The "WildZL1" Build Journey

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Thanks for the reply. I had a similar misfire situation and still do to some extent. I changed my #4 plug and it helped a ton but I think I need to tighten my gap. I'm currently at .039" @ 14.5 psi boost. I bet if I tighten them up like you did, it'll help.
No issues with the 10% coil dwell?

Gap is working great, no issues at all with adding coil dwell time.Here is a pic of the changes I made.

[FasNuf]

Awesome! Thanks Vic

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Awesome! Thanks Vic

No Problem anytime!

[brick59]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Thanks for the reply. I had a similar misfire situation and still do to some extent. I changed my #4 plug and it helped a ton but I think I need to tighten my gap. I'm currently at .039" @ 14.5 psi boost. I bet if I tighten them up like you did, it'll help.
No issues with the 10% coil dwell?

As your boost go's up your gap needs to come down I'm at 14 to 15 psi and run mine at .030 with no misfires my tuner said I could go down to .028 to .026 if it starts to misfire but so far no problem's. I think I read somewhere in ttshovel's build thread he's down to to .018 to .020 gap with high 20s to low 30s boost. Hope this helps you guys.

[Vicster]

I finally finished every thing I want to do to my car, I may have to repaint some items with Plasti-Dip as it bubbled on me. All I have to do now is a dyno-tune. I will try to schedule it, do not know if I can get it done with the (Moron Virus) lock down going on.
Now it just needs a good bath!

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by Vicster

Thanks for asking, The only thing that is suppose to change is the hill hold assist. I have the front tires off right now as I am painting them with plasti-dip. Will post if I notice any thing else different.

Hello,
So Far after first drive the only thing that has changed is the hill assist is gone.

[FasNuf]

Originally Posted by brick59

As your boost go's up your gap needs to come down I'm at 14 to 15 psi and run mine at .030 with no misfires my tuner said I could go down to .028 to .026 if it starts to misfire but so far no problem's. I think I read somewhere in ttshovel's build thread he's down to to .018 to .020 gap with high 20s to low 30s boost. Hope this helps you guys.

Thanks, I’ll give it a shot. I occasionally get a feeling like the power is breaking up near redline. I logged but never saw what was actually going on. I hate removing my plugs. I always seem to break at least one.

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Thanks, I’ll give it a shot. I occasionally get a feeling like the power is breaking up near redline. I logged but never saw what was actually going on. I hate removing my plugs. I always seem to break at least one.

I have the same problem, it is a tight squeeze, but not as bad as my 1994 Z28 I use to have, you had to do the plugs from under the car...

[fireman1153]

I hate to interrupt such an awesome thread just to ask a question but where did you get your 6 point roll bar from and can the cross bar be removed easily for daily driving? I’m in the market for one since my last power upgrade but don’t want to lose the capability of my kids riding in the back seat when I’m not heading to the track. Thanks man.

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by fireman1153

I hate to interrupt such an awesome thread just to ask a question but where did you get your 6 point roll bar from and can the cross bar be removed easily for daily driving? I’m in the market for one since my last power upgrade but don’t want to lose the capability of my kids riding in the back seat when I’m not heading to the track. Thanks man.

Hello,
You are not interrupting, one of the reasons I posted all of this is to help others. The rollbar is from RPM. It does have removable bars both the diagonal (SCCA) bar and the cross bar (that the belts attach to). I have heard that RPM no longer makes this type of rollbar, but check with them just to be sure. Here is the web address.

http://rpmrollbar.com/

I would still not feel comfortable with anyone sitting in the back seat as they could impact the upper bar in an accident. Also the seat back no longer drops flat as it hits the rear support bars.

I made an error cutting the holes in the side panels, I checked everything 3 times before drilling the holes, but some how managed to have them 1" or so to far fwd.

If you want something removable you can try something like this. It is relatively easy to install and remove for shoulder harnesses. I still use the lap mount attached points as pictured. 2010+ Camaro Brey-Krause Inside Lap Belt Mount Kit and the Brey Krause Model R-9003 Short Harness Mount Kit. I used a harness eye bolt for the anti dive strap, I cannot remember if there is a hole just fwd of the front seat power connection or if I drilled it. It was easy to install a washer (thick fender washer) on both sides (top washer has the sides ground off to fit in the recess) and tighten the nut (nylock nut so it does not vibrate off), found a pic sort of... You can see that the other bars are off when we installed the rollbar.

https://www.braumracing.com/product/...o-harness-bar/

It is what I use to use fire bottle was attached to it, I have the red one that I am selling for $200. I just need to post it on ebay...

Hope this helps, it is just my wife and I so losing the back seat was no big deal...

[fireman1153]

I actually have a harness bar already but have been looking into the roll bar since I’m now making just under 1k rwhp. I really need the roll bar at the track. Thank you for your quick response man and I will check into the options you provided.

[Vicster]

Originally Posted by fireman1153

I actually have a harness bar already but have been looking into the roll bar since I’m now making just under 1k rwhp. I really need the roll bar at the track. Thank you for your quick response man and I will check into the options you provided.

You are welcome, good luck! If you are able to get the rollbar with the removable bar get it with one seat belt mount per seat, the outboard one on the double is really hard to use, that is why I made a connecting bar for them.

[Vicster]

So I broke down and ordered a color HUD, should have done it before I put the interior back in, but came across a great deal. Oh well remove the interior one more time, this time the whole dash has to come out. Read up on it should take 1 day to swap it out...

[fireman1153]

Originally Posted by Vicster

You are welcome, good luck! If you are able to get the rollbar with the removable bar get it with one seat belt mount per seat, the outboard one on the double is really hard to use, that is why I made a connecting bar for them.

Thanks man. I really appreciate your help.