08-17-2013, 12:21 PM | #99 |
Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arvada, Colorado
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Those are ZR1 plugs, those are tge plug of choice for Ted.
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08-17-2013, 12:22 PM | #100 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Down South
Posts: 1,497
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SSS are you running a micro-switch or Electronic TPS.
Two things should have prevented this. 1. Window switch should have shut off the nitrous well before the car hit the rev limiter. 2. Your WOT activation switch should have shut off the nitrous when the PCM closed the TB If you are using a micro switch that goes on the foot pedal then you were WOT(pedal to the floor) even thought the actual TB might have been closed by the PCM.
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2005 Dodge Ram 2500 RCSB Thunder Road Hemi Sport w/STS Turbo
2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 - Silver - Stock 2003 Chevy 1500 RCSB Stepside 400SS - 408 in now awaiting Turbo |
08-17-2013, 12:24 PM | #101 |
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08-17-2013, 12:48 PM | #102 |
Geek
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I'm no plug expert, but if he's not detonating or having plug related issues... Why go colder?
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x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
08-17-2013, 01:17 PM | #103 |
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Just because u don't see knock on the log doesn't mean it's not occurring. Nitrous doesn't like projected tip plug. Let alone having boost and nitrous. A number 6 plug is a great choice for Cammed na setups.
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08-17-2013, 01:19 PM | #104 |
Geek
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That makes sense. Thanks for the input.
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x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
08-17-2013, 02:05 PM | #105 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Down South
Posts: 1,497
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Quote:
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2005 Dodge Ram 2500 RCSB Thunder Road Hemi Sport w/STS Turbo
2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10 - Silver - Stock 2003 Chevy 1500 RCSB Stepside 400SS - 408 in now awaiting Turbo |
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08-17-2013, 02:44 PM | #106 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
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Need non projected tip plugs if using any nitrous.
Need at least 1 step colder than stock for boost AND one step colder for the spray. At least. Need a controller, or at least a rev limiter that will shut down the spark without shutting the throttle blades. That way the spray will go out the exhaust for the engine cycles that aren't firing, rather than stack up in the air intake tract. Need an AFR much richer than when using boost alone, as shown on the wideband. I've mentioned these things on this forum in some previous threads but I always get shot down, then when carnage happens everyone blames the spray and gets afraid of it. Glad to see Jaime isn't afraid to use it again. With these things I mentioned alot of nitrous problems wouldn't happen. May or may not have saved this engine, that could be debated forever without an answer. Just Don't be afraid of nitrous, do the things I listed, retard the timing and make sure the fuel supply is plenty and all will be good.
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2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
Last edited by dan0617; 08-17-2013 at 02:56 PM. |
08-17-2013, 03:43 PM | #107 |
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On nitrous and boost, a wideband is ok for getting in the ballpark, but I final tune off plug reading for fuel and timing.
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08-17-2013, 05:33 PM | #108 |
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I wouldn't go two steps colder, not really needed. Jamie drives his car, he wouldn't want all the drivability issues of two step colder plugs.
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08-17-2013, 05:35 PM | #109 |
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I daily on BR7ef's, its really not bad. Id rather run a safer plug and it be more cold natured, than having a good daily driving plug and melt stuff.
Or, run around on a number 6 plug and swap to 7's at the track. My motor makes the same power on motor with the 7's as it it did with #6 plugs. And they are gapped at .025 |
08-17-2013, 05:46 PM | #110 |
Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arvada, Colorado
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I ran 7s before I went to the #6 ZR1s, I hated driving the car before I made the switch, terrible to drive in town in traffic. But I agree with the possibility of swapping at the track, that would be a good solution.
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08-17-2013, 05:56 PM | #111 |
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Spark plugs had NOTHING to do with what happened. Wouldn't have mattered if the plugs I was using were made by GOD. The two melted plugs had no chance.
The plugs that I have been using have been good. And I have been using them since day 1. Even the plugs on the other 6 cylinders looked very good after this incident. I pull a plug after every pass. Not only do I inspect it I send multiple photos to Ted along with the log and wait to hear back before I make another pass. I know that know one else is taking this to that level. That's why my car has been able the way it is for 4 years. Like I said, a few times now...if you race the car as much as I do there will come a point where the shit hits the fan, and it did. Unlike a lot of people my car is an open book, I'm not cutting weight or running on the ragged edge to post a number. Everyone knows what the deal is inside and out. I'll continue to run whatever Ted puts in the car, why, because it has worked all along and there is no denying that. |
08-17-2013, 05:59 PM | #112 | |
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Quote:
By the time you add up all the machining costs and down time it actually make more sense to just buy a brand new GM LS3 block. They aren't that much money. Plus at this point, I'm way past worrying about a few extra nickels. I think I'm going to send my block to ERL to have them redo it. |
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