Did I Permanently mess up my AFR? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

booneSS13 · 09-30-2016, 09:48 AM

Long story short, I didn't know that you couldn't just extend the o2 sensor wires using solder. I did this and now I have a P0030 (HO2S Healer Control Circuit Conditions) & for B2AAA code. I replaced the crimp connectors that I used temporarily before the extend the wires with solder.

Now when I drive it my short term fuel trim on that bank stays in the high 20's!

The biggest problem is that I extended the wires coming from the car instead of the wires coming from the o2 sensor... Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this

BTW: Lesson learned, just buy the extenders!

frankwjr · 09-30-2016, 09:53 AM

You answered your own question...your extender wires combined with soldering f'd the resistance in the wire so readings will never be right..replace and good luck...

booneSS13 · 09-30-2016, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankwjr

You answered your own question...your extender wires combined with soldering f'd the resistance in the wire so readings will never be right..replace and good luck...

Yeah now I'm actually getting a higher voltage than I'm supposed to get I'm getting .64 volts from the bank 1 sensor. I don't know where to replace it from. Even if I replace it back by the ECU there's no way at least that I know that I can avoid using solder now

Russell James · 09-30-2016, 11:58 AM

I would just redo those connections on that side. Get some good bare crimp connections. Crimp good, and solder that joint real good. Making sure it's not a cold solder. Heat the crimp up until the solder flows into it. Then heat shrink over it.

I would think a splice joint done right should be fine. Could also swap O2 sides to see if the problem follows the O2.

A good crimped and soldered joint should add next to no resistance to the circuit. And those circuits have several connections...so they are not perfect to begin with.

booneSS13 · 10-03-2016, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

I would just redo those connections on that side. Get some good bare crimp connections. Crimp good, and solder that joint real good. Making sure it's not a cold solder. Heat the crimp up until the solder flows into it. Then heat shrink over it.

I would think a splice joint done right should be fine. Could also swap O2 sides to see if the problem follows the O2.

A good crimped and soldered joint should add next to no resistance to the circuit. And those circuits have several connections...so they are not perfect to begin with.

I ended finding out it was the o2 fuse that blew which probably happened when I was soldering the wires. Seems to run fine now. My fuel trims are where they should be and it's going into closed loop again.

frankwjr · 10-03-2016, 04:54 PM

Good catch!

09-30-2016, 09:48 AM	#1
booneSS13 Drives: 2013 Camaro SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Davenport IA Posts: 718	Did I Permanently mess up my AFR? Long story short, I didn't know that you couldn't just extend the o2 sensor wires using solder. I did this and now I have a P0030 (HO2S Healer Control Circuit Conditions) & for B2AAA code. I replaced the crimp connectors that I used temporarily before the extend the wires with solder. Now when I drive it my short term fuel trim on that bank stays in the high 20's! The biggest problem is that I extended the wires coming from the car instead of the wires coming from the o2 sensor... Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this BTW: Lesson learned, just buy the extenders! __________________ *Romans 5:8* But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. -Fastlane Cold Air Intake, NPP cat back exhaust, Stainless Works LT Headers, 2r max camshaft, Stage 3 Ported Heads (Manley Stainless steel values, titanium retainers, dual valve springs, bronze guides), Wiseco Forged Pistons, K1 Forged Rods, Clevite Bearings, Factory Crankshaft, Comp Cams rocker arm trunion kit, Morel 5315 lifters, JP performance single billet timing chain, Melling oil pump, Spec stage 3+ clutch and flywheel, BMR trailing arms, Nitto 555r 305/35/20.

09-30-2016, 09:53 AM	#2
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	You answered your own question...your extender wires combined with soldering f'd the resistance in the wire so readings will never be right..replace and good luck... __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

10-03-2016, 04:54 PM	#6
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	Good catch! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

09-30-2016, 11:58 AM	#4
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	I would just redo those connections on that side. Get some good bare crimp connections. Crimp good, and solder that joint real good. Making sure it's not a cold solder. Heat the crimp up until the solder flows into it. Then heat shrink over it. I would think a splice joint done right should be fine. Could also swap O2 sides to see if the problem follows the O2. A good crimped and soldered joint should add next to no resistance to the circuit. And those circuits have several connections...so they are not perfect to begin with.