[KILLA BEE]

Today after getting gas my Z started acting weird getting a flashing CEL when I WOT and going away seconds after I let off. It continued this basically all day even while at the track. So I’m thinking it’s gotta be the gas (probably) so when I got home I. Decided to check the oil which I really don’t ever do unless the low oil light comes in (if the Z has one) so I checked the oil as Damn!! It’s low!! (If it’s that level hot as hell cold is probably LOW LOW)
My car hasn’t had ANY problems until after getting gas. I’m now starting to think the CEL was in regards to the oil level??? Needless to say I’m getting oil before starting her AGAIN. In the picture I’m sure some of the oil dripped down on stick it was barely past that first line

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by KILLA BEE

Decided to check the oil which I really don’t ever do unless the low oil light comes in (if the Z has one) so I checked the oil as Damn!! It’s low!! (If it’s that level hot as hell cold is probably LOW LOW)
My car hasn’t had ANY problems until after getting gas. I’m now starting to think the CEL was in regards to the oil level??? Needless to say I’m getting oil before starting her AGAIN. In the picture I’m sure some of the oil dripped down on stick it was barely past that first line

Not necessarily, did you wait a 15-20 minutes for the oil to settle back down in the pan before taking the reading? I usually check it after it has been sitting overnight. I would wait until it cools down and if it is still low then add a half a quart and take another reading. If that was a cold reading I would say it needs a quart or two based on my experience changing my oil.

[KILLA BEE]

Originally Posted by raptor5244

Not necessarily, did you wait a 15-20 minutes for the oil to settle back down in the pan before taking the reading? I usually check it after it has been sitting overnight. I would wait until it cools down and if it is still low then add a half a quart and take another reading. If that was a cold reading I would say it needs a quart or two based on my experience changing my oil.

That was after driving all day so I can imagine cold. I will recheck in the morning

[Stephen12ZL1]

relax...in the hash marks is "safe". When you check it cold, it will likely read higher as oil has settled to the pan. A low oil situation will not cause a flashing check engine light but the DIC would alert if the oil was low or oil pressure was low. I know this as I had the infamous oil pump failure in my '17 ZL1...no check engine light but alerts indicating to "reduce engine speed" then "stop engine" because of low oil pressure. Scan the car for a possible stored code as many people get knock sensor codes or random misfires causing the flashing check engine light.

[Vigilante375]

The cars do lose oil when driven hard, especially at the track. As mentioned you generally wait up to 30 minutes before checking the oil so that it has time to settle.

A hot engine will read much lower than a cold engine. As long as it's in the hash, you're OK but if that reading was from waiting at least 30 minutes then you need to add a quart or so. If it was bad gas, you'd know. I had bad has my Tundra once and it wouldn't start the engine immediately. It would take a extra 2 or 3 turns of the ignition. Plus I had a CEL on the whole time once it did start.

For the check engine light, what else was going on at that time? Were you coming out of a corner? Were you WOT down a straight? How much has was in the car at the time? Did it feel like it was reducing power? What mods do you have or are you stock?

You could have air in the supercharger coolant. But you might be able to go to Autozone and let them do a free scan to see if the codes are stored in the car.

[LiqTenExp]

Agree, there is tons of oil in that car, I wouldn't be worried about low oil.

[LT4Greg]

From the pic of the dipstick looks to be about a quart low. Mine was like that 2 weeks ago and I added a quart and was good to go. I did check it when the engine was cold from overnight sitting.

[KILLA BEE]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

The cars do lose oil when driven hard, especially at the track. As mentioned you generally wait up to 30 minutes before checking the oil so that it has time to settle.

A hot engine will read much lower than a cold engine. As long as it's in the hash, you're OK but if that reading was from waiting at least 30 minutes then you need to add a quart or so. If it was bad gas, you'd know. I had bad has my Tundra once and it wouldn't start the engine immediately. It would take a extra 2 or 3 turns of the ignition. Plus I had a CEL on the whole time once it did start.

For the check engine light, what else was going on at that time? Were you coming out of a corner? Were you WOT down a straight? How much has was in the car at the time? Did it feel like it was reducing power? What mods do you have or are you stock?

You could have air in the supercharger coolant. But you might be able to go to Autozone and let them do a free scan to see if the codes are stored in the car.

Okay I was WOT in a straight I had just filled the tank with gas. It would go immediately off when I wasn’t WOT. I have headers and E. Already checked to see if a plug wire was touching anything I have msd plugs and boots to halt that. And no I didn’t have any power loss jus sputtering of the engine, that’s why I thought it was possibly the ga. I checked this morning it’s the same level maybe a tad less but still hitting a hash mark. Time to add some maybe a quart at a time then recheck

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by KILLA BEE

Okay I was WOT in a straight I had just filled the tank with gas. It would go immediately off when I wasn’t WOT. I have headers and E. Already checked to see if a plug wire was touching anything I have msd plugs and boots to halt that. And no I didn’t have any power loss jus sputtering of the engine, that’s why I thought it was possibly the ga. I checked this morning it’s the same level maybe a tad less but still hitting a hash mark. Time to add some maybe a quart at a time then recheck

Thanks for filling in the extra details. So sputtering of the engine while WOT could be bad gas or spark plugs, etc.

Since you're running E and have headers, you're tuned. Maybe something in there didn't like the mixture. I'd say run through maybe 2 full tanks then try to do some WOT pulls on the street to see if it goes away.

Did the car start ok while you were at the track? Did it hesitate or take extra time to start? Just wondering.

[WhiteMale]

Flashing CEL is a misfire, I had this recently immediately after a fillup (half tank at the most) on BP 93 on a WOT pull. I hooked up my OBDII scanner and it had no codes and the light had gone out <1 min after illuminating. But it caused me some concern. Temps were super cold that day and I figured it got a gulp of 10 degree air that I didn't like. So far so good, no reoccurance.

[WhiteMale]

This is bad:

Decided to check the oil which I really don’t ever do unless the low oil light comes in

[KingLT1]

These engines hold 10 quarts of oil, so being down a quart wouldn't cause an issue.

Flashing CEL is a misfire as mentioned above.

I would check the plug wires again. MSD wires are notorious for being difficult to "click" into place.

That being said with a flex sensor I wouldn't go out and floor it right away after getting fuel. If the alcohol composition changed it needs 5-10 minutes of drive time to adjust the fuel trims.

[ariZona28]

Originally Posted by KILLA BEE

Decided to check the oil which I really don’t ever do unless the low oil light comes in

Shame, shame.

[KILLA BEE]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

This is bad:

Decided to check the oil which I really don’t ever do unless the low oil light comes in

Agreed