Are there 2 bleeding points per caliper?

[VTXrider]

Simple question. I need to bleed my brakes. Is there one or 2 bleeding points on my calipers. If there is only one I can do this with the car on the ground at my townhouse. If I need to jack my car up and take off the wheels, my HOA is a bit strict about working on cars and I'll need to do it somewhere else.

Also is the passenger rear the furthest brake line on this car?

[BLU DUCE]

Yes there are 2 bleeding points. And yes the rear passenger side is the farthest point away.

[Nessal]

Bleed the clutch first.

[VTXrider]

Where do I bleed the clutch from?

[Olddudesrule]

Use the "search" feature on the forum and you will find several great threads with detailed pics on how to do it (clutch and brake bleed). Needless to say, you will have to have the car on jack stands at least to get under and do both, but especially the clutch bleed. It can be a pain in the ass, but is very doable.

[Bulldog3071]

Bleed the clutch and put on a separate clutch resivor, bleeding the clutch can be a pain as it's difficult to see but once you figure it out its pretty simple. Separate clutch resivor kits are available and are very inexpensive. Good luck and take your time.

[KaBoom1701]

Right Rear
Left Front
Left Rear
Right Front

Always inner bleeder first then outer bleeder.

Buy a Motive Brake Bleeder to make this whole operation much easier.

Here's the full tech doc.




Service Information Home Publications Number Search New Bulletins Bulletin Search Feedback Help
Related Documents Global Labor Time Guide: Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding

2012 Chevrolet Camaro | Camaro VIN F Service Manual | Brakes | Hydraulic Brakes | Repair Instructions | Document ID: 2131922
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Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Warning: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Warning.

Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Caution.

 1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
 2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3–5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
 3. If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3–3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3–3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
 4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

 5. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inboard (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
 6. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
 7. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
 8. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
 9. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
11. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8–10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
12. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
13. With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely – after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit – install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
14. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
15. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
16. With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
17. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
18. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
19. With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve, or valves (fixed caliper), tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit, inner (fixed caliper), bleeder valve.
20. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7–11.
21. For fixed caliper models, repeat steps 5–11 for the outboard bleeder valve.
22. After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves, or 8 bleeder valves (fixed caliper), are properly tightened.
23. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
24. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
25. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
25.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
25.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
26. Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.

[Nessal]

I remember that the master cylinder was on the driver's side so that would mean passanger rear, driver rear, passanger front, driver front in that order instead of the above sequence but others may want to confirm.

Also, owning the motive bleeder, I would not use it with the fluid inside. First, I have read accounts on other forums where essentially a leak caused brake fluid to spray everywhere. Imagine that happening. I would immediately stop everything that I'm doing and wash the car on the spot. Second, you can never get the inside completely clean. I have not used mine for a long time. There are much better options out there.

I have used the following tool for all my cars. It's a much safer method and only cost $10. You can buy a longer clear hose at home depot if you need.


http://www.amazon.com/636-Distributi.../dp/B0051SERD2

[flyer08]

Doing upgraded lines right now. Two each per caliper. You will need to remove the wheels. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes once the wheels are off so you can do entire process in 30min or less with two people.

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by Nessal

I remember that the master cylinder was on the driver's side so that would mean passanger rear, driver rear, passanger front, driver front in that order instead of the above sequence but others may want to confirm.

Also, owning the motive bleeder, I would not use it with the fluid inside. First, I have read accounts on other forums where essentially a leak caused brake fluid to spray everywhere. Imagine that happening. I would immediately stop everything that I'm doing and wash the car on the spot. Second, you can never get the inside completely clean. I have not used mine for a long time. There are much better options out there.

I have used the following tool for all my cars. It's a much safer method and only cost $10. You can buy a longer clear hose at home depot if you need.


http://www.amazon.com/636-Distributi.../dp/B0051SERD2

Full of mis info .....but if you want to ague with GM techs then knock your self out. lol

[LimaCharlie]

Originally Posted by Nessal

I remember that the master cylinder was on the driver's side so that would mean passanger rear, driver rear, passanger front, driver front in that order instead of the above sequence but others may want to confirm.

I've bled my brakes many times and I use the sequence that KaBoom1701 mentioned. Your sequence would seem correct but I think the brake line lengths all vary, regardless of where the actual caliper is located.

[JCunningham]

has nothing to do with where the master is. Its how its plumbed. Follow the GM procedure.