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11-21-2023, 06:09 AM
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#15 |
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 733
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I would pull the head & hope there is part of the bolt above the block surface. With some luck it should come out easily. I'm sure you are trying to save the other bolts & gasket but you will want thoroughly to check the hole & threads for debris or it might happen again.
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2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails.
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11-21-2023, 06:47 AM
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#16 | |
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 829
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Quote:
 You are absolutely correct, that pulling the head will make this tons easier.
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11-21-2023, 08:06 AM
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#17 |
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Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,974
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I read once that a broken bolt loses it tightened torque value in the threaded hole once snapped. It sounded like it was feasible but if true, why are the damn things always still tight? Can it be shocked loose?
Long shot, but since aluminum expands quicker than steel, could heating the block near the bolt help to loosen it up? (assuming you get the easy out out of it) Just spitballing here...
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“I don’t want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.” - Groucho Marx
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11-21-2023, 08:15 AM
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#18 | |
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Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 733
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Quote:
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2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails.
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