Announcing: Forza 3-Way Exhaust Controller for NPP Exhaust

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

$164.50 still a good price?

Increased a bit since that post in 2015 ...

http://www.forzacomponenti.com/controller_e2.html

Steve

[15RS2NV]

I'm wondering why would someone want it to stay closed?

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by 15RS2NV

I'm wondering why would someone want it to stay closed?

Some people have installed long tube headers which makes it louder. Some have also performed a cat delete ... louder still. I know a couple of people who have modified the engine tuning with cam shafts and and ECU tune. Anyway, there are some really loud Camaro's out there. And, keep in mind, when you first start the car, the car's ECU sets the exhaust bypass valves to the open position until the engine revs above idle. So, at idle, there are some cars that are wicked loud.

As some people have told me, their car scares small children, causes dogs to start barking, wakes the neighbors and pisses off the wife ... especially early in the morning or late at night. Hence, a reason to force the valves closed.

Steve

[Tompar]

How much shipped to Quebec City, (QC), Canada ? Waiting for your PM

[forzasteve]

Hello Tompar,

The 3 way controller is the Model E2 and it cost $189 (http://www.forzacomponenti.com/controller_e2.html)

Shipping to Canada ...

UPS Ground delivery ... $25
USPS Priority Mail ... $30
UPS Express... $47

Best regards,

Steve

[2SSHAKE]

Hopefully this will help someone out. If you set the controller to be closed and turn off the car it will drain your battery as the flap needs power to hold closed. Naturally it wants to stay open. I was experiencing dead battery every 4 days and found out through the multimeter that it had a parasitic draw due to this. So the fix would be to switch to oem or open before you shut off the car.

Steve, maybe the controller can be programmed to go back to stock or open when the car is shut off??

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by 2SSHAKE

Hopefully this will help someone out. If you set the controller to be closed and turn off the car it will drain your battery as the flap needs power to hold closed. Naturally it wants to stay open. I was experiencing dead battery every 4 days and found out through the multimeter that it had a parasitic draw due to this. So the fix would be to switch to oem or open before you shut off the car.

Steve, maybe the controller can be programmed to go back to stock or open when the car is shut off??

Is this on the manual set up?

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by 2SSHAKE

Hopefully this will help someone out. If you set the controller to be closed and turn off the car it will drain your battery as the flap needs power to hold closed. Naturally it wants to stay open. I was experiencing dead battery every 4 days and found out through the multimeter that it had a parasitic draw due to this. So the fix would be to switch to oem or open before you shut off the car.

Steve, maybe the controller can be programmed to go back to stock or open when the car is shut off??

You are correct. In the normal install where the fuse tap is located in the fuse box in the vehicle's trunk, there is a parasitic current draw. More if you leave the car in the "Always Closed" mode as current is being provided to the car's vacuum control valve which draws about 750 ma or so. In addition, the controller itself draws a small amount of current to keep power on the logic board. If you leave the car in the "Always Closed" mode, the current draw could be close to 1 ampere which would draw down the battery to under 10 volts in a short period of time. You noted that this occurred in about 4 days. That is about right for a high capacity battery in good condition.


Leaving the car in OEM (i.e., Normal) or Open mode will reduce the parasitic current draw, but not eliminate it entirely. But the current draw will be more in the range of 25 to 40 ma. At that rate, it will take about 25 to 35 days to adversely affect the battery.


As all of the fuse locations in the rear compartment fuse box are always live (that is, they remain hot even if the ignition is turned off), there is no way to completely eliminate the current draw. You do have the option of disconnecting the controller module if you are going to leave the car unattended for an extended period of time. You can either manually disconnect the yellow wire to the controller module or merely turn off the On/Off switch on the controller.


There is another option. You can connect the controller module's yellow wire to a circuit on the car that is switched to the car's ignition. That is, find a fuse location or other circuit that switches off when you turn off the car's ignition. There are fuse locations in the instrument panel fuse box located in the passenger compartment that are switched. You can also tap into a hot wire that is accessed near the luggage compartment fuse box. Instructions for tapping into this wire are included in the Forza controller installation instructions document. Once you obtain power from a switched circuit, you will not need to be concerned about parasitic current drain.


Steve

[2SSHAKE]

Originally Posted by forzasteve

You are correct. In the normal install where the fuse tap is located in the fuse box in the vehicle's trunk, there is a parasitic current draw. More if you leave the car in the "Always Closed" mode as current is being provided to the car's vacuum control valve which draws about 750 ma or so. In addition, the controller itself draws a small amount of current to keep power on the logic board. If you leave the car in the "Always Closed" mode, the current draw could be close to 1 ampere which would draw down the battery to under 10 volts in a short period of time. You noted that this occurred in about 4 days. That is about right for a high capacity battery in good condition.


Leaving the car in OEM (i.e., Normal) or Open mode will reduce the parasitic current draw, but not eliminate it entirely. But the current draw will be more in the range of 25 to 40 ma. At that rate, it will take about 25 to 35 days to adversely affect the battery.


As all of the fuse locations in the rear compartment fuse box are always live (that is, they remain hot even if the ignition is turned off), there is no way to completely eliminate the current draw. You do have the option of disconnecting the controller module if you are going to leave the car unattended for an extended period of time. You can either manually disconnect the yellow wire to the controller module or merely turn off the On/Off switch on the controller.


There is another option. You can connect the controller module's yellow wire to a circuit on the car that is switched to the car's ignition. That is, find a fuse location or other circuit that switches off when you turn off the car's ignition. There are fuse locations in the instrument panel fuse box located in the passenger compartment that are switched. You can also tap into a hot wire that is accessed near the luggage compartment fuse box. Instructions for tapping into this wire are included in the Forza controller installation instructions document. Once you obtain power from a switched circuit, you will not need to be concerned about parasitic current drain.


Steve

Great feedback. It seems keeping it open right before shutting off the car only draws about 20 mA which is normal. I just got to remember to do this. Thanks!

[BEECHFRONT]

no way the wiring harness plugs are fitting through that grommet hole on your instructions with the e2

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by BEECHFRONT

no way the wiring harness plugs are fitting through that grommet hole on your instructions with the e2

Everyone else that purchased one managed to fit. Perhaps you are looking at the wrong grommet hole. This is the grommet hole (center of photo) that the cable is routed through. I can assure that it wasn't done with black magic nor was the cable cut and re-spliced. It fits.


Steve

[BEECHFRONT]

Originally Posted by forzasteve

Everyone else that purchased one managed to fit. Perhaps you are looking at the wrong grommet hole. This is the grommet hole (center of photo) that the cable is routed through. I can assure that it wasn't done with black magic nor was the cable cut and re-spliced. It fits.


Steve

nope thats the only hole and its way to small , your old camaro 3 way harness and controller had seperate wires to controller and that fits through that hole , I installed your older version in another 5th gen 3 yrs ago and no problem fitting it through the hole your new e2 has a big plug on the end that plugs into controller, no way that plug fits through that hole

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by BEECHFRONT

nope thats the only hole and its way to small , your old camaro 3 way harness and controller had seperate wires to controller and that fits through that hole , I installed your older version in another 5th gen 3 yrs ago and no problem fitting it through the hole your new e2 has a big plug on the end that plugs into controller, no way that plug fits through that hole

I stand corrected. You are correct. That photo was taken with the former wiring harness which had four individual ends with small quick release plugs. The new wiring harness is a Y-cable with a 4-way connector on one end and two 2-way connectors on the other. That small hole is likely too small for the 4-way connector, but try to see if one can fit each of the 2-way connectors through the hole one at a time. But, there are other grommet holes that one can use. Some are are quite large which are large enough for the 4-way connector.


Steve