How To Install Catch Can on a ZL1

[Skylane765]

Here is what I used, you do not need 2 10ft hoses, just one. I had many ask.

[Skylane765]

Pic. Longer runs slow the air oil and cool the air oil vapor. You can all the baffles chambers and steel wool you want, but if that air oil vapor is still hot, the oil will not come out of suspension. A engine has many baffles, chambers and does not trap all the oil out of the vapor.

[zfuzz]

tnspd or sc2150 could you tell me the specs on the mounting bolt that was used to connect it to the frame in tnspd's installation?

[tnspd]

Originally Posted by zfuzz

tnspd or sc2150 could you tell me the specs on the mounting bolt that was used to connect it to the frame in tnspd's installation?

zfuzz,

Not sure of the grade of the bolt. It was the bolt supplied in the ZL1 kit I got from RX.

[zfuzz]

Thanks tnspd,

I was looking for the thread pitch before I headed out to the bolt store :biggrin1:

[SC2150]

Skylane, tell you what. Pick up ($10) a clear glass inline fuel filter from the parts store, install it between the outlet of your can and the intake manifold.....run it a few hundred miles and show us pictures. Then do the same w/a RX can mounted in a hotter area and see zero oil.

This is something all should do to test any can they use.

Your explanation has some merit. but it dosent matter if the lines are 10' long...the CFM of flow measured at each end will be the same. What does matter more is the internal volumne of the can itself. Anything much smaller than 1 qt and the speed of the flow through does not slow enough for the oil to all fall out of suspension, no matter how cool it gets...the condensed droplets that are smal will pull through the can. This is a subject I doubt you will find any that have done as much actual testing on than we have period. We purchase every can we see on the market, test as described with the same car over the same circuit, and measure. Then we cut the cans apart and show in detailed pictures why they do or do not work well. I share all this info and also urge all to test for themselves.

Try it and see.....you will be surprised.

[SC2150]

Here is the link to pictures of the different cans:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=265217&page=4

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Skylane, tell you what. Pick up ($10) a clear glass inline fuel filter from the parts store, install it between the outlet of your can and the intake manifold.....run it a few hundred miles and show us pictures. Then do the same w/a RX can mounted in a hotter area and see zero oil.

This is something all should do to test any can they use.

Your explanation has some merit. but it dosent matter if the lines are 10' long...the CFM of flow measured at each end will be the same. What does matter more is the internal volumne of the can itself. Anything much smaller than 1 qt and the speed of the flow through does not slow enough for the oil to all fall out of suspension, no matter how cool it gets...the condensed droplets that are smal will pull through the can. This is a subject I doubt you will find any that have done as much actual testing on than we have period. We purchase every can we see on the market, test as described with the same car over the same circuit, and measure. Then we cut the cans apart and show in detailed pictures why they do or do not work well. I share all this info and also urge all to test for themselves.

Try it and see.....you will be surprised.

I have done that, but you are going to have to give me a RX can because I do not have one. By the way your can will pass oil also. It is just the way they all work, the colder you get air the less oil it can hold. I have used a clear tube and filter to test on my truck and it passed less oil if mounted with a inlet tube longer also my CC has not passed any oil after 50 miles clean as can be on the filter paper. Baffles are baffles it does not mater how they look to air oil. Slow it down and cool it is the way to get the oil out of the air.
Have a owner put the filter that has a RX CC and they will be surprised.

I like my CC and it works, everybody that sells them say theirs are the best. That's with all mods. I work with this in the Aviation market and we know how it all works.

You can prove it all by just looking at what is used to dry the air before painting from a compressor. They COOL the air to get water out, they do not use some big tank with baffles. The low end shops can not afford the air water separator. ( i install them all the time for the aviation instrument shops) and end up with a HD type unit you see owners using for CCs.

I am not saying your can does not work, it does. What I am saying if you can keep your CC cooler the better it will work. Yes bigger is better, because the can can have more area to cool and condense the air oil.

Not true that if you slow the air down enough that all the oil will condense, it is that you have to lower the temp to get the oil water out of the air. It is Physics that cold air holds less water or oil, hot air will hold more, try it.

[SC2150]

Originally Posted by Skylane765

I have done that, but you are going to have to give me a RX can because I do not have one. By the way your can will pass oil also. It is just the way they all work, the colder you get air the less oil it can hold. I have used a clear tube and filter to test on my truck and it passed less oil if mounted with a inlet tube longer also my CC has not passed any oil after 50 miles clean as can be on the filter paper. Baffles are baffles it does not mater how they look to air oil. Slow it down and cool it is the way to get the oil out of the air.
Have a owner put the filter that has a RX CC and they will be surprised.

I like my CC and it works, everybody that sells them say theirs are the best. That's with all mods. I work with this in the Aviation market and we know how it all works.

You can prove it all by just looking at what is used to dry the air before painting from a compressor. They COOL the air to get water out, they do not use some big tank with baffles. The low end shops can not afford the air water separator. ( i install them all the time for the aviation instrument shops) and end up with a HD type unit you see owners using for CCs.

I am not saying your can does not work, it does. What I am saying if you can keep your CC cooler the better it will work. Yes bigger is better, because the can can have more area to cool and condense the air oil.

Not true that if you slow the air down enough that all the oil will condense, it is that you have to lower the temp to get the oil water out of the air. It is Physics that cold air holds less water or oil, hot air will hold more, try it.

Absolutely does not...several on here have pictures posted showing the same testing we do. The RX can is the only one that cathes all, or nearly all detectable oil period. Several others come close and we endorse them, but your debating a subject that you dont have all the facts on. You claim you can prove it, but your wrong on this....the only more effective separator is the industrial ones from Alfa Laval....and your into $8-20K plus for them. Your applying your logic and ignoring the actual processes and results. Actual testing is the only way to prove or disprove a claim....not assumptions.

I'll get some links posted for you.....this is what I do, and the testing proves it...thats why I post the how to so often....its been confirmed by dozens with the same results. If it didn't, I surely would not be showing buyers how to test to prove it.

[IndeedSS1]

I've done the glass filter test on both the RX and Elite catch cans and the RX, even without the check valve catches it all. Let me see if I have the picture on this computer. Oh and my testing was over thousands of miles.

Found it.

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Absolutely does not...several on here have pictures posted showing the same testing we do. The RX can is the only one that cathes all, or nearly all detectable oil period. Several others come close and we endorse them, but your debating a subject that you dont have all the facts on. You claim you can prove it, but your wrong on this....the only more effective separator is the industrial ones from Alfa Laval....and your into $8-20K plus for them. Your applying your logic and ignoring the actual processes and results. Actual testing is the only way to prove or disprove a claim....not assumptions.

I'll get some links posted for you.....this is what I do, and the testing proves it...thats why I post the how to so often....its been confirmed by dozens with the same results. If it didn't, I surely would not be showing buyers how to test to prove it.

You are the one assuming, I am not saying your can does not work, I am saying my can does also and I like the one I have because I can open it and I like the looks better, also I did not want a dirty tube dripping oil after draining. So you can say all you want, I tested my can and it works, why do you want waist my time arguing about what I have? You again are assuming I did not do testing! Wrong I have and I do not need to prove to you anything, all CC work, the colder you get the air oil the better they work. I do not sell CC so I have nothing to prove. I also will not own anything I can not take apart.

You are knocking other CC, I am not knocking yours or any other.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condensation

How can you say that hot air can not hold more water? It does, oil the same way. That how the oil gets in the air of the crank case to begin with.

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

I've done the glass filter test on both the RX and Elite catch cans and the RX, even without the check valve catches it all. Let me see if I have the picture on this computer. Oh and my testing was over thousands of miles.

Found it.

I did the clear tube test on my truck, looked the same way. It has 170k miles on it. Try the test in a cooler place and see that it will work better.

[Skylane765]

Here's the fitting the other poster wanted, but add one more NPT 90 part number 220651B

[SC2150]

Sky, you have not done the test and I endorse the Elite as one of the few that catch nearly all....in fact my endorsment of the few actaully good cans probably sells just as many of the competitors as ours....but there is no assumption. We have been testing cans for the past 9 years and making the data available for all......so you can live in your world thinking your catching as much, but NO can catches all like the RX can. Is a can that catches 90% just as good? Yes in many applications or I would not endorse these others as follows:

Saiku Micchi (just under the RX)
Elite & AMW (both work equally as good and are excellent designs and right up there in the top)

And any thing else is below all of these substantially....and you can test (by you, i mean anyone with any catchcan) to see for themselves.

And even further, when contacted by owners of an Elite or other great can and asked if they should swap out for a RX can, unless it is a turbo or centri application needing a dual valve for constant crankcase evacuation, I always tell them to keep the good can they have (maybe some will chime in here to verify this)....something no others I endorse do in reciprocation.

Anyone is free to choose what they wish, and they way they drain them is a valid reason...but do NOT claim our can does not separate and catch all where no other can does (for under $1000) as that is pure fiction....and enough do these tests I encourage to see first hand....something you just want to argue about.

So I respect your choice...its a free world, and the cans I endorse are excellent no matter if it cost me sales to do so...I don't BS and go by assumptions or bashing just to bash...I give actual data and how to verify it.