02-19-2020, 11:23 AM | #1 |
Give speed a chance
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 2,204
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ZL 1 LSA Supercharger brick
Recently I was conversing with a fellow at a local shop and he cautioned me about a problem with the "brick" portion of the supercharger. He mentioned this problem occurs around 40K miles and involves some sort of leak. He said you can remove and reinforce/weld to prevent a potential disaster. How big of a problem is this and what is the proper way to address it?
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02-19-2020, 12:32 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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It isn't hard if you can weld or know a welder who can TIG. It involves removing the lid, taking out the bricks and welding a 1/8" piece of aluminum along the side that faces into the blower.
It is very common on C6 ZR1s to have the bricks reinforced. I dont know how prevalent it is on ZL1s but if you run your car hard or have upped the horsepower, I would do it. Reinforcing is cheaper than a fixing/replacing a hydro-locked engine because coolant got into a cylinder. Here is a pic of the LS9 bricks I just sold that are reinforced. The 2nd pic of is non-reinforced and what can happen because of heat. |
02-19-2020, 12:33 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 and 2019 Ram Laramie Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 1,259
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I never heard of the brick failing at 40 k w/o mods. Failure can occur with mods increasing the pressure. It is not expensive to do: $100-$150.
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02-19-2020, 12:35 PM | #4 |
Big Crow
Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1,473
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You answered your own question
Some builders have noted it happen with as low as stock boost. The higher the boost the more likely to bend the end. They weld on a plate to the end so it doesn't push in. The brick is like a mini-radiator so the end is the part that gets pushed in. If it doesn't leak you have lost flow and charge cooling efficiency. If it does leak it could be bad depending on how big the leak. It is on a checklist of things to do for any saavy LSA upgrader. Only about $100 mod. I haven't done mine yet but it is at the top of the list. I would consider that less of a problem than newer SC engines completely blowing the fins off their intercoolers, yikes. They posted before me so sounds like I was derrr repeating what they said, oh well. |
02-19-2020, 03:21 PM | #5 |
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Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Hospitality State
Posts: 2,558
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Had mine reinforced when I changed the pulleys. I figured 16-17 lbs would be too much for a stock brick. Shop near Austin, TX does it for about $100.
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02-22-2020, 10:31 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 314
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Very common problem on the LSA. As previously mentioned it has been know to happen on stock boost. I just had mine reinforced this past fall. $32 for the aluminum plates and $60 for a local shop to weld them on ("local" it was Steeda lol). The biggest pain in removing the s/c lid due to the 6 rear bolts under the cowl. Other than that it's a super easy and cheap mod.
And yes, the CTS-V brick is slightly different than ours due to lid design. So in your searching make sure you get the ZL1 specific plates and/or brick. Here is some good info about it: https://fiinterchillers.com/lsa-inte...reinforcement/ |
02-22-2020, 11:07 AM | #7 | |
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Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Hospitality State
Posts: 2,558
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Quote:
I drilled holes in the upper valance to have easy access to the rear bolts in the future. It is covered by the plastic panel so you can't see the holes. |
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