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Old 02-19-2010, 02:24 PM   #15
Junkman2008
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Originally Posted by alex33x View Post
This is pretty good information right here, I have to get me a porter cable 7324. lol
It makes paint correction a breeze compared to trying to do it by hand. You see the before pictures. There should not be one new Camaro on this planet in that condition so if I can make that hood shine, your cars would be a cake walk. By the way, that half of the hood is a mess again!
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:25 PM   #16
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:16 PM   #17
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very nice video's i'll be picking up some sort of polisher this spring
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:39 PM   #18
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Great videos Junkman!! I think i spent a long time watching all your videos on youtube. Your the man!
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:16 AM   #19
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Great videos Junkman!! I think i spent a long time watching all your videos on youtube. Your the man!
That's a lot of video watchin'!
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Old 02-24-2010, 06:53 PM   #20
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Junkman

I watched the 10 video's and the waterless wash video's. First let me say Thank You. These are so helpful and informative. I see why I have "Spider webs" in my paint, from improper "Dusting". I have 4 questions for you.

1st Question is this, Since my car is new only 4 k miles since last July, Garage kept and my scratches are simliar to the ones you had on improper dusting of the Vette. Would you suggest the white pad and polish first to try and get them out, of course after a wash?

2nd Question I have a 2500 HD 4x4, real bad paint probably not as bad as the Meano, but pretty rough Should I just go to the Orange pad first.

3rd How many times can you do the swirl removal technique before the clear is gone?

Lastly, after the swirls are gone and the paint is right, if you use these techniques on the video's, will you have to do the swirl removel again. I guess what I am asking is with the proper wash, dust, rinse, polish, drying techniques and the right equipment, should this be a problem again. And do you ever have to strip you car down and start fresh from wax/polish build-up?

Thanks so much.
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Dr Jekel View Post
Junkman

I watched the 10 video's and the waterless wash video's. First let me say Thank You. These are so helpful and informative. I see why I have "Spider webs" in my paint, from improper "Dusting". I have 4 questions for you.

1st Question is this, Since my car is new only 4 k miles since last July, Garage kept and my scratches are simliar to the ones you had on improper dusting of the Vette. Would you suggest the white pad and polish first to try and get them out, of course after a wash?

2nd Question I have a 2500 HD 4x4, real bad paint probably not as bad as the Meano, but pretty rough Should I just go to the Orange pad first.

3rd How many times can you do the swirl removal technique before the clear is gone?

Lastly, after the swirls are gone and the paint is right, if you use these techniques on the video's, will you have to do the swirl removel again. I guess what I am asking is with the proper wash, dust, rinse, polish, drying techniques and the right equipment, should this be a problem again. And do you ever have to strip you car down and start fresh from wax/polish build-up?

Thanks so much.
Very good questions Dr. Jekel!

1. Since my car is new only 4 k miles since last July, Garage kept and my scratches are simliar to the ones you had on improper dusting of the Vette. Would you suggest the white pad and polish first to try and get them out, of course after a wash?

Yes! There is nothing wrong with trying the least aggressive method first. If you need to increase, no problem.

2. I have a 2500 HD 4x4, real bad paint probably not as bad as the Meano, but pretty rough Should I just go to the Orange pad first?

I highly recommend starting with the orange pad. There's a new thread that I have posted which talks about the order of product use and what each product does. You can check it out here.

3. How many times can you do the swirl removal technique before the clear is gone?

This is a very good question. The answer has A LOT of variables. If you are a novice and are using a rotary polisher like the Makita 9227C, then your clear coat could be wiped out in one pass! A machine like that takes a lot of experience to master... a lot of experience.

If you are a novice and you decide to use something like the Flex 3401 orbital with an aggressive polish like Meguiar's Heavy Cut Cleaner, you could quickly wipe out the edge on a panel.

If you pick up a PC-7424 with some foam pads and start using a product like Adam's or Zaino, you ain't going to be removing anything quick. As a matter of fact, you would really have to be extremely careless or reckless in order to wipe out the clear coat on your car with those products. The equipment and products that you see me use in the videos posted here are geared to the novice detailer. If you do as I do in my videos, you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

Correcting the paint with the products and tools you see me using takes a lot of time because they are not very aggressive measures. This is the safety factor built into what you see me do. I can, and do use more aggressive measures but you won't see me posting that stuff here. That kind of work is for experienced detailers. What you trade in the name of time will sacrifice safety. Thus what I show you will take time, but will be one of the most safest way to do paint correction. Thus, how many times you can do this is determined by the products and tools you decide to use.

4, After the swirls are gone and the paint is right, if you use these techniques on the video's, will you have to do the swirl removel again. I guess what I am asking is with the proper wash, dust, rinse, polish, drying techniques and the right equipment, should this be a problem again. And do you ever have to strip you car down and start fresh from wax/polish build-up?

If you use the preventive scratch producing methods that I describe in my videos, you will create little to no damage to your paint. Once you have corrected your paint with the Swirl & Haze Remover/orange pad combination, you should NEVER have to get that aggressive with your paint again. The only thing that you may have to do is hit a couple of spots with the Fine Machine Polish/white pad combination, and then reapply your wax.

I personally have never had a wax build up situation so I haven't had to strip everything away. Even if you did that, you should not have to do any heavy scratch removal. Maybe a touch with the Fine Machine Polish but that is it. The key is to never recreate the damage that caused you to have to do all this work in the first place. That can be avoided by following the preventive measures in my videos. Everything is critical to the process from the foam gun to the two bucket wash. When you truly understand each component that I use and why I use it, then you will truly understand why each tool is critical to you keeping your paint looking flawless.
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:58 PM   #22
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:01 PM   #23
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:23 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Very good questions Dr. Jekel!

1. Since my car is new only 4 k miles since last July, Garage kept and my scratches are simliar to the ones you had on improper dusting of the Vette. Would you suggest the white pad and polish first to try and get them out, of course after a wash?

Yes! There is nothing wrong with trying the least aggressive method first. If you need to increase, no problem.

2. I have a 2500 HD 4x4, real bad paint probably not as bad as the Meano, but pretty rough Should I just go to the Orange pad first?

I highly recommend starting with the orange pad. There's a new thread that I have posted which talks about the order of product use and what each product does. You can check it out here.

3. How many times can you do the swirl removal technique before the clear is gone?

This is a very good question. The answer has A LOT of variables. If you are a novice and are using a rotary polisher like the Makita 9227C, then your clear coat could be wiped out in one pass! A machine like that takes a lot of experience to master... a lot of experience.

If you are a novice and you decide to use something like the Flex 3401 orbital with an aggressive polish like Meguiar's Heavy Cut Cleaner, you could quickly wipe out the edge on a panel.

If you pick up a PC-7424 with some foam pads and start using a product like Adam's or Zaino, you ain't going to be removing anything quick. As a matter of fact, you would really have to be extremely careless or reckless in order to wipe out the clear coat on your car with those products. The equipment and products that you see me use in the videos posted here are geared to the novice detailer. If you do as I do in my videos, you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

Correcting the paint with the products and tools you see me using takes a lot of time because they are not very aggressive measures. This is the safety factor built into what you see me do. I can, and do use more aggressive measures but you won't see me posting that stuff here. That kind of work is for experienced detailers. What you trade in the name of time will sacrifice safety. Thus what I show you will take time, but will be one of the most safest way to do paint correction. Thus, how many times you can do this is determined by the products and tools you decide to use.

4, After the swirls are gone and the paint is right, if you use these techniques on the video's, will you have to do the swirl removel again. I guess what I am asking is with the proper wash, dust, rinse, polish, drying techniques and the right equipment, should this be a problem again. And do you ever have to strip you car down and start fresh from wax/polish build-up?

If you use the preventive scratch producing methods that I describe in my videos, you will create little to no damage to your paint. Once you have corrected your paint with the Swirl & Haze Remover/orange pad combination, you should NEVER have to get that aggressive with your paint again. The only thing that you may have to do is hit a couple of spots with the Fine Machine Polish/white pad combination, and then reapply your wax.

I personally have never had a wax build up situation so I haven't had to strip everything away. Even if you did that, you should not have to do any heavy scratch removal. Maybe a touch with the Fine Machine Polish but that is it. The key is to never recreate the damage that caused you to have to do all this work in the first place. That can be avoided by following the preventive measures in my videos. Everything is critical to the process from the foam gun to the two bucket wash. When you truly understand each component that I use and why I use it, then you will truly understand why each tool is critical to you keeping your paint looking flawless.



Junkman,

Thanks So Much for the information, I really do appreciate it alot.
I looked real hard at my Camaro last night, and the light did not lie. I did see the fine scratches in my paint, so I will use the Fine Machine Polish first and see how that works.

My truck on the other hand is a different story, kinda like the Meano, no beading action at all, and rough to the touch, just figured that it had to be this way since my truck gets muddy alot, not from off roading but since it has big wheels and tires, I get a lot of slinging action down the sides. This was the reason I asked about the clearcoat and not re-damaging the paint, once again I had improper technique. Will defintely use the orange pad and swirls removal.

It is comforting to know that these products are not really aggressive and intended for the novice like myself, as I am sure that most on here are, just didn't want to Mess up my paint and have to have it re-painted. I just wished I had known this stuff a long time ago, would have saved me alot of time and money.


Like most here didn't really have a clue till I watched the video's, Thanks So much for the great information. I only have 3 other questions, I guess pretty simple ones.



1. I did not see a video of the drying technique, is there one?


2. As with most people I pressume you get things on your paint such as road tar, tree sap, and things of this nature. Is there a product or technique that needs to be used to remove this type of stuff?

3. Lastly and one of my biggest besides the paint is the glass, nothing bothers me more than cleaning your ride and then going for a ride in the evening time and you see what a bad job that has been done when the glare from another vehicle gets either behind you or from oncoming traffic, Any solutions?


Once again Thanks So Much for passing on your knowledge, one funny tidbit. My son who is 14 and starting to think about cars etc.. watched the video's with me last night and now understands the process of keeping a vehicle "clean" and of course can't wait till we get our new products in so that we can use them.

Semper Fi, John
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:41 AM   #25
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OK Junkman, I forgot a couple of other questions, I forgot to ask what is the techniques when doing concave, convex and edges of body panels.

And Lastly how do you maintain your pads, the white black and orange, plus your rags?


Thanks,

John
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:24 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dr Jekel View Post
OK Junkman, I forgot a couple of other questions, I forgot to ask what is the techniques when doing concave, convex and edges of body panels.
Having read more I feel more comfortable looking toward the PC as I asked in another thread about doing this by hand. However the quote above is something I am curious about too!

Cheers
K
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Jekel View Post
Junkman,

Thanks So Much for the information, I really do appreciate it alot.
I looked real hard at my Camaro last night, and the light did not lie. I did see the fine scratches in my paint, so I will use the Fine Machine Polish first and see how that works.

My truck on the other hand is a different story, kinda like the Meano, no beading action at all, and rough to the touch, just figured that it had to be this way since my truck gets muddy alot, not from off roading but since it has big wheels and tires, I get a lot of slinging action down the sides. This was the reason I asked about the clearcoat and not re-damaging the paint, once again I had improper technique. Will defintely use the orange pad and swirls removal.

It is comforting to know that these products are not really aggressive and intended for the novice like myself, as I am sure that most on here are, just didn't want to Mess up my paint and have to have it re-painted. I just wished I had known this stuff a long time ago, would have saved me alot of time and money.


Like most here didn't really have a clue till I watched the video's, Thanks So much for the great information. I only have 3 other questions, I guess pretty simple ones.



1. I did not see a video of the drying technique, is there one?


2. As with most people I pressume you get things on your paint such as road tar, tree sap, and things of this nature. Is there a product or technique that needs to be used to remove this type of stuff?

3. Lastly and one of my biggest besides the paint is the glass, nothing bothers me more than cleaning your ride and then going for a ride in the evening time and you see what a bad job that has been done when the glare from another vehicle gets either behind you or from oncoming traffic, Any solutions?


Once again Thanks So Much for passing on your knowledge, one funny tidbit. My son who is 14 and starting to think about cars etc.. watched the video's with me last night and now understands the process of keeping a vehicle "clean" and of course can't wait till we get our new products in so that we can use them.

Semper Fi, John
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Jekel View Post
OK Junkman, I forgot a couple of other questions, I forgot to ask what is the techniques when doing concave, convex and edges of body panels.

And Lastly how do you maintain your pads, the white black and orange, plus your rags?


Thanks,

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moriartii View Post
Having read more I feel more comfortable looking toward the PC as I asked in another thread about doing this by hand. However the quote above is something I am curious about too!

Cheers
K
Okay boys and girls, here we go again!

1. I did not see a video of the drying technique, is there one?

Tes there is. After I do my final rinse, I remove my nozzle and turn the water down low. I then start at the top of the car and flow the water from top to bottom. This causes all the tiny drops of water to pool and run off the car in gobs. Once I complete that, I get out my electric leaf blower and blow the rest of the car dry. I finish it off with a touch here and there with a microfiber towel if necessary.

The rule of thumb here is, "the less you touch the paint, the less opportunity there is for you to scratch the paint."

2. As with most people I pressume you get things on your paint such as road tar, tree sap, and things of this nature. Is there a product or technique that needs to be used to remove this type of stuff?

Yes, clay bar, clay bar. clay bar!

3. Lastly and one of my biggest besides the paint is the glass, nothing bothers me more than cleaning your ride and then going for a ride in the evening time and you see what a bad job that has been done when the glare from another vehicle gets either behind you or from oncoming traffic, Any solutions?

I will need to do video on this also as there is a trick to it. You'll have to stay tuned!


Once again Thanks So Much for passing on your knowledge, one funny tidbit. My son who is 14 and starting to think about cars etc.. watched the video's with me last night and now understands the process of keeping a vehicle "clean" and of course can't wait till we get our new products in so that we can use them.


My little buddy hung out with me for a weekend on the road where I did a few seminars of detailing. Check him out!

Obike Explains the Process!

I forgot to ask what is the techniques when doing concave, convex and edges of body panels.

And lastly, how do you maintain your pads, the white black and orange, plus your rags?


Those are two videos that I am in the process of making. I have already uploaded my pad washing technique to You Tube and I'll be posting that thread here tonight. Look for it in the morning or really late tonight.
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:48 PM   #28
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Adam's is good for the matte stripes too?
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