Oil pressure issue/new rebuild - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Witt51 · 09-11-2019, 11:36 AM

I have 2011 ss with full bolt ons

Need a little guidance on trouble shooting low pressure on new rebuild.

Just rebuilt my motor and installed. The first start up psi climbed to 30 psi and dropped down when motor was warm to 12-15psi. I tapped throttle to 2k and psi never went up. I confirmed the psi with a mechanical gage. (I changed valley cover orings when I installed the gage). The top end does sound loud but it might be me being paranoid.

So my next step I'm guessing will be:
1. Check pump oring
2. Pressure relief (not sure what to check)
3. Cam plate for leak

All components are new with rebuild. I have the melling hp/hv pump with correct oring.

What are the symptoms of a oil barbell issue?

Would you suggest doing the front of the engine work first and then try to see if it's fixed or yank the motor out all together (I'm working alone with no help and a bad back).

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Katech_Zach · 09-11-2019, 12:10 PM

What are your bearing clearances? Are you running oil squirters? Are all of the proper block plugs installed correctly?

Lots of factors that can effect oil flow.

hammdo · 09-11-2019, 12:11 PM

Who rebuilt the engine and, what were the clearances? We’re new cam bushings installed?

Way too many things to ck with a rebuilt engine. Barbell can loose pressure but, it’s all a guess.

Oil pump o-ring could be it but too many variables...

Edit:

Zach beat me to it ;o)

-Don

Witt51 · 09-11-2019, 12:17 PM

I can't remember clearances but I know we used stock size bearings and new crank. The work was done about a year ago so its a little fuzzy the exact numbers.

I've had this same setup before and my psi was always 60+ at start up and 30 at operating temp. I'm using 5w-30 conventional as per builder.

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Witt51 · 09-11-2019, 12:26 PM

Yes new cam bearings and king (I believe) racing main bearings and rods.

The builder did the short block and I assembled and installed it. This was my first rebuild on an automobile and used videos, books and lots of research. I worked on helicopters for 15years so I have some mechanical skills.

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Witt51 · 09-11-2019, 12:36 PM

I know that it's impossible to guess but I was hoping there be something that would almost pinpoint it. With psi not raising with rpm has me really lost. Relief valve is all that would pop in my head

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hammdo · 09-11-2019, 01:11 PM

Relief spring is in the oil pump. A poor fitting oring can cause that also. Those could be your first checks.

Also, was assembly lube used and, was the engine 'primed' before starting?

-Don

Witt51 · 09-11-2019, 01:31 PM

I was going pull the spring out and look but not sure if there will be anything noticeable.

I installed everything with assembly lube since I knew it might sit for a bit and coated the the oil pump oring with nice coat of petrol lube and was trying to be extra careful installing the pickup tube. I primed oil system by cutting the fuel/spark and cranking the starter. I didn't have the mechanical gage hooked up though so I didn't get to watch pressure.

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Witt51 · 09-11-2019, 01:33 PM

Would the barbell prevent the pressure from increasin with rpm?

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hammdo · 09-11-2019, 01:56 PM

If the oring was damaged or the barbell is worn - possibly but, you'd have to pull the trans and rear cover. If you're doing that much I'd replace with Sac Cities. The factory one are a bit smaller - I went with sac cities machined barbell in my rebuild.

Edit:

https://www.saccitycorvette.com/Billet-BarBell.html

Get these also:

https://www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html

I'd still ck pump first since it would be more likely than the barbell... You also mentioned the valley cover - double ck the orings there too...

-Don

Batmanntexas · 09-11-2019, 02:07 PM

The barbell is basically a diverter that causes the oil to be diverted through the oil filter before going through the rest of the motor (reference included pics). Seems to me that if pressure doesn't increase with RPM, then it probably is a pump and/or pickup tube issue.

hammdo · 09-11-2019, 02:18 PM

Yea, that is my understanding also...

-Don

christianchevell · 09-13-2019, 08:55 AM

Drop the pan is not so easy on a Camaro with the front subframe...But yes your pickup tube should be above pan and not off...… I run a high volume pump, never get low pressure ever; even scorching hot I am at 40 at idle in the summer in the city driving all day. Good Luck, you did use the green o ring also right..? And BTW breaking in my new engine I used two rounds of Driven racing BR30 ….one with a dyno break in , one after then several thousand on some Conventional vr-1 high zddp oil... Cold my oil pressure is like 80 + and takes along time to warm and drop....

Witt51 · 09-13-2019, 09:55 AM

Good info. Thanks guys.

All the lifters sound pretty chattery and after reading the diagram I can see how the oring will create the chatter.

I will pull the front cover and verify everything. I don't know if anything will be obvious but I will change the oring and pul the bypass spring to give a look.

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09-11-2019, 11:36 AM	#1
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	Oil pressure issue/new rebuild I have 2011 ss with full bolt ons Need a little guidance on trouble shooting low pressure on new rebuild. Just rebuilt my motor and installed. The first start up psi climbed to 30 psi and dropped down when motor was warm to 12-15psi. I tapped throttle to 2k and psi never went up. I confirmed the psi with a mechanical gage. (I changed valley cover orings when I installed the gage). The top end does sound loud but it might be me being paranoid. So my next step I'm guessing will be: 1. Check pump oring 2. Pressure relief (not sure what to check) 3. Cam plate for leak All components are new with rebuild. I have the melling hp/hv pump with correct oring. What are the symptoms of a oil barbell issue? Would you suggest doing the front of the engine work first and then try to see if it's fixed or yank the motor out all together (I'm working alone with no help and a bad back). Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

09-11-2019, 12:11 PM	#3
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Who rebuilt the engine and, what were the clearances? We’re new cam bushings installed? Way too many things to ck with a rebuilt engine. Barbell can loose pressure but, it’s all a guess. Oil pump o-ring could be it but too many variables... Edit: Zach beat me to it ;o) -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

09-11-2019, 01:11 PM	#7
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Relief spring is in the oil pump. A poor fitting oring can cause that also. Those could be your first checks. Also, was assembly lube used and, was the engine 'primed' before starting? -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

09-11-2019, 01:56 PM	#10
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	If the oring was damaged or the barbell is worn - possibly but, you'd have to pull the trans and rear cover. If you're doing that much I'd replace with Sac Cities. The factory one are a bit smaller - I went with sac cities machined barbell in my rebuild. Edit: https://www.saccitycorvette.com/Billet-BarBell.html Get these also: https://www.saccitycorvette.com/AlignItTools.html I'd still ck pump first since it would be more likely than the barbell... You also mentioned the valley cover - double ck the orings there too... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

09-11-2019, 02:07 PM	#11
Batmanntexas Drives: 2012 Camaro SS (2SS) Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 1,372 View My Garage	The barbell is basically a diverter that causes the oil to be diverted through the oil filter before going through the rest of the motor (reference included pics). Seems to me that if pressure doesn't increase with RPM, then it probably is a pump and/or pickup tube issue. Attached Images __________________ 745RWHP/634RWTQ on 93 @ 10psi 806/676 on E85 @ 10psi COTW 9/8/14

09-11-2019, 12:10 PM	#2
Katech_Zach Drives: 14 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Clinton Twp, MI Posts: 483	What are your bearing clearances? Are you running oil squirters? Are all of the proper block plugs installed correctly? Lots of factors that can effect oil flow.

09-11-2019, 12:17 PM	#4
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	I can't remember clearances but I know we used stock size bearings and new crank. The work was done about a year ago so its a little fuzzy the exact numbers. I've had this same setup before and my psi was always 60+ at start up and 30 at operating temp. I'm using 5w-30 conventional as per builder. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

09-11-2019, 12:26 PM	#5
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	Yes new cam bearings and king (I believe) racing main bearings and rods. The builder did the short block and I assembled and installed it. This was my first rebuild on an automobile and used videos, books and lots of research. I worked on helicopters for 15years so I have some mechanical skills. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

09-11-2019, 12:36 PM	#6
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	I know that it's impossible to guess but I was hoping there be something that would almost pinpoint it. With psi not raising with rpm has me really lost. Relief valve is all that would pop in my head Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

09-11-2019, 01:31 PM	#8
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	I was going pull the spring out and look but not sure if there will be anything noticeable. I installed everything with assembly lube since I knew it might sit for a bit and coated the the oil pump oring with nice coat of petrol lube and was trying to be extra careful installing the pickup tube. I primed oil system by cutting the fuel/spark and cranking the starter. I didn't have the mechanical gage hooked up though so I didn't get to watch pressure. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

09-11-2019, 01:33 PM	#9
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	Would the barbell prevent the pressure from increasin with rpm? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

09-11-2019, 02:18 PM	#12
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Yea, that is my understanding also... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

09-13-2019, 08:55 AM	#13
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	Drop the pan is not so easy on a Camaro with the front subframe...But yes your pickup tube should be above pan and not off...… I run a high volume pump, never get low pressure ever; even scorching hot I am at 40 at idle in the summer in the city driving all day. Good Luck, you did use the green o ring also right..? And BTW breaking in my new engine I used two rounds of Driven racing BR30 ….one with a dyno break in , one after then several thousand on some Conventional vr-1 high zddp oil... Cold my oil pressure is like 80 + and takes along time to warm and drop.... __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop

09-13-2019, 09:55 AM	#14
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	Good info. Thanks guys. All the lifters sound pretty chattery and after reading the diagram I can see how the oring will create the chatter. I will pull the front cover and verify everything. I don't know if anything will be obvious but I will change the oring and pul the bypass spring to give a look. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk