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Old 01-01-2016, 12:14 PM   #85
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I just did the cooler delete on my 2012. I took it for a spin this AM and the coolant temp got to around 250. I was very close to the house to I turned around and shut her down. I did not pop open the radiator cap but did check my overflow tank and it was very low. Do you think that this was the culprit for the high coolant temps? Oil temps were all good but those high coolant temps have me very concerned.
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:22 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by TXM62SS View Post
I just did the cooler delete on my 2012. I took it for a spin this AM and the coolant temp got to around 250. I was very close to the house to I turned around and shut her down. I did not pop open the radiator cap but did check my overflow tank and it was very low. Do you think that this was the culprit for the high coolant temps? Oil temps were all good but those high coolant temps have me very concerned.
Possibly some trapped air in the system, let it cool and check the radiator.
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:18 PM   #87
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That has nothing to do with oil temps, bleed your coolant system. If it was an oil temp issue causing it to run hot, oil would be 30-50F hotter than coolant.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:44 PM   #88
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Paul and Unreal....thanks for the help gents. I did not burp the car as well as I should have the first time. This time, I jacked the car high on some Race Ramps and let it idle for a while and added some coolant to the overflow tank as well. Coolant temps got to about 220 initially and then dropped and never went passed 205. It eventually settled at about 190. After idling for about 20 to 25 minutes the oil temp gauge still never got to 200 deg. I am going to do a little write up thread on my experience doing this for the newbs like myself that have never done something like this. Thanks again for the help.
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Old 03-18-2017, 11:01 AM   #89
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anyone know what size the factory coolant adapter is on the block, so I can plug it off? I'm trying to remove it on my C6Z and it isn't the easiest to get to.
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Old 03-18-2017, 02:33 PM   #90
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12561663 part number summit racing is what I ordered but did not installed yet.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:49 PM   #91
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12561663 part number summit racing is what I ordered but did not installed yet.
Thanks. I mean what size socket is needed to remove the coolant outlet on the block that the hose plugs into before being able to install the plug.
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Old 06-21-2018, 01:17 PM   #92
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36 mm socket.
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Old 11-02-2023, 12:40 AM   #93
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really old theme but looks like I have oil cooler leak too. It's internal leak i guess.

with the stock oil cooler when I run car hard oil temp rises upto 250F and coolant upto 230F.

What troubles can I expect after removing this oil cooler?

i found delete kit, is it enough to disable it ? here is the link https://www.improvedracing.com/2010-...elete-kit.html
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Old 11-02-2023, 06:09 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by PlymouthBarracuda View Post
really old theme but looks like I have oil cooler leak too. It's internal leak i guess.

with the stock oil cooler when I run car hard oil temp rises upto 250F and coolant upto 230F.

What troubles can I expect after removing this oil cooler?

i found delete kit, is it enough to disable it ? here is the link https://www.improvedracing.com/2010-...elete-kit.html
That kit will work for a 2010-2011 V8. There's a different kit you need for a 2012-2015 that comes with a rubber hose cap and worm clamp instead of the upper hose. Otherwise, it's the same requirements.

If you order that kit, make sure to customize it and get the complete kit with the oil bypass cover/gasket/bolts too, not just the plug and radiator hose. Or you'll be getting them separately later. Because you'll need that bypass cover kit as well to get it all done.

Then, since you'll drain all your coolant and be changing oil, you might as well do a regular oil/filter change and do a coolant flush (if needed) and change out your engine coolant.

Everything will be fresh as a daisy and ready to roll after that.

Just try to get the front end as high as possible (a set of race ramps should do since that's what I used) when refilling the coolant system. You need to burp out as much air as possible.
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Old 11-02-2023, 12:04 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by el ess A View Post
That kit will work for a 2010-2011 V8. There's a different kit you need for a 2012-2015 that comes with a rubber hose cap and worm clamp instead of the upper hose. Otherwise, it's the same requirements.

If you order that kit, make sure to customize it and get the complete kit with the oil bypass cover/gasket/bolts too, not just the plug and radiator hose. Or you'll be getting them separately later. Because you'll need that bypass cover kit as well to get it all done.

Then, since you'll drain all your coolant and be changing oil, you might as well do a regular oil/filter change and do a coolant flush (if needed) and change out your engine coolant.

Everything will be fresh as a daisy and ready to roll after that.

Just try to get the front end as high as possible (a set of race ramps should do since that's what I used) when refilling the coolant system. You need to burp out as much air as possible.
thanks !!!

can i just replace the radiator upper hose to the straight one, drain the coolant from oil cooler and leave everything as is ?
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Old 11-02-2023, 05:21 PM   #96
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thanks !!!

can i just replace the radiator upper hose to the straight one, drain the coolant from oil cooler and leave everything as is ?
I wouldn’t think so because you would only be removing one end of the loop and coolant would go out to the air. be careful remove the large plug on the side of the block there was an issue with galling of the threads. I had to buy a tap and retap the large plug on the block because of this.
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