09-28-2012, 12:14 PM | #323 |
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I think I messed up my tach needle :(
I used this bent fork technique that someone showed in another thread, when I pried up on the needle the face of the needle came up but the back piece was still on the gauge so I pried that off also So my problem is I can't get it to snap back in, I see clips for it to be held in by but get get them to click in Any suggestions? |
09-28-2012, 12:35 PM | #324 |
Texas Camaros
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Can you post any pics of it?
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09-28-2012, 01:12 PM | #325 |
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09-28-2012, 01:45 PM | #326 |
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The needles in the '10-'11 gauges are different than mine so I don't know if I could help you out with that one.
Well creektrack posted the stock LED close-up so that pretty much covers it, but my pic of the already swapped LED's in that location is still on my SD card which is in the camera that my friend is borrowing. Bah.
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09-28-2012, 02:44 PM | #327 | |
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ok i took 4 pics 1st one is my speedo needle so you can see how its supposed to be sitting
2nd is the tach needle showing both pieces, notice on the back piece the semi circles they are notches that lock inside the needle 3rd i tried just pushing straight down it wont clip in 4th i slid it in then tried to push down but the front clips wont clip in Quote:
its all good man thanks i do appreciate all the help everyone has given |
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09-28-2012, 09:12 PM | #328 |
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Never mind I got it, I slid it in like the 4th pic then used my nail on the back to hold the clips from popping out and used a tiny flat head screwdriver to push the other side down and it clipped right in
Will post pics of my final product tomorrow Thanks to all you guys/gals that have helped I have nothing but for all of you |
09-28-2012, 09:12 PM | #329 | |
Quote:
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09-28-2012, 09:14 PM | #330 |
Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2012
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Yea I was lucky I didn't do that but is was thinking of crazy gluing mine in when I couldn't get it to clip earlier
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09-28-2012, 10:13 PM | #331 |
Texas Camaros
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definitely glad to hear you got it back together!
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09-29-2012, 09:31 AM | #332 |
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Me too!!!!
I don't have a pic of it but on 1 of the lights under the screen when I was unsoldering the 2nd light from the top the piece on the board, the Lil square that the light actually solders to pulled off the board I don't know if I'm lucky or what but I was able to put the square back in the place it came off of and solder the light in and it works Just thought I'd share that incase anyone else has that happen |
09-29-2012, 10:55 AM | #333 |
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just installed everything back changes the entire look of the car
if it wasnt for you guys/gals i would of never thought of doing something like this thanks for being such a help as i did this ill get some night time pics tonight but just wanted to put these up cause just makes the car feel like this is how it should of been from factory |
09-29-2012, 12:47 PM | #334 | |
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Nice, glad it worked out!
Lifting a solder pad isn't all that uncommon. It connects to a trace running underneath the top layer of the board to the point that sends the LED it's power. If the other side of the LED's solder joint is good and the pad is still firmly attached to the board, then I don't think you'll have any problems with it, but it's possible that vibration and/or heat could take it out at some point. If it does, there are fixes or workarounds... I just Googled this for everyone's reference: (Note: that looks like a practice board without any traces, you'll have to make sure the pad has a good solder connection to the trace as well) Last edited by ALLTRBO; 09-29-2012 at 01:06 PM. |
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09-29-2012, 01:22 PM | #335 | |
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Quote:
Great post man appreciate it, I only pulled off on one side and if I understand you correctly I seen the trace your talking about, I just put the pad back in place then soldered both sides like usual Just one question, since I only messed up 1 side I'm still ok cause the other is still good? Or will the heat affect the bad one and cut off power to that LED? |
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09-29-2012, 02:14 PM | #336 |
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Yeah, I'm saying that it will probably be okay because the good side, providing it's firmly attached, should be strong enough to give the whole thing mechanical strength so it shouldn't move (I'm basing that on my personal experimenting with similar tiny components and bad boards... YMMV)
There's a very small chance that thermal cycling, vibration, shocks, or any combination thereof could weaken and pull the attached pad because the LED is exerting more strain on it. It would then eventually lose connection to one or both traces because of constant movement. If either pad loses connection to its trace then the LED won't get power. Like I said, though, I wouldn't worry about it. That's more of an issue with space-flight components while they're taking a violent rocket ride into space. At least that's what QA likes to tell me, anyway. |
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