform way better in all aspects than that canned crap.

Do you know what psi you’re making on this setup? That’s where their 50% gain is coming from, atmospheric pressure is a bit above 14psi so 7psi theoretically would create around 50% more power.

[SteakmanMA]

Originally Posted by Neumatic

You’re running the canned tune? Tuning isn’t one size fits all, those tunes are not going to get you the power you want. They’re a safe tune, not meant for all out power. A custom tune from a reputable tuner will perform way better in all aspects than that canned crap.

Do you know what psi you’re making on this setup? That’s where their 50% gain is coming from, atmospheric pressure is a bit above 14psi so 7psi theoretically would create around 50% more power.

My "ProCharger" (autometer) mechanical gauge will hit 5 PSI at WOT before shifting at redline.

Advertised at 7 PSI, installer says his dyno showed 6.7 PSI and ProCharger says the mechanical gauges are usually pretty accurate.

That was my question to installer, think there is a leak somewhere now?
Bleed valve maybe not holding?

I feel caught between installer & PC.
Installer took a few days longer to finish because they said they could not get proper boost PSI.
They blamed PC giving them wrong pulley.
I buy a gauge after when I felt performance was down and dyno showed same RWHP.
They also beat in my inner fender well an inch to fit SC.

PC says NO WAY their kit requires body work to fit on a common car like Camaro.

I have low performance (versus was advertised) and nobody has any good answers.

[Aswedfrog]

Originally Posted by SteakmanMA

My "ProCharger" (autometer) mechanical gauge will hit 5 PSI at WOT before shifting at redline.

Advertised at 7 PSI, installer says his dyno showed 6.7 PSI and ProCharger says the mechanical gauges are usually pretty accurate.

That was my question to installer, think there is a leak somewhere now?
Bleed valve maybe not holding?

I feel caught between installer & PC.
Installer took a few days longer to finish because they said they could not get proper boost PSI.
They blamed PC giving them wrong pulley.
I buy a gauge after when I felt performance was down and dyno showed same RWHP.
They also beat in my inner fender well an inch to fit SC.

PC says NO WAY their kit requires body work to fit on a common car like Camaro.

I have low performance (versus was advertised) and nobody has any good answers.

You can look on the pulley to see what size it is. Then you call procharger to verify that is the correct size. Im going to say it probably is. Im starting to get nervous about this tuner. The reason Im going with procharger is because you don't have to make those types of "modifications". Where is you boost gauge sourcing its pressure from?

[SteakmanMA]

Originally Posted by Aswedfrog

You can look on the pulley to see what size it is. Then you call procharger to verify that is the correct size. Im going to say it probably is. Im starting to get nervous about this tuner. The reason Im going with procharger is because you don't have to make those types of "modifications". Where is you boost gauge sourcing its pressure from?

The mechanical gauge tubing is threaded into the power brake booster fitting where the installer/Procharger apparently suggests and gives a splitter to do so when on Dyno.

I am also now getting a "stumble/buck" when quickly matting the pedal at about 70 MPH.
Seems like it's not getting instantaneous fuel or something.
Still running 93 octane only.

If I roll into it holding the gears in a higher RPM, it does not seem to do it nor at WOT before shifting.

This is new over last month but still only about 1k miles on car since SC install.

I was looking for some sort of real time monitor for many things including fuel pressure wondering if stock pump not keeping up?

[John_C]

Bet you got a bigass pulley on the std kit.

They shipped my Stage 2 D1X tuner kit with a 4.5 inch which didn't make much boost.

We did a 3.9 inch pulley and spinning to 6,800 put us right about 14psi for 723 rwhp pump 93 octane and 760 rwhp E85.

You go up on boost, you'll need to upgrade the fuel system and a good trans tune or that 6L80 will flare and start slipping.

I ended up spending more on my trans setup than the ProChrger.

Shit gets expensive fast!

[John_C]

Oh, and do the DoD delete with a cam and valve train to support it.

[Netraa]

Originally Posted by SteakmanMA

The mechanical gauge tubing is threaded into the power brake booster fitting where the installer/Procharger apparently suggests and gives a splitter to do so when on Dyno.

I am also now getting a "stumble/buck" when quickly matting the pedal at about 70 MPH.
Seems like it's not getting instantaneous fuel or something.
Still running 93 octane only.

If I roll into it holding the gears in a higher RPM, it does not seem to do it nor at WOT before shifting.

This is new over last month but still only about 1k miles on car since SC install.

I was looking for some sort of real time monitor for many things including fuel pressure wondering if stock pump not keeping up?

.


Try to kick the car into 'sport mode' before you mat it at 70 mph. My $$ is on the TCU and the ECU arguing about what gear the car needs to be in and how much power it can instantly accept.

There was another user on here who had a similar issue, the TCU would override the ECU and not allow the engine to do it's thing until it had the transmission ready for the power the engine was about to throw down on it.

[LCPLPunk]

OP, can you not do longtubes? Those will real big benefits with your setup....

[Js2fst]

Different altitude can change the psi. Also no beating of
Fender is needed.

[Rons1le]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

OP, can you not do longtubes? Those will real big benefits with your setup....

Exactly, more air in needs more air out and those factory manifolds and cats are very restrictive. My setup is all bolt ons and I made 661 rwhp 575 rwtrq @10lbs boost.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[John_C]

Originally Posted by Rons1le

Exactly, more air in needs more air out and those factory manifolds and cats are very restrictive. My setup is all bolt ons and I made 661 rwhp 575 rwtrq @10lbs boost.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

What size pulley and how much boost are you running?

[Greenhornet2]

I think you need a better shop. Them telling you a cam and exhaust isnt going to help much tells me they are idiots. I got a little more than a 50% gain on my whipple but did the fuel system and exhaust and run the 10lb pulley. With a cam o should be about 700whp when i do it. That's around 100whp just from a cam! That's about 85% hp gain total and procharger is known to produce bigger HP numbers than whipple with similar mods. Sounds like these guys never have done these kind of mods on a camaro. Call jannety racing in CT. They can set you up a good tune, might have you do some data logging. You'll have to buy a tuner from them. There's others that can do it as well. But i used them and the custom tune Ted emailed me before it was even on the dyno the damn car ran beautifully so i can attest to the quality of the tuning. I bought the SCT tuner. P.S sorry if i typo a lot, doing this on my phone lol.

[Rons1le]

Originally Posted by John_C

What size pulley and how much boost are you running?

3.2" blower pulley. Made 10 lbs boost on the Dyno.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[John_C]

Originally Posted by Rons1le

3.2" blower pulley. Made 10 lbs boost on the Dyno.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

So which ProCharger head unit and what max rpm are you reeving to?