11-12-2015, 08:48 AM | #211 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,053
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Scope Cam found exact Oil Cooler Leak Location on my Camaro SS (posting here from my new thread):
The only way to see the exact point where the Oil Cooler is leaking was using Scope Cam with 45 degree viewer attachment. It is likely the location where many others are noticing a leak around the cooler as well. Sometimes the dealer replaces gaskets or O-rings and then the owner reports the problem was not fixed. In that case it may be because the leak is actually occurring in the oil cooler "end cap that looks like a freeze plug" right near the top of the cooler adjacent to where the inlet/outlet fitting attaches to the oil pan. The location makes it appear like it is a gasket or oil pan leak. But using the scope with the angle fitting I was able to see it was really the end cap fitting (which is a pressed-in cap). The following pictures show location. First is a picture showing areas where oil drips are noticed. These are the most common points I've seen other threads report oil dripping - near blue arrows. The next picture shows a blue arrow at the exact point where the end-cap that looks like a freeze plug is pressed into the oil cooler. It is leaking at the margin of the end cap in one location. This picture is one I stole from the internet and shows a good view of the pan with oil cooler attached that has been removed from the engine. Blue arrow at top is where the leak occurs: This next picture was taken off the screen of my scope cam using my camera phone - that is why pixels show up. The shot shows the end cap margin where the oil leak/seepage is occurring. Here is another view of the leaking end cap: Before I took the pictures I cleaned up this area. Then let the car run for a few minutes and I could see the oil seepage was starting to flow out from the margin of the end cap again. As mentioned, this end cap is completely hidden and can only be viewed with scope with angle attachment or by removing the oil cooler. It faces toward the back of the car toward the bell housing/block area and very little clearance at that spot. Notice that the end cap is almost at the same level as the pan gasket, and oil drips look like it is coming from the gasket or where the oil cooler attaches to the pan. But I checked all those locations and only sign of oil leak is right at the end cap on my car. It looks like there may be some kind of sealer that is in the margin which the factory applies before pressing in the end-cap ... difficult to say if there is sealer or it is a dry fit. I'm guessing there are a huge number leaking at this same location. From what I see the only remedy is a new oil cooler or it needs an Oil Catch Can!!! There are actually two components to the assembly, the cooler itself which is double triangle shaped housing (rhombus) which bolts to the platform the oil and water lines flow through -- the combined assembly is fastened to the side of the oil pan with many bolts. Here is a view of the cooler from another angle that I stole from internet, this shows the radiator coolant lines adjacent to the double-triangle Rhombus. Oil connection input/output fitting on far left. Radiator coolant lines and fittings on the right. This oil leak started at 7,000 miles (or maybe day1 but that is when I first noticed), well within warranty. Good thing because the complete assembly costs hundreds of dollars. For diagnosis of a mystery oil leak this is a prime location to check FIRST. My scope worked perfect since it has a built in LED light in the cam wand; it is fairly dark in this hidden area of the engine bay. Wish the Chevy engineers would look at this, needs a redesign to come up with a better way to close off the end-cap to avoid leaks (maybe a threaded plug would be a good approach). Ron Last edited by ron123; 11-12-2015 at 08:59 AM. |
11-12-2015, 09:59 AM | #212 |
Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 4,565
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I'd probably try and take some epoxy to the end before tearing everything apart or replacing a bunch of parts.
But if you do want to replace stuff: Best I can find, here's the current full GM retail prices for some of that stuff. 15203899 oil cooler gasket...$15.20 12607900 oil cooler heat exchanger plates ...$325.88 11562125 the infamous PLUG...$8.86 And the various bolts are around 9 bucks each!!! Or you can get the entire shebang without the hoses: 12606576 oil cooler baseplate, gasket, the gooseneck/plug, bolts, hose fittings, heat exchanger. Everything but the coolant hoses...$435.54 (Amazon.com sells them for $308)
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2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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11-12-2015, 06:37 PM | #213 | |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,053
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Quote:
Epoxy I don't think is going to work with pressures involved in that area (probably up to 80 psi), and would need to be absolutely oil free when repairing. Plus, I would void the Oil Cooler warranty if my repair failed to fix the leak. I might pick up a cap for spare in the future. Like to always do my own repairs but the car is under warranty ... if the bore hole the end-cap is pushed in to is defective and I try to repair the oil cooler myself, I'll also be out hundreds of dollars. Probably leaning toward letting the Chevy dealer replace the cooler assembly. Sure hope Chevy has come up with a better way to seal off the end-cap; it should really have been made with a threaded cap instead of a pressed in freeze plug style end-cap (better to use the threaded type plugs that are on trans and differential with factory sealer on them). As a guess it looks like it would take under an hour to swap out the cooler. . Update: decided to take it in to Chevy for warranty replacement of cooler 11/23/15, gave them part# hopefully will be in stock. Ron Last edited by ron123; 11-14-2015 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Service under warranty |
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05-16-2016, 10:54 PM | #214 | |
Drives: 13' 1LE Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,642
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Quote:
I have this same exact problem! Dont know what to do to seal this..
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13' 1LE
Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me. |
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05-17-2016, 12:53 PM | #215 | |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,053
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Quote:
The bolts are only threaded in to aluminum so should use great care. Ron
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2014 2SS/RS, Z28 CAI and High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 5.1:1 Ratio Short-Throw Shifter, ZL1 Pedals, ZL1 splash guards, NPP Dual-mode quad tip exhaust, Z28 strut tower brace, Camaro LED Cup-holders with footwell Lighting option, Leather visors, and Leather E-brake boot. Chevy dealer sponsored 67 retro SS nose stripe package.
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03-21-2017, 02:15 PM | #216 | |
Drives: 2010 IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brampton, Ontario
Posts: 351
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Quote:
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03-21-2017, 03:54 PM | #217 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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Quote:
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Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
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03-24-2017, 03:07 PM | #218 | |
Drives: 2010 IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brampton, Ontario
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Quote:
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
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03-29-2017, 09:27 PM | #219 | |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,053
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Quote:
One on each side at this blue arrow. Ron
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2014 2SS/RS, Z28 CAI and High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 5.1:1 Ratio Short-Throw Shifter, ZL1 Pedals, ZL1 splash guards, NPP Dual-mode quad tip exhaust, Z28 strut tower brace, Camaro LED Cup-holders with footwell Lighting option, Leather visors, and Leather E-brake boot. Chevy dealer sponsored 67 retro SS nose stripe package.
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03-30-2017, 06:31 PM | #220 |
Drives: 2010 SSII w RS & Sunroof Yellow Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: West Suburbs of Chicago, in a Courthouse Somewhere
Posts: 953
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Hey it real simple , Its a 2 dollar part. Its the oval gasket Had mine replaced and it is a 20 minute job no biggie. No more problems after it was replaced . And tell them to tighten the dang screws on the new gasket. even if you dont have a warranty, there was a TSB on the gasket and any dealer worth anything should be able to push it through. Why you are there ask them to buy a second gasket and put it on your garage shelf !
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04-05-2017, 01:38 PM | #221 | |
Drives: 2010 IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Brampton, Ontario
Posts: 351
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Quote:
Now I'm older and wiser, just last week I took it to a different dealer and they told me, ya you have a leak from your oil pan and oil cooler and it will cost 1500 to repair. 2 invoices I have from 2014 state that the "oil leak" around the pan is just sweat and completely normal. Never knew a pan could sweat so much to drop oil on my garage floor. I should have pressed the issue in 2015 but what do I know, I'm not a mechanic.
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05-27-2018, 06:19 PM | #222 | |
2010RS/SS RUMBLEBEE
Drives: Drives a 2010 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Great White North*****
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What is the TSB Number,I had the gasket replaced on my 2010SS when it leaked at 5000k,it has 28000k and it's leaking again.I know it's of warranty now ,but what's the cost to have this gasket replaced at the dealer or tackle it myself.Hopefully the gasket is of better quality today than the original one was.
Can anyone tell me if it's just the gasket ,because I read where a member said a plug that's hidden that might leak also. Thanks Quote:
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