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Old 12-24-2015, 11:31 AM   #15
JANNETTYRACING

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smirnoff View Post
Hey Ted,

Out of all of the options you offer - what is your opinion on the best LS3 (2010) forced induction option regarding the following:

1. Maximum of 6lbs of boost
2. Minimal cutting, splicing, soldering, drilling, hacking, etc to install
3. Quality (no maintenance or known issues; heatsink, failures, excuses, etc)
4. Warranty (actually back their product)

I thought some early FI versions with an 80-page installation manual were very-very crude, especially if a decision was made to remove it & go back to stock (car didn’t look stock).

Have you installed & tuned a Procharger i-1 yet, if so, what are your thoughts & would it be considered? I like the capability of turning on/off boost & the options of programming, however, I question the longevity of the CVT belt…..
The cleanest, Easiest to install, least maintenance, and revert to stock would be the SLP TVS 2300.

Warranty is about the same for all of them, and honestly we never had to use it on any of them.

They pretty much all make the same power at 6 psi boost.

The Centrifugal will have a slight edge in power boost for boost due to slightly more efficient and less HP consumed to turn it.

I have worked with the I-1, it is a neat concept and seems to satisfy those who have purchased it for an everyday driver.

Happy Holidays

Ted.
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Old 12-24-2015, 11:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Green Machine View Post
Two Questions... any input would be appreciated

I already have the AGP Turbo kit installed on my car with their catch can installed how they showed.

1.) I want to get a catch can that looks more appealing under the engine bay and was wondering if you could suggest something along with how to route it.

2.) I'm going to be installing Holley aftermarket valve covers when I install my cam and headstuds. I currently have the oil return routed through the oil fill cap so after the new valve covers I can't do that anymore. Should I weld in a bung in the valve cover near the oil fill or should I (of find someone) to drill/tap my oil pan for the oil return... I'm not very comfortable on doing the oil pan myself.
The catch can provided with the AGP kit works well, Maybe you can paint it or have it powder coated to improve looks.

You can get a screw in cap and drill and tap a fitting in to it for the oil return.

Or you can weld on a fitting for oil return in the valve cover.

Either way you would want to return the oil to the valve cover.

I caution you that the Holley valve cover baffling is not as good as factory valve covers and you may experience more oil in your catch can.

Ted.
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Old 12-24-2015, 04:41 PM   #17
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So my goal is to get to 700rwhp. Its a daily driver and occasional track car. Twins are out of the question. Im looking of going single turbo or centri. What would be the most cost effective way to reach that goal? Im currently right under 500hp with nf cam, TSP full exhaust, cia. I do occasionally run a NO 150 shot which bumps to an area where I like the power. Im no guru on setting up FI kits so I do t even know where to start. TIA
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:56 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by TXMDE View Post
So my goal is to get to 700rwhp. Its a daily driver and occasional track car. Twins are out of the question. Im looking of going single turbo or centri. What would be the most cost effective way to reach that goal? Im currently right under 500hp with nf cam, TSP full exhaust, cia. I do occasionally run a NO 150 shot which bumps to an area where I like the power. Im no guru on setting up FI kits so I do t even know where to start. TIA
Vortech YSI
JRE Vortech upgrade kit
ID-850 injectors
LPE twin pump
ZR-1 Map sensor
TR7IX plugs

With your current mods will make 700 on pump and 800 on race gas with a different pulley.

I developed this combo back in 2010 and it is a solid combination we have used many times.

Ted.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:53 PM   #19
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Whats the diff between A&A,ECS,Paxton, Procharger, Vortech????
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:45 PM   #20
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Ted, I just had a maggie installed on my ss (ls3) and the only other mods I have are ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM, Vmax ported tb, stock maggie injectors and CAI intake. My ending numbers are 535 RWHP / 472 TQ (I think my tq is a bit on the low side). I want to know if you think my torque numbers should be higher or is it right were its supposed to be?
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:44 PM   #21
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I have a 2010 Camaro SS, whipple making 13lbs of boost, ls9 cam, cai, tsp long tubes and a custom tune. The issue I have is when I shift from 1-2 or 2-3 at WOT the car goes super rich as soon as I let of the clutch and mash the gas again (to the point it will fall on its face and sometimes completely shut down) . If I gradually go to WOT it does fine or if I down shift to 2 or 3 and hit it it's fine. I've been leaning towards belt slip issues for a while but others say it's my tune. What's you opinion?
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venom SS View Post
Whats the diff between A&A,ECS,Paxton, Procharger, Vortech????
They all used different Head units, mounting brackets, drive systems, charge pipes, intercoolers and included parts.

Paxton and Vortech are owned by the same company and share all the parts but the head unit name tag.

Ted.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:04 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13FastBlkSS View Post
Ted, I just had a maggie installed on my ss (ls3) and the only other mods I have are ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM, Vmax ported tb, stock maggie injectors and CAI intake. My ending numbers are 535 RWHP / 472 TQ (I think my tq is a bit on the low side). I want to know if you think my torque numbers should be higher or is it right were its supposed to be?
Congrats, the HP is strong for that set up.

The TQ is about right for a 3.8 pulley.

Ted.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VASTREETRACER View Post
I have a 2010 Camaro SS, whipple making 13lbs of boost, ls9 cam, cai, tsp long tubes and a custom tune. The issue I have is when I shift from 1-2 or 2-3 at WOT the car goes super rich as soon as I let of the clutch and mash the gas again (to the point it will fall on its face and sometimes completely shut down) . If I gradually go to WOT it does fine or if I down shift to 2 or 3 and hit it it's fine. I've been leaning towards belt slip issues for a while but others say it's my tune. What's you opinion?
I would need more info to make that determination.

I would also have to see your tune.

What injectors are you running?

What tune are you running?

Ted.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:36 AM   #25
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Ted,

Im running the 65lb injectors that came with the blower with a zl1 pump and adm fpcm. The tune is from a local shop who does mainly LS cars. I believe he uses HP tuners.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
I would need more info to make that determination.

I would also have to see your tune.

What injectors are you running?

What tune are you running?

Ted.
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:41 AM   #26
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Procharger P1 or D1

I see you offer both
What would you recommend with a L99 DD
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Old 12-29-2015, 08:56 AM   #27
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Hey Ted I've noticed that you have done lots of the slp tvs2300. I'm just wondering what maintenance is required on these blower. Also if I add a ported throttle body and a scoop will it affect the tune? Will I need to retune? It's a l99 613 rwhp and 560 rwtq 12 psi
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:22 PM   #28
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Stabilitrak issues

Ted,

I have an ECS 1500sl kit with a fore stage 1 kit. Currently, after going passed 3200RPM my stabilitrak goes on. I took it to the dealer and since my engine is modded they won't even mess with but did hook up the diagnostic machine (U2100) code came up. I can tell my power steering pump is going out so I just ordered the lingenfelter pump. I don't know if that will fix my issue, but can offer any suggestions on what can be causing this. Thanks in advance.
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