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03-28-2021, 07:36 PM
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#1 |
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Valkyrie14
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Posts: 962
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Replace 1,2 or all 4 hubs?
My drivers side bearings are starting to growl. The wheel has a little play, but the noise is noticeable. I think I am catching this early. All 3 other bearings seem good, no play, no noise.
I seem some sellers sell front hubs and rear hubs as a set. And others sell all 4 together. I’m looking at SKF, which I understand is what Chevy put on at the factory. Replace the one that needs it, or both front, or all 4? Any logic to these choices?
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2014 SS LS3/LSA Supercharger, 10% Super Damper, 2.55 upper, AGP Dual Pump, ID 1050 injectors, Pegasus solid rear cradle bushings, LT Headers, Roto-Fab CAI, Elite E2 catch can, E85 corn fed, 160 Thermostat, Monster Twin Disk, MGW Short Throw shifter, Tick Clutch Master Cylinder, HP Tuners, JL Audio system.
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03-28-2021, 08:59 PM
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#2 |
 Drives: Chevy Silverado Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Helena, MT
Posts: 40
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Id only do the thats needed, unless tou have other stuff in those areas to do. Like if you need new pads/rotors, front shocks etc, then Id say do both sides.
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03-28-2021, 10:16 PM
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#3 |
           Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trenton, Michigan
Posts: 7,047
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How many miles on the car ?
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03-28-2021, 10:25 PM
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#4 | |
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Valkyrie14
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Posts: 962
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Quote:
I have some pad left. The rotors are okay, but the valley in between where the hub is and the face where the pad touches is rusty. Works fine but doesn’t look great. When I do pads I am probably going to do rotors all around. Shocks are good, at least no sign of losing rebound. Just replaced drivers side tie rod.
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2014 SS LS3/LSA Supercharger, 10% Super Damper, 2.55 upper, AGP Dual Pump, ID 1050 injectors, Pegasus solid rear cradle bushings, LT Headers, Roto-Fab CAI, Elite E2 catch can, E85 corn fed, 160 Thermostat, Monster Twin Disk, MGW Short Throw shifter, Tick Clutch Master Cylinder, HP Tuners, JL Audio system.
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03-29-2021, 12:19 AM
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#5 |
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Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trenton, Michigan
Posts: 7,047
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I'd replace both front.
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03-29-2021, 06:50 AM
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#6 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,925
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Many times if one is making noise the other will go soon. No reason to replace them both but you could buy the pair save a few bucks and throw the 2nd on the shelf to be ready when you need to replace it.
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Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane
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03-29-2021, 07:22 AM
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#7 |
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Valkyrie14
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Posts: 962
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Thanks dudes, I was leaning that way. I guess I needed a push.
__________________
2014 SS LS3/LSA Supercharger, 10% Super Damper, 2.55 upper, AGP Dual Pump, ID 1050 injectors, Pegasus solid rear cradle bushings, LT Headers, Roto-Fab CAI, Elite E2 catch can, E85 corn fed, 160 Thermostat, Monster Twin Disk, MGW Short Throw shifter, Tick Clutch Master Cylinder, HP Tuners, JL Audio system.
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