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Old 09-26-2019, 11:37 AM   #15
canadian ss
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Its supposed to fit and apparently they are supposed to work on Chrysler engines as well.

GM sells a universal set to basically fit any engine as well:https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sour...69602199196826

OR heres another version for V6 engine:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/KENT-MOORE-T...QAAOSwQtxdB6gT

Last edited by canadian ss; 09-26-2019 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 10-07-2019, 02:47 PM   #16
petercop
 
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Hello Again,

I am assembling the tools I need to pull the transmission from the bottom and the motor from the top. I have a few questions if you have a moment to answer.

1. I purchased the GM shop manuals. They stress to not let the motor mounts be subjected to any bending. When I am pulling the transmission from the bottom, do I need to brace the motor in a certain way that I can then lower the car without the trans supporting the back of the motor to pull the motor out of the top?

2. The manual refers to a tool J-38836 to install the new pilot bearing. Is that necessary or can I just install it with the clutch alignment tool that comes with my clutch set? Is it possible to push it in too far?

3. I have read that it is difficult to remove and then reinstall all the bell housing bolts. Is there any tricks to getting all the bolts in?

4. Can I resurface my flywheel or does it need to be replaced due to balance issues?

5. Do the flywheel and presure plate bolts gets replaced or can they be reused. Does everything get loc-tite?

Thanks in advance - pccfb
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Old Today, 10:34 AM   #17
canadian ss
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Old Today, 12:27 PM   #18
petercop
 
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Thanks again.


I will replace both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts as I did that on my 1996 Z28 LT1 clutch.

Reading the shop manual, a lot of hardware gets replaced and some miscellaneous pieces also.

For example, on the high pressure fuel pump, they tell you to discard the gasket, o-ring, the bolts and the high pressure line from the pump to the left fuel rail. I understand why I should replace the o-ring (leak oil), but would the gasket and bolts really matter? They did not seem that tight when I removed them.

The high pressure fuel line is stainless steel and it seems perfect. The fittings did not seem that tight but GM has a torque spec for that. GM says discard and replace. It is a $60.00 part.

GM tells you to discard the caliper bolts for the brake brackets. I have never changed caliper bracket bolts when I have done brakes.

What is your opinion on all the hardware and miscellaneous items that GM tells you to discard and replace?

Thanks again.
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Old Today, 01:15 PM   #19
canadian ss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petercop View Post
Thanks again.


I will replace both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts as I did that on my 1996 Z28 LT1 clutch.

Reading the shop manual, a lot of hardware gets replaced and some miscellaneous pieces also.

For example, on the high pressure fuel pump, they tell you to discard the gasket, o-ring, the bolts and the high pressure line from the pump to the left fuel rail. I understand why I should replace the o-ring (leak oil), but would the gasket and bolts really matter? They did not seem that tight when I removed them.

The high pressure fuel line is stainless steel and it seems perfect. The fittings did not seem that tight but GM has a torque spec for that. GM says discard and replace. It is a $60.00 part.

GM tells you to discard the caliper bolts for the brake brackets. I have never changed caliper bracket bolts when I have done brakes.

What is your opinion on all the hardware and miscellaneous items that GM tells you to discard and replace?

Thanks again.
O-rings and gaskets I would change for sure.

Replacing the line....only if its pitting or corroding on the inside.

Bolts....especially if they are torque to yield or very rusty. Other than that, no.

GM tells us to replace many things to cover their asses or to make a buck on parts.

GM says DEX-COOl is good for 155,000 miles. Who waits that long to change it out????
They will say to do a brake fluid flush every time you do a brake job. Nobody does.
GM says to use OPTIKLEEN for wiper fluid....again, yea right.

I''ve done many intake gaskets and used the same bolts.
I've done many headgaskets and reused hardware other than the head bolts (TTY).
I've reused fuel pump o-rings and ignition wires.

Many things are RECOMMENDED to replace for worry free driving but have seen GM tell us to throw away bolts as well.

If its required to do so as per warranty or TSB or recall, then I would do it as well. Till then, I dont see too much reason to.

I can tell you that most dealership techs have MANY new bolts and items stashed away in their tool boxes or at home that werent put on when GM recommended it.

Rule of thumb, if it comes with the part or kit you're replacing, then discard old bolts.
If you want peace of mind, replace all the bolts and parts.
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Old Today, 01:22 PM   #20
gtstorey
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petercop View Post
Thanks again.

GM tells you to discard the caliper bolts for the brake brackets. I have never changed caliper bracket bolts when I have done brakes.
There isn't a consensus on brake caliper bolts. My thoughts are that they aren't really Torque to Yield bolts that must be replaced, most likely the GM replacement recommendation is based more on the factory thread lock compound (or lawyers). I've had mine off multiple times and didn't replace, but I did replace then when I switched to CTSV calipers recently. I expect to be flamed after saying all this.
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