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Old 05-05-2018, 07:09 PM   #2003
hammdo
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I used clear silicone to fill the holes. I used friction tape to hold the gauges — they have not moved at all.

Yep, find work-arounds ;o)...

Post up a vid so we can see your work!

BTW, like the new avatar...

-Don
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:50 PM   #2004
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Thanks. Been using that one since I got the NCM pics from CF7 last year. Oh and by the way, about that number thing at NCM. Aren't you the one that nicked #13 before I could get it? Should I ever do that again I'll be sure to get there by 5am so as to beat you to it.

Car is at Kirk's today getting polished and ceramic coating put on. May not get it back until Monday. Be nice if I could find some consistent information about cure times for the coating.

I doubt my work will be as meticulous are yours Don, since I will be forgoing the sexy cable covering you put on the tail but, it will be tied up as neat as I can get it. I'm kinda anal 'bout cable management.

I've got 2 rolls of bat/hockey stick tape, I've had for I forget how many years, standing by. I knew there was a reason I kept those rolls hanging on the board over my bench. The pod instructions even say to use it. Why even bother putting the strip of double sided tape in the pod?
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:58 PM   #2005
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I have my own numbers now ;o)

Yep the tape works well, they should just include that.

As I get older, I seem to want it to look ‘nice’ too... eh, racing don’t care if it looks pretty - just that it works...

-Don
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Old 05-05-2018, 08:14 PM   #2006
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Now that I’ve finished my after track review, I’ll need to replace the brake pads after my next race. I’m just about @ 50% pad left and, since these absorb most of the heat, will need to be done soon. I’ll save the old ones just in case I need a set to hold me over.

Did a Garry Dean wash and detail today — very nice weather to do that. Ran the car again no oil and still dry as a bone. Have the front up on race ramps to force oil to the rear of the engine... looking good so far!

-Don
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:07 AM   #2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammdo View Post
I used clear silicone to fill the holes. I used friction tape to hold the gauges — they have not moved at all.

Yep, find work-arounds ;o)...

Post up a vid so we can see your work!

BTW, like the new avatar...

-Don

Here ya go Don. Figured I'd clutter up my own thread. Probably take me longer to get a quarter as far as you've brought your Camaro.
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:25 PM   #2008
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So, I think I finally have the oil leaking solved. The new gaskets on the Mishimoto, tightening up of the hoses, along with a bit of heat wrap and finally, no leaking from the sandwich. The leaking I notice on the passenger's side is now gone. I used Teflon paste on the inspection cover bolt and that took care of the small leak. Whew...

Pat_t turned me onto these (his pic):



https://www.rigidcollar.eu/



ordered them here:

http://www.gotuning.com/

It will be necessary to send a request to info@gotuning.com -- ask for Tommy Ha to hook you up!

I'm just waiting on them to arrive!

-Don
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:08 AM   #2009
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Don,


On those Interceptor gauges, if you could only have 4 parameters shown, what would you have displayed on them?
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:59 PM   #2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonman View Post
Don,


On those Interceptor gauges, if you could only have 4 parameters shown, what would you have displayed on them?
Coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, iat (supercharged) or

Fuel pressure, trans temp (auto), vacuum(boost), alcohol % (e85)

If forced to choose.. the first set...

-Don
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:28 PM   #2011
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Alright, now for the next question, you can have all 8 that you just picked, 4 on each gauge, which ones do you put where?
















yeah I know, I'm being a pest.



I've decided on at least 3 (same as your first 3) and another, but I'm still deciding what to use for the others. I'll have 16 parameters set in the full cyclic, just because I can. The thing is, the bar graph feature is really growing on me as a default display and I know what four readings I want on the right gauge and still deciding, if I run both in bar graph mode, what to put on the left, and what the left over 8 will be for the full cyclic scan. Any thoughts you'd care to share on this arrangement would be appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:16 PM   #2012
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So I have 16 (2 per page, 4 pages per gauge) however;

Temps,

Pressures/fueling.

Coolant temp, oil temp, trans temp, iat temp on one

Fuel pressure, oil pressure, boost, alcohol on the other

I have a wide band for Lambda/AFR

But, I have 16 and use them all ;o)

That way I know my temps at a glance on one, pressures on the other...

Bar, however, would be great for racing! Good idea!

-Don
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:47 PM   #2013
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That makes sense. I'll be using all 16 as well but since I plan to run at least the right gauge in 4 bar graph mode most of the time, I don't really care for the cyclic mode much, and when I run the left gauge in 4 bar mode I'm going with this for now and we'll see how it works out and if you, or anyone else, have suggestions, I'd be glad to hear them.

Left Gauge;
  1. DI Fuel Pressure
  2. Oil Pressure
  3. Rail Pressure (undocumented parameter for firmware 3.8.2)
  4. Barometric pressure (mostly just because it's a pressure readout)
    1. Delivered Torque (it's a pressure, sort of)
    2. HP (another measure of sort of pressure)
    3. MAF
    4. Ambient Air Temp (yeah, maybe this should go on the right with the other temps, not sure what else to put here instead)
Right Gauge;
  1. Coolant Temp
  2. Oil Temp (calc)
  3. Trans Temp
  4. IAT
    1. Cat Temp B1S1
    2. Cat Temp B2S1 (not sure which cat either of these readings show, since there are 4 but stuck 'em here since they are temps)
    3. Ignition Advance
    4. Knock Retard
Don't have a SC (boost) or alcohol so don't need either of those and I don't think I even picked either as a parameter to scan during setup.




Thanks for your help Don
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:14 PM   #2014
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Anytime!

That will be a great setup...

-Don
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:47 PM   #2015
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I finally got it set up, after the wife came down and decided to bend my ear for a couple hours, and I have to ask now, what's the difference between di rail and rail pressure? If those are displaying PSI they are wildly different readings. At idle the di runs over 600 and the rail runs less than 50.

Also like to ask what the the B1S1 CMD EQ parameter is reading? It's another that's undocumented, of which I found 5 total parameters that aren't listed in the manual. The other three are Fuel Trim Cell, Slip Speed RPM & one I didn't chose to scan, Oil Press 2, which I'm pretty sure requires another sensor be installed.

I actually changed the list above


Left Gauge;
  1. DI Fuel Pressure
  2. Oil Pressure
  3. MAP kPa Sensor
  4. Rail Pressure (undocumented parameter for firmware 3.8.2) Barometric pressure (mostly just because it's a pressure readout)
    1. Delivered Torque (it's a pressure, sort of)
    2. HP (another measure of sort of pressure)
    3. MAF
    4. Ambient Air Temp (yeah, maybe this should go on the right with the other temps, not sure what else to put here instead)
Right Gauge;
  1. Coolant Temp
  2. Oil Temp (calc)
  3. Trans Temp
  4. IAT
    1. Cat Temp B1S1
    2. Cat Temp B2S1 (not sure which cat either of these readings show, since there are 4 but stuck 'em here since they are temps)
    3. Ignition Advance
    4. Knock Retard

I had a bunch of other questions about these parameters and what they tell a person but it's getting late and I don't remember what they were. I'd ask the folks at AeroForce tech but their support forum registration is broke.
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:22 PM   #2016
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B1S1 is Bank 1 station 1 if I remember right...

B2S1 is Bank 2 station 1. Those are the sensors in the exhaust. Bank 1 is drivers side. Station 1 is closest to engine.

Have to ck the others...

-Don
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