1le battery ground question

[1leWorksforMe]

Hey guys,

I'm attempting to do an sub/amp install and ran into a mishap. I loosened the ground battery bolt to see how large it was to determine my ring terminal loop size. I tightened it back down and went to check if anything changed. Turned on the key in acc mode and electronics were fine. Went to turn it over and the car did not start and the bolt I previously tightened down sparked. Tightened it back down more and sure enough it started. What I'm wondering is how tight does that bolt need to be? I was using a 3/8 to tighten it down so obviously not much torque. The problem is the bolt keeps turning even though it doesn't look like it has anymore to go. I don't want to over torque this thing so am I good to go (now that it starts) or should there be a certain torque spec? Pic below of bolt. And yes, I should have disconnected the negative terminal first.

[CreeperRS]

You probably already hit the limit on that bolt, if it starts then you're probably ok. I don't know the actual torque specs, but why would you disconnect that bolt instead of the nut on the negative terminal?. It's a 10mm nut.

[1leWorksforMe]

Originally Posted by CreeperRS

You probably already hit the limit on that bolt, if it starts then you're probably ok. I don't know the actual torque specs, but why would you disconnect that bolt instead of the nut on the negative terminal?. It's a 10mm nut.

Figured it was an easy place to run my ground wire for the sub and I've seen others do this as well?

[CreeperRS]

In my old 2010 SS, I originally grounded my amps to the battery ground also. Only to end up with alternator whine. I ended using one of the ground studs that are located next to the rear speakers, I had to file away 1/4 in of paint surrounding the studs.

[1leWorksforMe]

Originally Posted by CreeperRS

In my old 2010 SS, I originally grounded my amps to the battery ground also. Only to end up with alternator whine. I ended using one of the ground studs that are located next to the rear speakers, I had to file away 1/4 in of paint surrounding the studs.

Yeah, I think I'm going to go that route. I'm just wondering if I did any damage with the bolt sparking like that.

[CreeperRS]

Probably not, it's common to spark the negative when ever your reconnecting your battery. Make sure everything works.

[1leWorksforMe]

Everything works, just a tad concerned whether the bolt has full connection or not.

[CreeperRS]

As long as you can't loosen it up by hand and the car starts you should be ok. I tried looking for the torque specs but can't seem to find any info.

[1leWorksforMe]

Can someone with a 1le please take a picture under the car in the rear where the ground bolt goes through the chassis? Here is a pick of what I am talking about.

[1leWorksforMe]

[vinman]

Does the 1LE have a different grounding bolt location than the rest of the 5th gens?

[1leWorksforMe]

Originally Posted by vinman

Does the 1LE have a different grounding bolt location than the rest of the 5th gens?

I believe the SS's do as well, dunno about the v6 models.

[1leWorksforMe]

[BrianKC]

I have been having issues similar to this recently with my 2010 SS (very slow starts or sometimes turning the key and everything dies). I have the Braille 21 lb battery so everyone (including me) thought it was just the battery not having enough juice to turn it over all the time. Just got stranded at work and had a friend come out to help and we just accidentally brushed that bolt and like you, it sparked like crazy. Tightened him down really well and it seemed to start better than usual after that. Debating about removing that bolt, cleaning everything, scraping off the rust and make that connection really good and then crank that thing in there with a breaker bar. Curious to see if you ever found a resolution or had any further issues.