2015 V6 3.6 How to replace a Clutch, flywheel and throw-out bearing

[Jokerman2k]

Sorry I didn't take any pictures while I did this but I hope the information below helps. First don't following any videos on replacing the clutch on You Tube because they are all for V8's and are way different. When I climbed under the car for the first time I didn't see anything that looked like a V8 from the videos here. I like many of you love V8's (even own a 79 Vet with one), but I bought a V6 because if offered over 300hp and 30mpg, and it's my daily driver.

The process.

1. Removing the mufflers - Remove the cover plate that blocks the removal of the mufflers. Just remove the mufflers from the connections right behind the cats that come down from the manifold. (V8's show removing these manifolds from the block side - not necessary for V6). The tough part is the rubber mounts. Just cover them with lube for both easier removal and installation after.

2. Removing the drive shaft - This was my first part that gave me trouble. Only remove one set of bolts from each end. You have to really pry these off so don't be afraid to use some muscle. You will need to unbolt the center joint mount first. You have to pull back a little removing them as there is a small pin in the ends it needs to get past.

3. Trans removal - This was an eye opener for sure. Easy to get to, much more so then the videos I watched for the V8s. First unplug things and put them out of the way. Making sure when you put it back together you have the same wires on each side and don't pinch anything. Next remove the line going to the drive side clutch throw out. There is a little pinch clip that you can push out, then pull the end out and make sure to cap it. It will drip everywhere and bug you while doing the rest of the work. Make sure to get (11) bolts I missed one at the very very top and it was one that will never see home again when I put it back together (11 was overkill I can live with just 10). Also take out one of the starter bolts (not counted in the original 11) out, and even one of the (11) faces the opposite direction then the others. Oh, there is one of these bell housing bolts at the top of the passenger side that is under some tubing. I had to make it except a socket. I tried to remove the tubing in the way but didn't know what would spill out so I stop that removal. Once you get it out, it goes back in easier.

Purchased a used floor type trans jack (the cheap ones from Harbor Freight work fine). I found one online for $50. Strap it up to the trans.

Note: Before removing the trans you have to remove the stick shift. Now here's the part that pissed me off. From every video I looked at it showed just twisting and pulling up to remove the shaft knob (umm no), that will make matters so bad (I know I did try). The knob has a silver ring on it, that needs to be twist counter-clockwise to come off and then you will find a screw to remove on the passenger side. Still DON"T try and just pull this out from under the car. Remove the two arms that hold the shaft housing to the trans (also remove the four bolts (10mm) from inside the car for the shifter mounts). These two arms have some easy to flip up lock pins on them. First remove the shiftier end pin from the shiftier lever going to the trans (it also has an easy to remove pin). Remove both the one at the trans end and shiftier lever end. This process is easy then trying to pull the shift downward under the car (it won't work, you'll just destroy it I know from experince). This is much easier to get it out of the way and put back in without what I had to do. Once you get it out look at the pain you would have been in trying to take it apart under the car.

After the trans bell housing bolts are out pry it a part from an open slot on the bottom of the housing (remember (11)bolts). It will take some muscle and jiggling the trans.

After you have it out it's pretty straight forward, except the flywheel bolts are actually Allen head screws not bolts as many of us have seen before.

That's it, just put back the same way. You will see putting it back together goes much quicker. Use lock tight everywhere you can and follow specs on tightening bolts (find online). I found the complete kit (clutch, flywheel and throw out bearing on RockAuto for $406). Needed it bad so I paid $42 shipping for next day.

Again sorry if I couldn't provide pics but I hope some of this helps someone doing a clutch on a 2015 V6 3.6 clutch, flywheel and throw out.

[Jokerman2k]

UPDATE: Sometimes calling all the Chevy dealers Service Depts in the area (4) to get an answer and they all got it wrong. Even the ones that say "I've been doing this for 30yrs" were still wrong. The Brake and Clutch fluid share the same reservoir. They all said they had separate ones. Man you have to read this before doing any clutch work or you could get hung up on poor advice.

[CRO8TIA]

The correct term for those "screws" is, socket head cap bolts, just because a bolt doesn't have a hex head, does not mean it isn't a bolt. Is this the 1st clutch replacement you've done ? Did you really leave a bell housing bolt out ? like really ?

[Jokerman2k]

Yes, I left it out. 11 is over kill. Thanks for the correction on the bolt type. I'm sure it will be helpful to those looking for assistance with this problem.

[bubbagumper6]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I'm getting ready to do this same replacement.

Did you reuse the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? The manual says they are one time use only and should be replaced but I'm having issues finding the correct part numbers.

Thanks

Edit: Think I found the flywheel bolt OEM part number: 11588884. Still looking for pressure plate bolt p/n.

[cawengr]

Just had my clutch replaced on my 2011 CTS 3.6, the flywheel bolt part number is correct, the pressure plate bolt is 11570903.
Flywheel bolt is 10 mm x 1.0 mm x 23 mm Socket Head Cap Screw 8 mm Socket 10.9 grade
Pressure Plate Bolt is 8 mm x 1.2 mm X 20 mm Hex Head Bolt with integrated washer head 10 mm Hex Head 10.9 grade

[zulater]

Just did my kids clutch a couple weekends ago and got it bled this week and have a few observations.

1. I loosened, but in the end I don't believe you need to remove any starter bolts.
2. We also only removed the rear driveshaft bolts, once off you can undo the center bearing and get the shaft off the rear differential. Only did the standard hex heads not the torx bolts. We then just pulled the rear half of the shaft off and moved it out of the way.
3. We didn't take the exhaust all the way out either. Left the rear most muffler hangers. Leaves less room to work around but since they are a pain to do we just left it hanging behind the trans.
4. Best way to get at all the bellhousing bolts seems to be laying with your feet towards the front of the car and you can bear hug the trans to get to the bolts and break free or torque. Yes all 11

The last advice I have here is we had a hell of a time getting it to bleed. I felt like a failure and took it to a shop, they couldn't either. Basically with these cars getting older don't overlook easy things. We got it back and before tearing the trans out (I thought it was the throwout hydraulic slave giving issues) we started with the cheapest thing. We replaced the low pressure hose from the reservoir to the master and that fixed all our issues. The car would bleed, and go into reverse once or twice, then get more spongy and not let you into reverse after manipulating the clutch pedal a few times. So I believe it was sucking in air but not really pushing any fluid out from the old brittle hose.

I do have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to. The chilton manual references an o-ring (part 3 in attached image) between the clutch slave and the transmission itself. I didn't notice one when disassembling and can't find one to purchase online anywhere. This was my fear when we were having trouble getting it to bleed that there was supposed to be an o-ring that would also serve as a pseudo shim but since I can't find a place to purchase one I assume this is not a thing and the chilton manual has it wrong. Anyone have any ideas on that?

While I'm here anyone actually sell a shift knob for these AY6 shifters? All I can seem to find are crappy stick on things that go over the stock shifter.

Hope this helps the next person looking at doing this.