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Old 08-19-2019, 01:11 PM   #15
Elite Engineering

 
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Drives: 2010 Camaro
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What you most likely have is the PCV fixed orifice barb is clogged. It is located at the rear of the passenger side valve cover on the LLT. Any with the black plastic valve covers need to do the "drill mod". Any with the cast aluminum valve covers GM did the revision to correct the orifice size already so this is only on the LLT and first years of the LFX. Disconnect the black hard plastic fitting and it will expose the barb. Grasp the bottom with a pliers and twist as you pull straight up. It will look like this:






Drill the top hole to 1/8" and 2 bottom holes to 5/64" each. Clean and press securely back into the valve cover and your good to go.


IF there is a seal leak, all they described is only a $1200 job max, and most is to remove trans to access rear seal. And that rarely fails on these engines.


Make SURE you only use a FULL synthetic oil, and not to thin. We use 5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in these engines. A bottle of Lucas Oil leak fix will swell most seals and stop minor leaks as well.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:19 PM   #16
G8One2
 
Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Metro Detroit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
What you most likely have is the PCV fixed orifice barb is clogged. It is located at the rear of the passenger side valve cover on the LLT. Any with the black plastic valve covers need to do the "drill mod". Any with the cast aluminum valve covers GM did the revision to correct the orifice size already so this is only on the LLT and first years of the LFX. Disconnect the black hard plastic fitting and it will expose the barb. Grasp the bottom with a pliers and twist as you pull straight up. It will look like this:






Drill the top hole to 1/8" and 2 bottom holes to 5/64" each. Clean and press securely back into the valve cover and your good to go.


IF there is a seal leak, all they described is only a $1200 job max, and most is to remove trans to access rear seal. And that rarely fails on these engines.


Make SURE you only use a FULL synthetic oil, and not to thin. We use 5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in these engines. A bottle of Lucas Oil leak fix will swell most seals and stop minor leaks as well.

PCV Issue. What he said ^^^^^^
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:53 PM   #17
InfernoMan2011
 
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange 1LT
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It WAS PCV!

Thanks for all the replies! Been busy with work and hadn't been able to make it back around to this thread to update.

I had never done the PCV Drill mod before now because I was probably afraid of creating some other potential issue while the car was still my daily driver. Since doing the drill mod (top hole 7/64, two bottom holes at 5/64) and re-installing, I've run the car pretty hard a few times in sport mode and haven't seen ANY fluids accumulating, and no oil on the garage floor. The other thing to note is that my Rx Oil breather cap had been pretty oily before. I've wiped it down good and since drilling the PCV haven't seen any more oil appear on the breather. So fingers crossed, I don't think I have ANY leak coming from any of the engine seals. I did noticed it was suggested to drill the top hole to 1/8. Should 7/64 be good, or should a I pull the valve again and drill the top out to 1/8? Everything else I'd read on the forum said the top should be 7/64. Thanks again for all the information! I'm excited to get back to working on this car again!

Here's what my PCV looked like. I've always run Mobil One 5W-30 since my first oil change.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Zb2PBf4rqKEgYiR9

Last edited by InfernoMan2011; 08-29-2019 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Adding Pic of my dirty PCV
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