Need some help from suspension/alignment experts! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

SS Performance · 05-05-2018, 06:53 PM

So I'll start at the beginning.

I installed the Ground Control Caster/Camber plates. (I'l give a over view of the install in a different thread)

In order to install them the struts must be removed (duh!).

I got everything reinstalled and set the camber and toe. Took the car for a drive and checked the camber again. Drivers side camber was off. I thought maybe I had made a mistake so I reset the drivers side. Torqued everything down and loaded the car on the trailer.

Got to the track took her out for the warm-up laps and heard a clunk from the front drivers side.

Went back to the pits checked the camber and it was off again!

The only thing I can think of is the spindle is slipping on the strut. So I reset it and torgue the bolts AGAIN!

Go back out still clunking!

So I went home (only about 25 miles) picked up grade 8 bolts 5/8" (same size as M16). Installed them and torqued them to spec, 150 flbs. Took a drive same ####### clunk! Went in retorqued to 200 flbs. Drove still clunking

I'm at a loss as what to do to figure out what is going on. Any advise/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Craig

Synner · 05-06-2018, 09:39 AM

On my camber plates with coilovers the top nut liked to loosen without a crap ton of loctite. Could also be a clearance issue or sway bar end link. Don't have any experience with GC to know if it's a design issue.

SS Performance · 05-06-2018, 10:11 AM

I'll check the top nut. I don't see the end link causing the camber to change.

Synner · 05-06-2018, 12:18 PM

I meant for the clunk. Only way to have the camber change is loosening at the top nut, adjustment screws, or lower strut bolts. What alignment numbers are you running when it's at the neutral point and track setting point? Stock wheels/tires?

SS Performance · 05-06-2018, 12:38 PM

Stock wheels (1LE) 285/35X20 on the track Nitto NT01's -2.9 camber. Haven't done the street settings yet. I was focused on getting ready for the track.

Synner · 05-06-2018, 01:59 PM

Trying to figure out how much camber is from the plate and how much is static from the strut. Is the plate maxed out? Their website doesn't say how much gain you get. Have you checked wheel well and tire for signs of rubbing? It's possible the upper mount isn't stable and staying in place or the top nut as mentioned already.

SS Performance · 05-06-2018, 08:06 PM

Plate isn't maxed out. Their site is not very informative. One of my complaints with them.

I disassembled the drivers side (the one clunking) today. Didn't see any problem with the end link. Since I over torqued the bolts I'm going to get new ones and torque to spec when I reassemble.

Synner · 05-07-2018, 01:45 PM

I would suggest setting your car to -1 or -1.2 (with the plate neutral) then max the plate and set toe. The more you get from the strut the easier it is to make contact. Blue loctite every single bolt to include the sway end link. Check your spring, perch, tire, and wheel well for contact. That should do it.

Otherwise there is slop in the plate and I'd be contacting the manufacturer. I do the above with my Pedders plates and have -3.2, perfect tire wear based upon temps but your setup may make the optimal number different. I will rub the inner fender well a bit under full lock when I had 20's, 19's so far I haven't seen any. Granted I have a coilover so spring and perch clearance will be different for you.

05-05-2018, 06:53 PM	#1
SS Performance Drives: 02 Camaro B4C Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Cape May County NJ Posts: 749	Need some help from suspension/alignment experts! So I'll start at the beginning. I installed the Ground Control Caster/Camber plates. (I'l give a over view of the install in a different thread) In order to install them the struts must be removed (duh!). I got everything reinstalled and set the camber and toe. Took the car for a drive and checked the camber again. Drivers side camber was off. I thought maybe I had made a mistake so I reset the drivers side. Torqued everything down and loaded the car on the trailer. Got to the track took her out for the warm-up laps and heard a clunk from the front drivers side. Went back to the pits checked the camber and it was off again! The only thing I can think of is the spindle is slipping on the strut. So I reset it and torgue the bolts AGAIN! Go back out still clunking! So I went home (only about 25 miles) picked up grade 8 bolts 5/8" (same size as M16). Installed them and torqued them to spec, 150 flbs. Took a drive same ####### clunk! Went in retorqued to 200 flbs. Drove still clunking I'm at a loss as what to do to figure out what is going on. Any advise/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Craig __________________ A man's garage is his castle 1969 Camaro SS 1970 Camaro SS 2002 Camaro B4C 2014 Camaro SS Dedicated Track Car 2015 Camaro 1SS 1LE 2008 HHR SS 1996 Silverado Crew Cab Long Bed Dual Rear Wheel

05-06-2018, 10:11 AM	#3
SS Performance Drives: 02 Camaro B4C Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Cape May County NJ Posts: 749	I'll check the top nut. I don't see the end link causing the camber to change. __________________ A man's garage is his castle 1969 Camaro SS 1970 Camaro SS 2002 Camaro B4C 2014 Camaro SS Dedicated Track Car 2015 Camaro 1SS 1LE 2008 HHR SS 1996 Silverado Crew Cab Long Bed Dual Rear Wheel

05-06-2018, 12:38 PM	#5
SS Performance Drives: 02 Camaro B4C Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Cape May County NJ Posts: 749	Stock wheels (1LE) 285/35X20 on the track Nitto NT01's -2.9 camber. Haven't done the street settings yet. I was focused on getting ready for the track. __________________ A man's garage is his castle 1969 Camaro SS 1970 Camaro SS 2002 Camaro B4C 2014 Camaro SS Dedicated Track Car 2015 Camaro 1SS 1LE 2008 HHR SS 1996 Silverado Crew Cab Long Bed Dual Rear Wheel

05-06-2018, 08:06 PM	#7
SS Performance Drives: 02 Camaro B4C Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Cape May County NJ Posts: 749	Plate isn't maxed out. Their site is not very informative. One of my complaints with them. I disassembled the drivers side (the one clunking) today. Didn't see any problem with the end link. Since I over torqued the bolts I'm going to get new ones and torque to spec when I reassemble. __________________ A man's garage is his castle 1969 Camaro SS 1970 Camaro SS 2002 Camaro B4C 2014 Camaro SS Dedicated Track Car 2015 Camaro 1SS 1LE 2008 HHR SS 1996 Silverado Crew Cab Long Bed Dual Rear Wheel

05-06-2018, 09:39 AM	#2
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	On my camber plates with coilovers the top nut liked to loosen without a crap ton of loctite. Could also be a clearance issue or sway bar end link. Don't have any experience with GC to know if it's a design issue.

05-06-2018, 12:18 PM	#4
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	I meant for the clunk. Only way to have the camber change is loosening at the top nut, adjustment screws, or lower strut bolts. What alignment numbers are you running when it's at the neutral point and track setting point? Stock wheels/tires?

05-06-2018, 01:59 PM	#6
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	Trying to figure out how much camber is from the plate and how much is static from the strut. Is the plate maxed out? Their website doesn't say how much gain you get. Have you checked wheel well and tire for signs of rubbing? It's possible the upper mount isn't stable and staying in place or the top nut as mentioned already.

05-07-2018, 01:45 PM	#8
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	I would suggest setting your car to -1 or -1.2 (with the plate neutral) then max the plate and set toe. The more you get from the strut the easier it is to make contact. Blue loctite every single bolt to include the sway end link. Check your spring, perch, tire, and wheel well for contact. That should do it. Otherwise there is slop in the plate and I'd be contacting the manufacturer. I do the above with my Pedders plates and have -3.2, perfect tire wear based upon temps but your setup may make the optimal number different. I will rub the inner fender well a bit under full lock when I had 20's, 19's so far I haven't seen any. Granted I have a coilover so spring and perch clearance will be different for you.