12-28-2014, 10:41 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 victory red 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Winfield, Kansas
Posts: 202
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prepping to do a header install couple questions
hello all
I just recently bought headers and am in the process of making sure i have everything i need to do the install In your experience which did you like best Using hi temp gasket maker or GM manifold gaskets. Are cats necessary? I have had a few classics without them and never noticed any odd or fowl smell. Does this only come from fuel injected cars? and lastly the tune. Headers are 2" primary tube i understand the tune is for helping the car make use of the headers but what happens with out it? check engine light? I have never installed headers on a newer car but that said i have done it on my older cars. IF there is any advice you have or experience to share PLEASE share it. Thanks |
12-28-2014, 10:52 AM | #2 |
Drives: 11' RJT 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 298
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Use the GM steel header gaskets. The cats aren't necessary but depending on where you live you need them or for some people the smell is too much. Without the tune you will see a CEL. From my understanding these cars are pretty easy to install headers, so if you've installed them before you shouldn't have too much trouble.
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12-28-2014, 10:57 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2014 2ss vert Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: great white north
Posts: 59
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2.5 hours start to finish by myself on a lift. I used the stock GM gaskets and no silicone. No cats, don't notice a smell. I had mine tune with an air box. After 8 pulls on the dyno it only made 5 more hp than on the baseline pull. The purpose of a dyno is to clean up the fuel map and make it safe for what the car's intended purpose is.
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12-28-2014, 11:14 AM | #4 | ||
Drives: 2010 victory red 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Winfield, Kansas
Posts: 202
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Quote:
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12-28-2014, 11:15 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 victory red 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Winfield, Kansas
Posts: 202
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also note i do live in a state where emissions checks are not done at all.
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12-28-2014, 11:24 AM | #6 |
I got alot of words to share since I did the install with another buddy first time installer too hope these help
1.Watch the spark plug wires when pulling them out I ripped one of my tugging on it wrong had to replace 1 2. Zip tie is your friend when you finish the install watch the O2 wires they will burn if you don't move them out of the way 3. Passenger side will be the most painful install due to clerance 4. Put alot if time in between if installing yourself a rushed job isn't going to make install better 5. Steering shaft clearance if your too close it will cause rattling noise mine was fortunate not to be near it 6. The iron Manifolds are not light at all expect heavy weight coming down when you get it loose 7. Depending on your milage the bolts holding the manifold up will be stuck on there had to PB them loose If I remember anything else I'll add on but thats all I remeber |
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12-28-2014, 11:26 AM | #7 |
The O2 extension should be included if not you will need one its a big gap between wires when headers go on
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12-28-2014, 02:04 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2014 2ss vert Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: great white north
Posts: 59
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My car had 13 km on it when I did the swap, all nuts and bolts came out very easily. It now has about 150 (100 miles) I have no idea how long the gaskets will last but would assume if the bolts are kept tight they will last forever.
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12-28-2014, 02:24 PM | #9 | |
Drives: '15 Z06, '01 NBM SS, '97 SS Join Date: May 2009
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Posts: 12,170
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Hit the manifold bolts with WD or PB before you do anything. By the time you get to removing them, theyll come right out. Unplug all 4 O2s before you remove the Manifolds too. Like he said, they aren't light and they'll pull the wiring harness down more than you wnat them to. Zip ties FTW afterwards for sure. Great point. If the header doesn't go in smoothly, something isn't right. FROM THE BOTTOM, they go right in like butter. Don't force anything. The OBX's and BBKs will just about touch the steering shaft but with a smooth hand, you can finesse them in there without having to remove the steering shaft. It's easier to install for the novice if the spark plugs are removed as well. But definitely not required. Twist the spark plug wires before you remove them. Rock out and have at it. Easy stuff and the juice is definitely worth the squeeze on LTHs!! Ivan @ Southwest Speed |
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12-28-2014, 02:54 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2012 camaro 2ss Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: ohio
Posts: 122
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I Just did mine couple weeks ago and THE OIL DIPSTICK SUCKS- YOU WILL SEE.
I would look from the bottom and have someone any one pull it out from the top so you can you see where it goes. I would do the passenger side headers first. Don't matter but Its something about doing the harder side first. i did not remove spark plugs just take your time and be careful-but it would be smarter if you did. Torq wrench to be sure. My area don't do emissions check so i skip the cats. but off road collectors look like cats for the cops though. use stock gm gaskets and bolts. since i did it alone I saw somewhere where you install the new headers with the 2 end bolts and cut a small part off the gaskets and let it slide in that way.( like the ends hook in and hang) then put the bolts in and tighten. anti siez the bolts. That was a great help to instal the gaskets. When you done and get a tune. checked it after 100 miles and re tighten the bolts. but they was not loose -torq wrench and just rechecked to be sure couple days ago and it was all good. ohhh did i mention the dip stick sucked. trying to wiggle it back in and it curves and as just some bull. on my car it was. GOOD LUCK THOUGH!!
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12-28-2014, 03:01 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,739
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Quote:
Be sure to re-check the header bolts after about 500 miles.
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12-28-2014, 04:19 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 victory red 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Winfield, Kansas
Posts: 202
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alright sounds like this may go pretty smoothly. thanks for all the advice everyone ill post up once if got it all done.
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12-28-2014, 04:49 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2011ss/rs camaro Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 1,261
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A good read is also found in the DIY section
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12-31-2014, 11:48 AM | #14 | |
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Drives: 2016 CAMARO SS/ gpi built Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Cabot ar
Posts: 374
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Quote:
i went with texas speed 1 7/8th 304 stainless with off road connection pipes. it is a l99 car. the driver side went on great no problom but the oassenger side is guna take some time unless you want to remove the hood and ar left handed. once the stock manifolds ar off and the headers are on. that was just half the battle for me. for some reason the pipe that comes out of the factory resinator curve out wider then the tsp headers. basically had alignment issues. i had to get a tourch and rachet strap and start heating the pipe and slowly bend it togther with out kinking it. finally it all went together. my adivice is to delete your resinator (if its a auto if not you dont have to worry about alingment issues) and install a magnaflow x pipe, i think they are around 100 bucks. that way you come out of the headers through some pipe in to a xpipe into ur mufflers (if ur running mufflers, im not) and out the back. working at a gm dealer i just bought new gm gaskets. afeter a week or so i just went back and tigheted every thing down good. also get good quality 02 extensions from delphi. and yes you will need to have it tuned. imo tsp is the best bag for the money. i hope this helps, pm me with any questions Last edited by hamilton2008; 12-31-2014 at 11:49 AM. Reason: revision |
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