Higher stall speed and reaction time - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Heads-up · 01-06-2023, 11:26 AM

If you installed a higher stall converter did you see a change in RT? If a higher stall lowers the 60' by .3 seconds, it should clear the first 16" or so from the stage beam to the guard beam somewhat. I'm trying to figure out how much R/T would be effected and at what stall rpm. My 60's are usually 2.04 with a 13.3 ET at 105ish at 6500 DA.

I raced my 2010 SS last year in 12 races at the local strip. If I leave on the last amber bulb I consistently get .10 to .14 reaction times. The car leaves pretty slow. On my practice tree my human R/T is about .15 - .2 so the car is taking .4 to .5 seconds to go from the stage beam to pass the guard beam. The stock converter will only stall up to around 1300 rpm. I assume this is due to the lower gears (less load = lower stall) and the fact that I'm down some hp due top DA in the 5 to 6000 range.

The car is street/strip build. I cant lower the weight or change tire diameter on the front wheels to lower my R/T. I could stage deeper but my local track tends to discourage deep staging by starting the tree as soon as both cars have lit the stage lights. If I try to bump deeper i sometimes miss the light. That leaves launch RPM as the only way to influence R/T. There's another 5th gen Camaro at the track and we have similar problems. We have to leave after the second amber and before the third to lower R/T, and this isnt consistent enough to win when bracket racing.

The car has CAI, Headers, 3.73 rear gears, BMR drag pack (double adjustable rear shocks, Lower control arms, trailing arms, larger sway bar, and poly bushings on all the suspension pieces, cradle, and differential.) and 17 inch wheels with MT Street SS drag radials.

Joe M 2012 2SS · 03-26-2023, 09:03 PM

I run a Circle D 3200 stall, it lowered my ET 3.5 tenths in the 1/8th mile, but I run in much lower DA than you do. 60' times were 1.78ish after changing.

As far as reaction time, I leave the same on the tree that you do, as soon as I see the 3rd amber light begin to illuminate, I'm usually at .1X with an occasional .00X, and an occasional red light. I do prefer to shallow stage vs. deep though.
This does vary from person to person, depending on how quickly your feet react to your eyes.

If you are looking to get to 13.0, a converter would be your best mod. Be sure and add a transmission cooler as well.
You don't want the stock tranny over 185* with a stalled converter.

I've had my stall in for 6 years and put 40,000 miles on it, and at least a hundred passes, with no issues.

Circle D makes a high quality product.

ruby2010 · 04-05-2023, 09:43 AM

try deep staging, its all timing. youll go from .1x to .0xx. No need to spend money on a converter , insatll and tune if your not doing it yourself. Driver mod is free

ruby2010 · 06-04-2023, 07:39 AM

Getting these cars to move out and cut a light is all in the tune. Brake pedal torque management needs to be gone and torque management on engine and trans side needs to gone also.

Bigdumogre · 06-04-2023, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruby2010

try deep staging, its all timing. youll go from .1x to .0xx. No need to spend money on a converter , insatll and tune if your not doing it yourself. Driver mod is free

It is well known that converters add a lot to the car. That and a tune do wonders.

01-06-2023, 11:26 AM	#1
Heads-up Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Bozeman Montana Posts: 38	Higher stall speed and reaction time If you installed a higher stall converter did you see a change in RT? If a higher stall lowers the 60' by .3 seconds, it should clear the first 16" or so from the stage beam to the guard beam somewhat. I'm trying to figure out how much R/T would be effected and at what stall rpm. My 60's are usually 2.04 with a 13.3 ET at 105ish at 6500 DA. I raced my 2010 SS last year in 12 races at the local strip. If I leave on the last amber bulb I consistently get .10 to .14 reaction times. The car leaves pretty slow. On my practice tree my human R/T is about .15 - .2 so the car is taking .4 to .5 seconds to go from the stage beam to pass the guard beam. The stock converter will only stall up to around 1300 rpm. I assume this is due to the lower gears (less load = lower stall) and the fact that I'm down some hp due top DA in the 5 to 6000 range. The car is street/strip build. I cant lower the weight or change tire diameter on the front wheels to lower my R/T. I could stage deeper but my local track tends to discourage deep staging by starting the tree as soon as both cars have lit the stage lights. If I try to bump deeper i sometimes miss the light. That leaves launch RPM as the only way to influence R/T. There's another 5th gen Camaro at the track and we have similar problems. We have to leave after the second amber and before the third to lower R/T, and this isnt consistent enough to win when bracket racing. The car has CAI, Headers, 3.73 rear gears, BMR drag pack (double adjustable rear shocks, Lower control arms, trailing arms, larger sway bar, and poly bushings on all the suspension pieces, cradle, and differential.) and 17 inch wheels with MT Street SS drag radials.

03-26-2023, 09:03 PM	#2
Joe M 2012 2SS Drives: 2012 2SS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Shelby NC Posts: 2,549 View My Garage	I run a Circle D 3200 stall, it lowered my ET 3.5 tenths in the 1/8th mile, but I run in much lower DA than you do. 60' times were 1.78ish after changing. As far as reaction time, I leave the same on the tree that you do, as soon as I see the 3rd amber light begin to illuminate, I'm usually at .1X with an occasional .00X, and an occasional red light. I do prefer to shallow stage vs. deep though. This does vary from person to person, depending on how quickly your feet react to your eyes. If you are looking to get to 13.0, a converter would be your best mod. Be sure and add a transmission cooler as well. You don't want the stock tranny over 185* with a stalled converter. I've had my stall in for 6 years and put 40,000 miles on it, and at least a hundred passes, with no issues. Circle D makes a high quality product. __________________ Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles.

04-05-2023, 09:43 AM	#3
ruby2010 Drives: 2010ss Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: USA Posts: 65	try deep staging, its all timing. youll go from .1x to .0xx. No need to spend money on a converter , insatll and tune if your not doing it yourself. Driver mod is free

06-04-2023, 07:39 AM	#4
ruby2010 Drives: 2010ss Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: USA Posts: 65	Getting these cars to move out and cut a light is all in the tune. Brake pedal torque management needs to be gone and torque management on engine and trans side needs to gone also.