Vararam no-tune versus tune-only pics?

[nighttowl]

here is an email i recoeved from vararam on this same subject not too long ago.


(me)
I got the rear section, and got my car dynoed. ended up with 462 rear wheel hp.



quick question. the differences between the tune and no tune model, what is it?



the one I received (which was supposed to be a tune rear section) was just very slightly larger than what I had, I could barely tell that they were any different from each other.



I just want to make sure I got what I ordered.







also, the guy who dyno tuned my car said there was something funny happening with the maf output, he concluded it was something weird with the intake. he just did the best he could, and said it would not be the end of the world. it was an irregular dip around 7000 hz, about 600 hz in length. he just smoothed it in best he could.







(vararam)
The difference is +2mm overall and the primary air horn is a higher RPM design . Your HZ should have dropped by about 200HZ requiring a retune and your AFR would have also changed. The altered air horn and larger housing completely change the shape of the MAF curve. What he saw is what is normally present on an LS-3 in the upper Torque curve. You will only see it on an intake that is opened up all the way with zero restriction for the HP being generated. If there is any restriction at all ,the velocity will rise smoothing it out but ultimately costing you power. At your HP level, you are just between needing a tune model and getting away with a no tune version. 435 Rear Wheel hp is our No Tune cut off, but of course, dyno's do vary as do cars etc..

VR Tech, if you have any questions at all just give us a call 713 477 8100

[Nitroman28]

Originally Posted by nighttowl

here is an email i recoeved from vararam on this same subject not too long ago.


(me)
I got the rear section, and got my car dynoed. ended up with 462 rear wheel hp.



quick question. the differences between the tune and no tune model, what is it?



the one I received (which was supposed to be a tune rear section) was just very slightly larger than what I had, I could barely tell that they were any different from each other.



I just want to make sure I got what I ordered.







also, the guy who dyno tuned my car said there was something funny happening with the maf output, he concluded it was something weird with the intake. he just did the best he could, and said it would not be the end of the world. it was an irregular dip around 7000 hz, about 600 hz in length. he just smoothed it in best he could.







(vararam)
The difference is +2mm overall and the primary air horn is a higher RPM design . Your HZ should have dropped by about 200HZ requiring a retune and your AFR would have also changed. The altered air horn and larger housing completely change the shape of the MAF curve. What he saw is what is normally present on an LS-3 in the upper Torque curve. You will only see it on an intake that is opened up all the way with zero restriction for the HP being generated. If there is any restriction at all ,the velocity will rise smoothing it out but ultimately costing you power. At your HP level, you are just between needing a tune model and getting away with a no tune version. 435 Rear Wheel hp is our No Tune cut off, but of course, dyno's do vary as do cars etc..

VR Tech, if you have any questions at all just give us a call 713 477 8100

Did you dyno with each of them on the car?

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by nighttowl

here is an email i recoeved from vararam on this same subject not too long ago.


(me)
I got the rear section, and got my car dynoed. ended up with 462 rear wheel hp.



quick question. the differences between the tune and no tune model, what is it?



the one I received (which was supposed to be a tune rear section) was just very slightly larger than what I had, I could barely tell that they were any different from each other.



I just want to make sure I got what I ordered.







also, the guy who dyno tuned my car said there was something funny happening with the maf output, he concluded it was something weird with the intake. he just did the best he could, and said it would not be the end of the world. it was an irregular dip around 7000 hz, about 600 hz in length. he just smoothed it in best he could.







(vararam)
The difference is +2mm overall and the primary air horn is a higher RPM design . Your HZ should have dropped by about 200HZ requiring a retune and your AFR would have also changed. The altered air horn and larger housing completely change the shape of the MAF curve. What he saw is what is normally present on an LS-3 in the upper Torque curve. You will only see it on an intake that is opened up all the way with zero restriction for the HP being generated. If there is any restriction at all ,the velocity will rise smoothing it out but ultimately costing you power. At your HP level, you are just between needing a tune model and getting away with a no tune version. 435 Rear Wheel hp is our No Tune cut off, but of course, dyno's do vary as do cars etc..

VR Tech, if you have any questions at all just give us a call 713 477 8100

I appreciate you adding that to the thread, as it is very appropriate

[nighttowl]

only the tune model was dynoed.

[IndeedSS1]

Putting this in this thread so I don't lose or forget the information.

Today 76 degrees with no-tune and wedge LTFTs

Idle -1.5
Cruise -2.3
WOT -3.9

Time to throw on the tune version and run it a minimum of 100 miles.

[Nitroman28]

Originally Posted by nighttowl

only the tune model was dynoed.

Been nice to see if the un tuned pulled the same numbers.

[Higgs Boson]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

Putting this in this thread so I don't lose or forget the information.

Today 76 degrees with no-tune and wedge LTFTs

Idle -1.5
Cruise -2.3
WOT -3.9

Time to throw on the tune version and run it a minimum of 100 miles.

What is WOT -3.9? There are no trims at WOT. Is it where LTFT stopped switching right when you went WOT or?

You have to reset your trims each time you log.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by Higgs Boson

What is WOT -3.9? There are no trims at WOT. Is it where LTFT stopped switching right when you went WOT or?

You have to reset your trims each time you log.

Right that is last input. It is there for reference only since I don't have a wideband hooked up.

No resetting of the trims. This is at least 300 miles since the wedge/no-tune VR combo. By the end of this week I'll have another 300+ miles. There is no point in resetting as they will relearn anyway.

I did compare the tune to no-tune tail sections and I do see some of the differences.

The lip around the entry to the MAF screen is indeed more pronounced on the no-tune version. While the O.D. of each neck is identical in size and shape, the no-tune has a thinner gauge aluminum ring inserted. The curves inside the horn is more defined in the no-tune.

Will report back next week, but after the initial 40 miles or so I don't see much need to go from one to the other.

[RyanBoles]

Just found this thread and the CAI, can someone tell me if theses CAI are better than the reg K&N and AirRaid etc? Whats the difference between the two options (tune no Tune). And can someone explain the air meter deal?

[TRIPWIRE]

Originally Posted by RyanBoles

Just found this thread and the CAI, can someone tell me if theses CAI are better than the reg K&N and AirRaid etc? Whats the difference between the two options (tune no Tune). And can someone explain the air meter deal?

i had the k&n typhoon and i switched to the vararam and i dynoed both i put down 354 with the k&n and put down 357 with the vararam even after getting the car retuned so i only saw a 3 horsepower difference which doesnt seem like its worth it too me for the price difference

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by RyanBoles

Just found this thread and the CAI, can someone tell me if theses CAI are better than the reg K&N and AirRaid etc? Whats the difference between the two options (tune no Tune). And can someone explain the air meter deal?

Hate to thread jack my own thread

Tune, you need a tune for it to run it but supposedly it will support higher HP builds. No-tune, you can run it on the stock tune.

I've not run the two other intakes, but have ran the CAI and Halltech (same style as the two you mentioned). I could care less about dyno numbers so for me it's is all about street performance. Hands down the best street performer especially during the extreme heat this summer was Vararam. By design you can see how short the airflow path is. This translates into throttle response. Plus the Vararam enclosure does not get hot like the tubes do on other intakes.

You can go to Vararam's website and read about the MAF sensor (air meter). I think it is also on horsepowerjunkies.com as well. Readers Digest version. If you MAF sensor has only a letter (K) then it is a weak sensor a letter and number(s) is a strong one (K9 or K21). Because of the short airflow path of the Vararam and the location of the MAF sensor, a strong sensor is recommended.

[Higgs Boson]

Originally Posted by TRIPWIRE

i had the k&n typhoon and i switched to the vararam and i dynoed both i put down 354 with the k&n and put down 357 with the vararam even after getting the car retuned so i only saw a 3 horsepower difference which doesnt seem like its worth it too me for the price difference

Your car isn't moving on a dyno. The vararam works best when moving. If you picked up three standing still, just think of the difference when rolling.

[IndeedSS1]

As expected the biggest fueling difference between the No-tune and Tune version is at idle. Looking at fuel trims alone idle is a lot more rich going from no-tune to tune but everywhere else appears to be about the same.

[Higgs Boson]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

As expected the biggest fueling difference between the No-tune and Tune version is at idle. Looking at fuel trims alone idle is a lot more rich going from no-tune to tune but everywhere else appears to be about the same.

Good old MAF low flow capabilities.....I've long wished HPT could enable SD only (instead of blend) under, say 1500, then blend to 3000, then MAF only to redline.