TCI Linelock and Stabilitrac

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

The TCI linelock works great. Burnouts before making a pass are much easier to do consistently, with no wear on the rear brakes and rotors as a result.

The downside though is occasionally, after the "service stabilitrac" comes up, the car comes out of "all nannies off mode", and making a decent pass is impossible afterwards.

Instead of the two orange lights for traction control off, and stabilitrac off, which are the two lights that come up when holding the button for 8 seconds, a third orange light comes up which is right above them, the TCS/Stabilitrac light.

There has to be a way to set up the linelock so this wont occur, and ruin the pass you're about to make?

[Jayjellyfish212]

I had to run a relay in mine to act as a abs fuse pull when I arm the master switch ( main power on switch to line lock). Pretty much tricks the system as a bypass and automatically puts it in the all nannies off mode. I do not have any stability track issues anymore as long as I arm the system, do my burnout, roll out then disarm the system. The car then after disarming main line lock master switch, will go into the same settings as if the car was just started and like I did nothing. I then after burnout and power down of line lock, put the hold down 8 seconds on t/c button while rolling up to line. I have the Hurst kit on mine. This happens on most gen5’s but some people with earlier 2010-2012 have reported the stability track not an issue. I seen this occurring a lot no matter what line lock brand you install because it’s the abs module that is triggering the stability track system. The car computer system is actually doing what it is supposed to but we are seeking something else, so you have to trick the computer. Some people have just pulled fuses when say at the track. Some people put the relay switch inline with the main power switch of the line lock. I went with the relay so there is no forgetting to pull fuses etc. plus I like the idea of the relay that anytime I arm the main switch the line lock and computer are ready to go no matter where I am or what I’m doing. I can find the old info for ya if you wanna do the relay install let me know and I’ll add it here. If you decide to do the physically pull the fuse say at the track only I’m sure a few people on here can tell you which 2 fuses I believe need to be removed. Whatever you decide just remember it’s nothing probably wrong with the car or line lock.. just the abs system and stability track system freaking out thinking something wrong. Simple fix and good luck .

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Since I only do burnouts at the dragstrip, the fuse pull would be the way I want to go.

I did a little research, and I believe it's fuse #40, and relay #43. I'll have to figure out where these are located.

The strange thing about it, is it doesn't occur every time. Sometimes the only thing that happens is the "service stabilitrac" comes up, and I just push the button on the turn signal, it goes away and all is good.

But other times the TC/Stabilitrac light will illuminate on the dash cluster, and when this happens, the car turns TC/Stabilitrac back on. I have even had the car cut off after rolling out to a stop. Crank it back up and this light is still on, so I cannot make any kind of decent pass.

Last trip to the strip I almost lost to a Honda due to this, my car only ran 8.1 (1/8th mile), and the Honda ran a 7.9. A .015 tree gave me a .03 win. Glad he wasn't there on my first pass of 7.3, he now thinks he can beat me.

If anyone has a photograph of the location of fuse #40, and relay #43, that would be great, thanks!

[Vegas Bound]

Under the hood.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by Vegas Bound

Under the hood.

Thank you!

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Went to the strip yesterday and made a pass with the #40 and #43 pulled. No stabilitrac codes after engaging line lock and rolling out after burnout.

One thing was odd though. The nannie button did absolutely nothing with the fuse/relay pulled. The lights on the dash stayed the same regardless of how long you held the button down. Dash looked like this. I understand the "ABS" and "BRAKE" lights are from the fuse/relay pull, but are the nannies actually off? I didn't hook on the pass at all, but the time seemed right for having a 1.8 60', the car ran 7.7 (1/8th mile).





This is what I am used to seeing when the button is held for 8 seconds, which lets you know all the nannies are off, but with the fuse/relay pulled, these 2 lights don't come on. Just want to be sure all the nannies are off.

[lincoln361]

[Jayjellyfish212]

Put the relay in like I suggested above and resolve your headaches. With a relay switch on main master switch of your line lock disconnecting the fuse #40 only. With this set up there is no pulling fuses etc. You just arm the master line lock and fuse 40 will disconnect while your line lock is armed and while you use it. After using line lock and you disarm master switch of line lock everything will immediately go back to all standard defaults. Then you can use your traction control as you would want.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by Jayjellyfish212

Put the relay in like I suggested above and resolve your headaches. With a relay switch on main master switch of your line lock disconnecting the fuse #40 only. With this set up there is no pulling fuses etc. You just arm the master line lock and fuse 40 will disconnect while your line lock is armed and while you use it. After using line lock and you disarm master switch of line lock everything will immediately go back to all standard defaults. Then you can use your traction control as you would want.

What difference would this have versus just pulling fuse #40?

Not trying to argue, but wouldn't this relay cause the computer to act exactly the same as pulling fuse#40? I don't mind pulling fuses, it takes less than a minute to do.

I appreciate your intent, but I was hoping someone who pulls their fuses could chime in. Again, I'm not 100% sure pulling the fuses didn't deactivate the stabilitrac, and the traction control, because during the burnout/roll out,
I got no stabilitrac codes as I usually do.

I didn't hook at all off the line due to not being in the groove, the sunlight was blinding in the position it was in, so I couldn't see where the car was aligned, but it did run what it should have based upon the 60' time.

I just need to know if pulling fuse #40, and relay #43 actually deactivates stabilitrac and traction control, because the button normally used to do so did not work at all with them pulled.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

What difference would this have versus just pulling fuse #40?

Not trying to argue, but wouldn't this relay cause the computer to act exactly the same as pulling fuse#40? I don't mind pulling fuses, it takes less than a minute to do.

I appreciate your intent, but I was hoping someone who pulls their fuses could chime in. Again, I'm not 100% sure pulling the fuses didn't deactivate the stabilitrac, and the traction control, because during the burnout/roll out,
I got no stabilitrac codes as I usually do.

I didn't hook at all off the line due to not being in the groove, the sunlight was blinding in the position it was in, so I couldn't see where the car was aligned, but it did run what it should have based upon the 60' time.

I just need to know if pulling fuse #40, and relay #43 actually deactivates stabilitrac and traction control, because the button normally used to do so did not work at all with them pulled.

The answer to your question is yes, by pulling the fuses S/T & T/C are fully disabled! T/C button is not usable!

Differences between fuse pull manually and the relay methods are night and day!

Manually removed-The difference is your physically pulling your fuses (40 & 43) and then running the car with expectations to act like it would normally after using a line lock. The fuses are not in and your running your car all out on a track with brake and ABS issues invited from the start. Not the best way but will keep S/T off.

Inline relay-With the relay method your only putting the car in that situation just during the burn out time only! Only fuse 40 is disarmed temporary. Relay method allows the car the use of the T/C button when line lock is off. Car is safer for the track pass and can be placed in driver preference with T/C button. S/T is never an issue and everything works like it is supposed to.

[lincoln361]

Originally Posted by Jayjellyfish212

I had to run a relay in mine to act as a abs fuse pull when I arm the master switch ( main power on switch to line lock). Pretty much tricks the system as a bypass and automatically puts it in the all nannies off mode. I do not have any stability track issues anymore as long as I arm the system, do my burnout, roll out then disarm the system. The car then after disarming main line lock master switch, will go into the same settings as if the car was just started and like I did nothing. I then after burnout and power down of line lock, put the hold down 8 seconds on t/c button while rolling up to line. I have the Hurst kit on mine. This happens on most gen5’s but some people with earlier 2010-2012 have reported the stability track not an issue. I seen this occurring a lot no matter what line lock brand you install because it’s the abs module that is triggering the stability track system. The car computer system is actually doing what it is supposed to but we are seeking something else, so you have to trick the computer. Some people have just pulled fuses when say at the track. Some people put the relay switch inline with the main power switch of the line lock. I went with the relay so there is no forgetting to pull fuses etc. plus I like the idea of the relay that anytime I arm the main switch the line lock and computer are ready to go no matter where I am or what I’m doing. I can find the old info for ya if you wanna do the relay install let me know and I’ll add it here. If you decide to do the physically pull the fuse say at the track only I’m sure a few people on here can tell you which 2 fuses I believe need to be removed. Whatever you decide just remember it’s nothing probably wrong with the car or line lock.. just the abs system and stability track system freaking out thinking something wrong. Simple fix and good luck .

Do you have the info to line it up with the relay switched? I think this would be the easiest way instead of getting out and taking out the fuses or forgetting to take out the fuses

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by lincoln361

Do you have the info to line it up with the relay switched? I think this would be the easiest way instead of getting out and taking out the fuses or forgetting to take out the fuses

Yes sir I have the info on the relay. How much you willing to pay out for the nice mod ?? Just kidding bro. Give me a little while and I’ll put up the info I used when I was researching and solving the issue myself. I’ll add a diagram to for ya so the info is most up to date. Pretty simple to do once you see how it needs to be laid out on the power line. FYI this nice little fix allows the burn out to take place anywhere. Hint hint. Just remember with this fun stuff we tend to need new tires sooner . Lol

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

My drag radials are at the wear marks, but I have about 60-70 passes or so on them, so can't complain (MT ET Street R).

But in regards to this relay, I'm still not convinced I need it. You say the difference is "night and day", but I don't see that. If Stabiltrac and T/C are disabled by pulling the fuses, now I don't have to even mess with the button. Now all I need to do is burnout/roll out, enable nitrous, purge, stage, and try to cut the best light I can. I can pull the fuses in less than a minute when I'm at the strip. Very easy to do. Put them in a ziplock bag, and reinstall them when I'm ready to leave.

The ABS and BRAKE lights do come on with the fuses pulled, but I had no issues with the brakes when the run was done. The strip I go to has an incline after the 1/8th mile is done, so slowing down isn't an issue.

I just wanted to be sure all the nannies are actually off when the fuses are pulled, and evidently they are.

It seems to me the fuse pull is better, because you don't have to deal with the button at all to disable Stabilitrac and T/C.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

My drag radials are at the wear marks, but I have about 60-70 passes or so on them, so can't complain (MT ET Street R).

But in regards to this relay, I'm still not convinced I need it. You say the difference is "night and day", but I don't see that. If Stabiltrac and T/C are disabled by pulling the fuses, now I don't have to even mess with the button. Now all I need to do is burnout/roll out, enable nitrous, purge, stage, and try to cut the best light I can. I can pull the fuses in less than a minute when I'm at the strip. Very easy to do. Put them in a ziplock bag, and reinstall them when I'm ready to leave.

The ABS and BRAKE lights do come on with the fuses pulled, but I had no issues with the brakes when the run was done. The strip I go to has an incline after the 1/8th mile is done, so slowing down isn't an issue.

I just wanted to be sure all the nannies are actually off when the fuses are pulled, and evidently they are.

It seems to me the fuse pull is better, because you don't have to deal with the button at all to disable Stabilitrac and T/C.

Joe- good deal the S/t stays off for you regardless what way you go about it. That’s really the main focus regardless is so you don’t have to shut the car down when S/t pops up and restart to clear the system etc. Nothing more aggravating than that no doubt. The way your doing by manually pulling the fuses will put your car in and keep your car in all nannies off mode. I just went the relay mod myself because I can’t stand to see crap lights on the dashboard etc. I also didn’t want to run full all out passes on the track with those lights on.

No worries brother. Just happy to know your good to go and stability track is in check now. That’s what this forum really is all about. Helping each other out.