Changing clutch at 70,000 miles, advice. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Conradzz · 02-01-2018, 06:46 AM

So I've had my 2013 1LT manual now for a little over 2 years. Got the car with 16k miles on it and am now sitting a bit over 70k. I notice what I think is my clutch skiing now once the car is warmed up, especially on hot days. The car starts to shake on take off until the clutch is fully engaged. I called a couple shops and am not too happy with the price the quoted me, one shop said $2800, and the dealer said $2300. So I'm looking at kits online and found one on parts geek for around $360. This includes disc/pp, flywheel and slave cylinder. However I'm a little concerned about the quality as I've never used the brand LUK. Has anyone had any luck with them? Part number is W0133-2206845 on part geek. I plan on changing the clutch myself, any other suggestions on parts to change also as well as maybe tips?

Vec · 02-01-2018, 06:55 AM

do you have a lift? or a way to get the car at least 3 feet off the ground? I did the clutch in my 87 Iroc/Z back in the early 90's in my driveway and getting the car up enough to get the trans out was the only real issue.

Conradzz · 02-01-2018, 07:10 AM

Nope, I've got a floor jack and jack stands. I figured I'd buy a trans jack. I changed the clutch in my 97 s10 without one and it was a huge pain. Granted the S10 also sat a lot higher.

Stingr69 · 02-01-2018, 07:35 AM

LUK is a very good clutch brand for a stock replacement. I have one in my '69 Z/28 and was impressed with the quality. The kit for mine also came with an alignment tool that I will use again the next time I need to remove and replace the engine/tranny.

Conradzz · 02-01-2018, 08:13 AM

I should replace all fasteners securing the flywheel and pressure plate also right? I read something along the lines of them only being able to be torqued down once.

frankwjr · 02-01-2018, 08:31 AM

do it right the first time...may not need fly wheel...check for over heating....LUK is the OEM manufacturer of our clutchs...lol..bolts are cheap...

as for doin it your self? depends on how mechanically inclined(skillz) you are...tools...and a helper! good luck and be safe! and kudos fer doin it yer self!

Conradzz · 02-01-2018, 09:29 AM

I'm sure I'm more than capable, I've done a clutch change by myself in the past. Just hoping for some tips from someone who has already done it. I'll replace the flywheel and the bolts with arp bolts. Maybe some other stuff also, I get this vibrating/rattling sound under heavy acceleration. I almost feel like it's coming out of the passenger speaker, but I read something about a heat shield being a common culprit. Any other parts you guys would suggest changing while I have it all out? I'm not even gonna touch the rear main seal unless it's leaking at all. I figure I'll do a brake fluid clean/change. Transmission fluid change. Probably go ahead and replace the brakes too while I have it in the air.

02-01-2018, 06:46 AM	#1
Conradzz Drives: 2013 Chevy Camaro 1LT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Ocala, Florida Posts: 5	Changing clutch at 70,000 miles, advice. So I've had my 2013 1LT manual now for a little over 2 years. Got the car with 16k miles on it and am now sitting a bit over 70k. I notice what I think is my clutch skiing now once the car is warmed up, especially on hot days. The car starts to shake on take off until the clutch is fully engaged. I called a couple shops and am not too happy with the price the quoted me, one shop said $2800, and the dealer said $2300. So I'm looking at kits online and found one on parts geek for around $360. This includes disc/pp, flywheel and slave cylinder. However I'm a little concerned about the quality as I've never used the brand LUK. Has anyone had any luck with them? Part number is W0133-2206845 on part geek. I plan on changing the clutch myself, any other suggestions on parts to change also as well as maybe tips?

02-01-2018, 06:55 AM	#2
Vec Tejas Hillbilly Drives: 15 SS 2SS/RS LS3M6 Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Republic of Texas Posts: 149	do you have a lift? or a way to get the car at least 3 feet off the ground? I did the clutch in my 87 Iroc/Z back in the early 90's in my driveway and getting the car up enough to get the trans out was the only real issue. __________________ Navy Vet

02-01-2018, 08:31 AM	#6
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,446	do it right the first time...may not need fly wheel...check for over heating....LUK is the OEM manufacturer of our clutchs...lol..bolts are cheap... as for doin it your self? depends on how mechanically inclined(skillz) you are...tools...and a helper! good luck and be safe! and kudos fer doin it yer self! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

02-01-2018, 07:10 AM	#3
Conradzz Drives: 2013 Chevy Camaro 1LT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Ocala, Florida Posts: 5	Nope, I've got a floor jack and jack stands. I figured I'd buy a trans jack. I changed the clutch in my 97 s10 without one and it was a huge pain. Granted the S10 also sat a lot higher.

02-01-2018, 07:35 AM	#4
Stingr69 '69 Owned Since '79 Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: LR AR Posts: 1,847 View My Garage	LUK is a very good clutch brand for a stock replacement. I have one in my '69 Z/28 and was impressed with the quality. The kit for mine also came with an alignment tool that I will use again the next time I need to remove and replace the engine/tranny.

02-01-2018, 08:13 AM	#5
Conradzz Drives: 2013 Chevy Camaro 1LT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Ocala, Florida Posts: 5	I should replace all fasteners securing the flywheel and pressure plate also right? I read something along the lines of them only being able to be torqued down once.

02-01-2018, 09:29 AM	#7
Conradzz Drives: 2013 Chevy Camaro 1LT Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Ocala, Florida Posts: 5	I'm sure I'm more than capable, I've done a clutch change by myself in the past. Just hoping for some tips from someone who has already done it. I'll replace the flywheel and the bolts with arp bolts. Maybe some other stuff also, I get this vibrating/rattling sound under heavy acceleration. I almost feel like it's coming out of the passenger speaker, but I read something about a heat shield being a common culprit. Any other parts you guys would suggest changing while I have it all out? I'm not even gonna touch the rear main seal unless it's leaking at all. I figure I'll do a brake fluid clean/change. Transmission fluid change. Probably go ahead and replace the brakes too while I have it in the air.